Car Starting Problems

When the starter functions properly but the engine doesn't start, there are only 3 possibilities:

1. Fuel delivery
2. Spark delivery
3. Compression

If all three of the above are normal, the engine MUST start.

First, check the fuel delivery. Use a can of starting fluid to test the hypothesis that the problem might be related to fuel. Remove the air cleaner and have a friend attempt to start the engine while you spray a good, healthy stream into the intake. Only spray while the starter is cranking or while the engine is running. If the engine tries to start when you're spraying starting fluid into the intake, but it stops as soon as you quit spraying the starting fluid, you almost certainly have a fuel delivery problem. The common causes are; fuel pump, pressure regulator, fuel filter, injectors or crankshaft position sensor.

Next, (since starting fluid didn't find the problem) check the spark. The Saturn "S" series uses a coil-pack assembly, meaning that one coil is used for two cylinders, and each coil fires when the associated cylinders are at TDC of the compression cycle and the exhaust cycle. Use a timing light to verify that there is, in fact, a spark, and that it is relatively close to TDC as expected. Also, connect a spare spark-plug to one of the plug wires, set it on a solid metal part of the engine, then have your friend "crank" the engine again while you watch the sparkplug to see if you're getting a strong spark. If not, find out why. Usually a faulty coil-pack assembly will result in only 2 of the cylinders misfiring.

Last, run a compression test. Pull the spark-plugs (mark the wires so you'll know where they go), then use a compression gague to find out what the compression is for each cylinder. The compression should be around 85-110 PSI for each cylinder, and ideally the compression shouldn't be more than a few PSI different across all cylinders.

If ALL of the tests looked good, you have done something wrong, since as I indicated above, if you have proper fuel delivery, good spark delivered at the right time and good compression, the engime must start.

Good luck.

well.....this might help,

I have a 93 mx3 with the v6 from the mx6 swapped. But anyway...I had the same distributor issue on my 1.8 v6. Replaced the distributor, then literally about a mile away from the shop is stopped working again. First question, do you have platinum plugs in there right now? if you do... get rid of them. they help burn out the distributor. second. I found that there alot of time is faulty wiring on the actual harness leading to the distributor. Ever since i swapped the engine however I have not had that issue. also make sure you are using a genuine Mazda distributor. Aftermarket ones or remans don't seem to last as long. I have a friend who works at Mazda and that is what they say. Also have a friend that owns a 95 ford probe v6 and he has gone through 5 distributors, and when he put the Mazda one on he hasn't had an issue yet. hope that helps. sorry for sloppy typing.

the primary thing to look at in your situation is the ignition module; the conditions you described sound like it is bad. when it cools down... it works. this so, try replacing it, or there is a remidy using a GM 4pin module (actually 5, the fith is the mounting ground) that is outlined in mx3 website in the forums, and probetalk... hope this is helpful to set you in the right direction!

>>>My MX6 dies aftewr about 20 minutes driving. An electrical specialist diagnosed the ignition module in the distributor. When it gets hot, it fails.

I am an auto tech and have been working on a 98 mpv 3.0l and cannot seem to get a good aftermarket Distributor for it. I am on the 3rd one now. 2nd one came damaged because it wasnt boxed very good.( All the same brand)

The problem seems to happen after the diagnostic connector is grounded to check the timing. After that it seems to weaken something in the Distributor and the the car will only run for a minute or 2 until the dist. heats up then it stalls and won't start until it cools down. I have spoke to someone from the company tech line and he had no answer for me.

The customer does not have a lot of money to spend on this old vehicle but it looks like we will have to go to Mazda to get something that will last. Way too much junk out there these days.

Now I have to go figure out why my new carpet cleaner won't run. WHAT EVER HAPPENED TO QUALITY CONTROL !!!!!!!

• It could have been flooded with gas (although this is less common in newer cars).
• The gas line could have been frozen the first day and thawed by the next.
• Cold weather can also cause the fluids in the engine to thicken, making the engine unable to "crank" fast enough to start.
• The battery could be a little low from cold weather or approaching end of life, and not provide enough power to "crank" the engine.
• It could be a diesel engine in cold weather.*
• There might be dirt or other debris in the gas plugging the line that gets unplugged the next time the engine is started. Use better gas (e.g. brand name). Check fuel filter.
• A starter wire could have a loose connection that causes intermittent starting problems.
• A spark plug could be malfunctioning or dirty.
• If it happens when the engine is hot, it could be the ignition module.
• Might be a loose starter motor control wire.
• You may be at the bottom of the fuel tank and not know it because you have a faulty fuel gauge, then you could have the debris in the gas problem when you don't expect it.
• Your air control valve may be dirty.
• Fuel pressure could be an issue.
• Battery contacts could be dirty or loose.
• The alternator or distributor may need maintenance.
• There might be a problem with the anti-theft system, disabling starts. Or with a programmed key that the car no longer recognizes.
• It could be the computer has loose connections or has gone bonkers.
• If you have driven through water, washed the engine, or otherwise got water in the ignition, it could be short circuited by water that evaporates by the next day.

As you can see, there are many things that could be wrong, this is not an entire list by any means. However, the most common problems are with ignition, battery, fuel delivery, dirty parts, and bad wire connections.

*If the temperature is cold, diesels are notoriously hard to start. As mentioned above, in cold weather oils in the car thicken and battery strength drops, both making the engine hard to crank. The type of oil may need to be changed. Thicker oils like 15W-40 are great in warmer weather in diesels, but when temperatures get below freezing or even lower, they get too thick. 30 or 40 weight oils are especially too thick. Or you may need to use an engine warmer to keep the oil from getting thick in winters.