Carburetors

Hey Mike==This can be caused by several things depending on what car and what engine you have. It can POSSIBLY be caused by the timing chain or belt jumped or sometimes the timing being slow can cause it. GoodluckJoe I have a 91 caprice 305 in its doin the same thing. Its sprayin from the throttle body all over the engine causing it to flood

Usually it's bolted to the top of the intake manifold.

The device that mixes the proper amount of fuel and air depending on the position of the accelerator. The mixture is then sent down the intake manifold to all cylinders. It allso sets the idle speed of the engine and increases the fuel/air mixture during a cold startup.

Well assuming the carburetor is set properly idle wise with a meter and all the normal tune up things are in KNOWN good condition.My suggestion is clean the egr valve under the carburetor with carburetor cleaner and note the position of the gasket on it for reinstall purposes.When cleaning it use some sand paper or a small brush to remove the carbon buildup.It has one vacumm line,one electrical connector going to it with 3 ten millimeter bolts that hold it on.If the idle is still crappy I would suggest a new map sensor which is mounted on the passenger side fender with a vacumm line and electrical connector on it.And the tune items like plugs,wires,cap,rotor button and even the oxygen sensor are critical.Hope this gives you some insight into the issue.

You need a"Pac Man" carb adjustment tool.

You can use either a single Mikuni VM 34 or VM 36 on the 850. The 750 uses only the 34.

Floats control the amount of fuel in the carburator's bowls.

The fuel level that is incorrect can cause an lean/rich condition.

There wont be one. It is fuel injection.

one carburetter they usually have two adjusting screws one for throttle the other would be setting the right fuel mixture

idle speed = 650 rpm. float (full open)to bowl floor clearance =1 mm. float (full closed) to bowl top = 8.5 mm. idle mix is adjusted with a vacuum guage to highest steady vaccum/highest steady rpm. fast idle opening angle = with cam on first step, butterfly clears bore by 1.4 mm. choke valve clearance = with fast idle cam on second step, butterfly clears bore by .55 mm. choke unloader - primary butterfly full open, choke butterfly clears bore by 2.25 mm. see discussion page for more on this.

General procedure: (1) ensure spark plug is clean and fresh fuel in fuel tank; (2) close needle valve (clockwise) until it seats - do not force; (3) open needle valve (counter-clockwise) 1 to 1-1/2 turns; (4) start engine and let warm up for about five minutes; (5) close needle valve (clockwise) slowly until engine starts to stall then open neede valve (counter-clockwise) slowly until engine starts to stall; (6) set needle valve midway between the two points.

If by breakdown sheet you mean exploded diagram, BikeBandit.com has what you are looking for.

Carburettors don't have timing. A carb will only add a proportional amount of atomised fuel to the air that is drawn into the engine, either "naturally" through the action of the pistons, or forced in by the help of turbos or superchargers.

You can however adust the fuel/air mixture in a carburetor.

the ejecter is bad ,itis ontop of the hoseing on clip and it will pop out,

Flame luminosity occurs because of lack of oxygen. Also, the air holes in the Bunsen burner affects the flame.

If it is on the front of the carb then it goes to the vacume advance on the distributer, if it is the big one on the back, either the shift down if you have auto trans, or uasualy pluged if you have a manual trans.

Go to O'reilly's they sell books that go threw everything on any certain car or truck that you may need.

It's a carborator, just go get a $12 - $20 rebuild kit, follow the instructions. and keep track of your part! I like to arrange mine in a line (like doninos!) In the order they came off per the instructions. and it will also come with a basic tuning guide. Do not forget carb cleaner, dunk or spay, those things get pretty gross.

1 + 1/4 turn

There is only one screw you can adjust on that, other than the idle, which should be at 1100 rpm when at running temp with no choke on. The Air/fuel mixture screw is pre-set at the factory and sealed. You can get that seal out of there to adjust them but that is usually only done if you are rebuilding the carbs or doing a complete carb cleaning. They are 1-1/4 turns up from bottom at a light seat. If your carbs are dirty you will be there all day and it will never be right. If you do the cleaning, turn the screw in to a light seat and count how many turns it was so you can put them back the same. Any other questions you can email me at jseamix416@yahoo.com. I have an 81 xs1100sf special that I just got done with. I did a valve job, seals, timing chain, re-built the carbs with new kits. Running great now. Good luck

It came with a Rochester 4 barrell Quadrajet.

A good default setting is 1.5 turns. After that you can continue to turn them out with a rpm gauge connected. Then gauge needs to be accurate. Some timing lights will show rpm. Turn each one out separately until max rpm is reached. Ideally a exhaust gas analyzer is best to use as it will take into effect engine wear.

Click the links and contact these people. They can help you.

Generally, if the moisture in the air is already frozen into ice crystals, they will not freeze to the sides of the carburetor. Where it becomes an issue is if you were to apply carburetor heat in this scenario. If it is only slightly below freezing, applying carb heat can melt the ice crystals into water, which can then collect and freeze in the carburetor. So applying carb heat below 0'C (or 32'F) can sometime make the situation worse.

Running too rich, timing off. Search your engine and "backfire"