Car Heaters

[first time answering questions] car heater works like the reverse of the normal cooling radiator - in fact the heater is like a small version of the rad that's on the frnt of the car - the hot water from the engine block goes into this small rad and the heater fan blows air thru it into the car - the hot heater rad loses heat into the car and - bingo - you get warm inside

Usually 'Stop Leak' will not clog the core. Try flushing the cooling system out first. Note: The hot water goes in and the cooler water comes out. Flush the core going the other way so to clear any obstructions. If there is a clog, it might be something larger like bits of hose or corrosion. If the core is totally clogged, take it out and replace it with a new one. The amount of time you will spend doing this does not warrant using an old or used core.

you probabally have a vacuum hose disconnected

Thermostat stuck open, if older car possibly clogged heater core- when run at oper temp the hoses going into/out of heater core be sure one is very hot - start with thermostat $$$ cheap & easier than a heater core problem!

Most likely it is coolant getting to hot and boiling over, car is most likely overheating. Check for fluid under car, and temperature gauge.

check for vacume leak in heater control circuet

The defroster is a thin filament that is run across the rear window sometimes inside that heats up to remove frost. first off does the switch light up when pressed? is there power to the connector at the back window? if so then check the filament itself for breaks this may be the problem, if not then it may be a blown fuse, or bad connection.

Generally, no. The heater core usually has a direct line from the water pump, if the coolant was so low as to not circulate through the heater core your engine would overheat. Most likely a clogged heater core. Rust and sediment build up in the coolant system over time and cam clog the narrow channels in a heater core, which looks like a smaller version of your radiator. A reverse flush can sometimes clear the core out, but a severe case may require replacement. Any auto parts store can sell you a flush kit for about $10. I've used the prestone one with no problems, since the core may be really clogged, get the system cleaner bottle as well to ensure you get the most crud out possible. Follow all the directions on the kit, and cleaner, make sure you are using compatible antifreeze when you refill. DO not open any part of the cooling system with a hot engine (more than warm to the touch). Doing that can cause severe burns, blindness, or worse if the antifreeze in the engine starts to boil off violently.

Low freon, bad compressor, bad clutch, bad pressure switch (could be multiple of these), bad switch...the list goes on. Best bet is to take it to a mechanic for a diagnosis.

Ok you have to remove your all the parts of your dash. When this step is done, you gonna see a plastic black box, remove this one (3 Screws). Under this one you can see your heater core.

When this step is properly do, open your hood. Look on your firewall (Up Passenger Side) and remove all bolts, remove the 2 heater hoses. Remove your heatercore and replace it, Redo all of this step inverse for reinstallation! Good luck!

(Sorry my english, im not the best in this language!)

But before you replace it...

If you think it may only be clogged, turn heater controls to full open/hot. Then turn off engine. Disconnect heater hoses under the hood. Connect a short hose to the "input port" to carry dirty water away from your engine. Connect another hose to the "output port." Shoot water from a hose-end sprayer into the "output" to backflush the core. My heater in 98 Blazer had quit heating. I just had to wash the crud out it it worked fine afterward. (it was going to be a BIG job to take off enough dash parts to get to the core to deal with it)

Most likely it is a resistor that has blown on the back of the controls.

Possibly defective thermostat. It sounds like it is opening up a bit with increased pressure caused by higher engine revs - when idling, the pressure decreases and the thermostat valve closes. Just a thought, anyway.

Not enough coolant is running through the system chek for leaks and chek your heater core

Low on coolant, stuck open thermostat, plugged heater core, faulty temperature blend door,

See the related link below.

it could be your thermo stat

Disconnect the inlet and outlet hose going to the heater core, and connect them together. Do not plug either hose, just simply connect them together. Go to an auto parts store and tell them what you want to do. They can supply the proper connector and clamps. The inlet and outlet hoses are located, passenger side, entering the firewall.

nuke power

Could be,

low on coolant,

stuck open thermostat,

plugged heater core,

temp blend door malfunction,

first check to make sure the heater hoses from the motor are connected to the heater core ( they will be about 1 to 1 1/2 inches in diameter.if those are connected, then check to make sure that the inline valve in the heater hose is opening when you select the heat mode on the heat controller on the dashboard. if valve is not opening then you may have a vacum leak or electrical problem if the valve is controlled electrical.another problem to check would be the fuse panel for a blown fuse. Just from personal experience if your radiator runs dry the heater wont work either. Keep an eye on your radiator fluid level and make sure you dont have a leak in the coolant system. Other wise you should be able to move the daik from cold to hot (blue-red) select your button setting on the dash board and go. Or it's a bad heater core wich should be in your cash boardm

Yes, portable car heaters do work, but it is best to look at reviews of different kinds before purchasing them. Make sure to check whether it is simply a car heater or a car defrost/defogger.

try the themastat

You are low on coolant to the heater core.

The blower fan motor is located under the hood on the left side in a Ford E150