Car Starting Problems

sounds like your in the market for a starter.

More than likely, your sterring wheel is turned hard to the left or right.....or middle, actually....anytime you turn hard against the wheel after you have shut off your engine, you are pushing against the unassisted (by power) steering, this means that you will encounter resistance, and when you do turn your key all the way to the off position, and then let go of the steering wheel, there will be considerable pressure against the ignition assembly....It can be all but impossible to start the car until you turn the wheel to ease pressure on the lockset........i cant tell you how many times i have seen this, and panicked people who cannot start their car.....i lean in to the vehicle, pull the wheel to one side or the other and magically they can turn the key......

Of course, you could have a really badly eroded key, but not likely in a 2004.......

we can assume you are not using the key to your Briggs & stratton to start you car, right......

it's ripe.

That's about the time you want to start checking out the timing belt. Run a compression test and see what you're getting. If compression is low, you've probably slipped a tooth on the timing belt. The backfiring isn't good.

Remove starter and bench test it for operation and current draw

Possible PRNDL switch mounted inside the transmission next to the valve body..

not easy to change......

You could try turning your steering wheel both directions to release pressure then turn.

This is probably 100% because the teeth on your flywheel are worn out from trying to start it with a bad starter too many times. I had this same problem, changed my starter, it worked like twice then started grinding again. Took it out and look at the flywheel and it was toast. Changed the flywheel the worked fine. Had to replace the started again 8 months later because, well, thanks O'Reilly!

Replacement of a flywheel can run you from $500 to $1000+ for a mechanic. Its about $180 for materials (w/ clutch replacement as well, I mean since you're RIGHT THERE). Need a second person though because taking that tranny out is a beeyotch. If your car is new, it won't be SOO bad. The bolts on my truck were rusted so it took about three days.

Probably a leaky FPR diaphragm or bad MAP sensor reading.

If bad FPR diaphragm replace the fuel pressure regulator. This will also fix the misfiring, excessive fuel consumption, catalytic converter burning up, and rapid engine wear.

If MAP sensor, replace sensor and/or hose to sensor. May also fix: check engine light on, hesitation on acceleration.

Does the engine crank ? If not , does the underhood light come on when you open the hood or the door chime sound if the keys are in the ignition with the drivers door open ? If you don't get any lights / door chime etc. it could be a bad battery cable connection or a dead battery If the engine cranks and does not start , it's either not getting fuel or spark

Have starter load tested. it's your solinoid Older Chevy's are known for this problem. it is because the starter and selonoid are so close to the exhaust that they get hot. this causes more resistence in the selonoid so it just needs to cool down. Try some heat shielding to prevent the problem.

If the starter/solenoid does not fix the issue...you should also check the ignition module and the cap/rotor. Had the exact same issue. The module will over heat when you have a bad rotor or cap. When it's cold it will start right up, but if you ran the car to the store and tried to restart, it wouldn't start for at least 10 minutes. Then it would start fine. Turned out the rotor was bad, which was causing excessive voltage requirements which overheated the ignition module. Changed them, and, voila, problem gone.

Starter solenoid sticking. Replace the solenoid if it is external. If it is internal, then just replace thee starter. It will cost a little more but you will have a new starter and solenoid.

"TURNING OVER AN ENGINE" REFERS TO ROTATING THE CRANKSHAFT, USUALLY BY MEANS OF THE STARTER MOTOR AND THE RING GEAR, IF IT WAS AN OLDER ENGINE YOU COULD USE THE CRANK HANDLE THOUGH THESE WENT OUT OF FASHION DUE TO HIGHER CRANKING SPEED BEING REQUIRED TO START AN ENGINE. PUSHING THE VEHICLE (IF IT WAS MANUAL) WHILE IN GEAR WOULD ALSO TURN THE ENGINE OVER BUT MAKE SURE THE IGNITION WAS SWITCHED OFF UNLESS YOU WANT IT TO START.

you'll get more results if you spell "Jetta" right.

starter, starter relay, battery, high resistance in batter/starter cabels just a few things that will cause this.

Fuel filter is plugged or fuel line is cinked, after highway driving where fuel flow is greatest the pump cannot maintaine the flow and engine "runs out of gas" after an hour the fuel line is full again by gravity.

Run with a greater than half a tank until you get it fixed

You might have a faulty TFI (Thick Film Integrated) ignition module. Sometimes it is located on the distributor and sometimes attached to the engine compartment of the vehicle. If it is damaged and becomes overheated, the module will intermittently lose power as it heats up and then finally die on you. It takes about an hour for the module to cool down.

My guess is the fuel filter and or pump. the faster you go, the more fuel your engine requires. Thus, if the flow is restricted your engine may stall.

In my experience,if you have located it,you should just have to push the white reset button.

on the passenger side next the oil pan

check for power to starter; check fusable links at positive battery connection, can you jump starter directly with power source? if not maybe the starter should be taken out and inspected/bench tested. given the year I suspect wiring/connection issues. a worn out ignition switch would be common for this age of vehicle. check operation of starter relay. check for power to starter; check fusable links at positive battery connection, can you jump starter directly with power source? if not maybe the starter should be taken out and inspected/bench tested. given the year I suspect wiring/connection issues. a worn out ignition switch would be common for this age of vehicle. check operation of starter relay. check for power to starter; check fusable links at positive battery connection, can you jump starter directly with power source? if not maybe the starter should be taken out and inspected/bench tested. given the year I suspect wiring/connection issues. a worn out ignition switch would be common for this age of vehicle. check operation of starter relay. check for power to starter; check fusable links at positive battery connection, can you jump starter directly with power source? if not maybe the starter should be taken out and inspected/bench tested. given the year I suspect wiring/connection issues. a worn out ignition switch would be common for this age of vehicle. check operation of starter relay. check for power to starter; check fusable links at positive battery connection, can you jump starter directly with power source? if not maybe the starter should be taken out and inspected/bench tested. given the year I suspect wiring/connection issues. a worn out ignition switch would be common for this age of vehicle. check operation of starter relay.

I'm having the same trouble - please e-mail me if you ever found out the trouble to yours. rzsiemperperdido@sbcglobal.net

To send electrical voltage to the starter when engaged.

The temp sensor helps tell the engine how to mix the air and fuel to compensate for air temperature. If this isn't working then the air fuel mix can be off and cause rough idle.

Low battery voltage .?

how to change starter 2.0 diesel

zafera