Car Heaters

The thermostat in your car controls the temperature of the fluid entering the heater core. Thermostats have different temperature setting i.e. 195,180 etc. When the rated temperature is approached, the thermostat starts to open up, the fluid path is changed and the temperature of the fluid is held at the rated temperature. If the thermostat opens too soon, or fails to close the heater core will not reach max temperature, and the air from the heater air will be warm,not hot. Also the mechanism that opens the duct door may not work,and the same problem will occur. Also, your core may have a fluid control lever which may not work.

Flush,Clean or change the heater core u need to replace engine thermostat

Apparently not. He is asking about the heater core. It is a 10 hour job involving removing the dash. I think they built the car around the heater core. ugh.

Check the following...........

1. A/C heater control doors.

2. A/C heater controller.

3. Trash in the heater box.

4. Partly clogged up heater core.

I had the same problem. The answer to your problem is simple. You have an air pocket in your cooling system. Simple fix - take the radiator cap off of the radiator, turn the vehicle on and let it run for 1hr to remove the air from the system. Also, make sure your overflow container is atleast at the minimum level. Answer If your certain you have all of the air out of the cooling system the blend door inside the heater box may be stuck open.

Most water heaters have what is called a "sacrafical annode." This is fitted to save the heater from "agressive" water, hence the use of the word sacrafical. The Annode is sacraficed to save the heating vessel. If there is even a tiny amount of hydrogen sulphide (H2s) present in the water, the annode rod will make the problem worse and heated water will smell like rotten eggs. Try removing the annode rod and I bet it will be the end of your problem. Please note that removing the rod may affect your warrenty. I would love to know if this helps, I am pretty sure it will. Regards, Metroman

Yes it does - especially if its being sold by Focus Hyundai!

Disconnect both heater hoses from the heater core or the engine, whichever is easier. Fabricate fittings to attach a garden hose to one of the heater connections. I direct the other heater connection into a bucket. Turn on the garden hose gradually until all the way open. Flush for 30 seconds. Reverse heater connections and back flush another 30 seconds. Reinstall heater hoses, top off radiator coolant reservoir. Done.

It could be like my 95 F250. The fan tips on the water pump were rusted off. It would keep the engine cool but the pump could not push water up to the heater. Replace water pump. Took me 2 hrs to replace water pump and 100.00.

Insufficient amount of coolant or thermostat not opening

One reasons a Subaru Forester may overheat is because the radiator may need replaced. Another reason could be the thermostat.

You might be able to do it yourself for not much money. Go to a local auto parts retailer and see if they have a small inexpensive AC pressure gauge. If you can get one, check the pressure level in your ac system, and if it's low, you probably can buy a can or two of refrigerant to top off the refrigerant. Make sure you use a gauge so that you don't overfill the system, otherwise you'll cause other problems, but with a little care and reading the directions, you should be able to repair it yourself if the problem isn't too severe. Of course, there is the possibility that there are more serious problems, in which case you'll need to spend a little more money, but if it's just low, that's an easy fix.

There are two hoses that exit the heater core directly behind the engine, towards the left. They are secured to the heater core with conventional clamps & extend to the drivers side of the car where they connect to steel tubes that terminate in the engine with slip fit O rings and a support bracket. One of the hoses connects to it's steel tube with a conventional clamp & the other with a "special" fitting that is part of the hose. The hoses have preformed bends in them to wrap around the back of the engine.
They are very difficult to replace. I removed the air intake "horn" to gain access to the heater core ends & removed the distributor to access & remove the steel tubing from the engine. Mine were leaking at the O rings as well as at the tubing to hose connection.

Check for a broken or disconnected duct Check the operation of the vacuum acutated motors under the dash Check the operation of the selector switch

The thermostat housing is right in the middle of the v of the engine, the injectors, fuel and air inlet has to be removed to get to it, the thermostat is in a sealed housing and the housing does crack slowly and break apart eventually, this will be noticed by water having to be added regularly with no apparent water leaks, the water first leaks in a fine spray and evaporates on the hot engine, later the housing will break open totally and you have sudden loss of all coolant, Never drive a kv engine any distance at all if the overheating signal shows.

something is wrong with the mode selector system. (floor, dash, defrost, mix). depending on the year of your car either the switch, vacuum line, cable, or electric motor, or wiring, or the door itself inside your dash. it's on defraust because the car makers made it that way so if this failed in the winter, you'd be able to see. take some panels out of the way on both sides of your car under the dash, you may be able to see what is wrong.

1st. thing to do is replace the thermostat.

Not knowing when the fan motor starts and stops, I would check this-if the blower doesn't run then you hit a bump, pothole, etc. and it runs, its probably the bushings in the motor. The only fix for this is replacing the blower assembly. If the motor isn't manufactured/remanufactured correctly, then the bushings which actually turn the shaft by inducing the electrical field are shot. A simple test is the next time the blower stops, hit the motor with your hand to see if it will start.

Sometimes switches wear out, which could be the reason the switch in your 1992 Chevy truck is not working. There could also be a problem with the wiring. You may also want to check the fuse for the blower to see if it's bad.

The HeaterTreater is an after market kit that solves heater and AC for the Jeep Grand Cherokee and Laredo. It is much cheaper than the dealership fix and is easy to install. For diagnosis and info, check out www.heatertreater.net or search eBay for "heatertreater".

I have a 1992 Plymouth Sundance with 130000 miles. 4 cyl, 2.0L It has been well taken care of with regular maintenance between 3k to 5k intervals since I bought it with 58k. The car instantly overheats when turned on. The heat blows frigidly cold air. It has a thermostat that is ~5 months old. The car will shudder and shake and then cut out when left idling or when it over heats. It is not losing coolant, but the car smells like burning antifreeze when you lift the hood. It will also steam and or smoke that escapes from under the hood when you turn it on. 1.) What are the possible diagnoses? 2.) How much will it cost? (Chicago area) 3.) Is it worth spending the money on a rebuilt car that I've had since high school, or should I just give up and buy a newer car? The most common cause of simultaneous engine overheating and no heat from the heater is extremely low engine coolant level, in other words a large pocket of air in the system. In some cars it's fairly easy to get the air out, in others it's very tricky. If there's a leak causing coolant loss, that will also have to be addressed or the problem will recur/worsen. Check 1. Your Thermostat (70%) of the time it is your thermostat. 2. Check and see if your radiator is clogged (Also very common).

Another issue is if your car overheats during idle, then it could be the electric radiator fan.

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the thermo-resitor is burned out