Chevy 305

your OWNERS MANUAL will tell you' if you can read, that 5W30 is the required viscosity for the engine

Johnsautoparts.com

The fastest 305's were in the Monte ss's & they only got 185hp, best option is always to go for a 350 swap

You need to rent a hoist. There are lift plates you can attach like a carb to the manifold. You should have a back up chain to a couple other bolts as a safety as well & use grade 8 only with washers. Once you unbolt the motor/trans mounts you can roll the engine towards you straight out the front. It is far easier removing core support than trying to go over it & removing engine/trans together easier than trying to attach trans to block in car.

hi there. i just did mine, and it has to be 14 to 16 pounds on line. on plug your line to the carb and put the meter on there and see. cheers!

timimg is off either your timing chain jumped or your ecm located on the side of distributor is gong bad

Depends on what the 305 is in, a 305 camaro engine needs like a 9 tooth starter because the fly wheel is 12.75 inches in diameter with 50 some teeth. A 305 in a Chevy half ton will have like a ten tooth starter for the 14.25 inch diameter flywheel that has like 60 some teeth. All 305 engines before 1986 are the same they did have different flywheels for what ever Chevy put them in. 1986 and newer 305's had different cranks the flywheel bolts up different on a 1986 305 compared to a 1983 305.

it probly needs a rebuild fresh clutches and so on,maybe a pressure control solenoid,convertor could be on it's way out and heating up too much or it could just be that your kickdown cable isn't properly adjusted which is a common problem which generally leads to the transmission burning out the direct clutches and needing to be rebuilt

In order to put a serpentine belt on, you have to relieve the tension pulley.You can do it yourself if you have a breaker bar to loosen tension pulley. don't just put it by hand because the belts need to be tighten in order to work. if it was just the acessory belt(alternator,power steering) you could drive to a mechanic with out it.this may be a little hard to do without power steering if you driving a heavy vehicle. if you could get it on by hand , and in the proper routing , all you need to do is tighten it (belt tensioner) and you'll be alright. but on ''SOME''older vehicles (1985 BMW for ex) when the power steering pump goes out so does your brake booster, youR brake pedal willbe impossible to press.

I have a 98 Bonni and I found the only way to do it is to remove the R/F engine mount spacer..((between the AC compressor and the crankshaft pully))(you must turn your wheels to the right exposing a plastic weathersheild,behind the right wheel. By removing this shield you will see a shrouded 18mm nut. Remove the nut, then with a 8mm socket remove the bolt. There is a metal spacer between the motor mount and the engine block Tap[from the top) and the spacer will come off.)the belt will slide out thourgh that space. Put the new belt on accourding to the diagram given to you at the auto store. Then put everything back in reverse order. I hope this helps out..

usally about 8 or 10 degrees BTDC will work fine to get it going.

open the trunk lid and lift it out. Watch your head when reaching in.

87 had TBI.

There is a small pad in front of the right head with the information you're looking for.

Here is a website that has a photo and information about decoding the number: http://www.nastyz28.com/chevy-engine-code-stampings.php

chevy didn't come ouy with vortec heads until the 90's . I'm thinking about 96, so just because they are centerbolt head doesn't mean they are vortec. sorry pal

it usually means that the car is running rich. fuel is not burning off. try taking it in for a diagnostic to see why.

Probably, but you will probably have to get some pipes made to attach to your existing exhaust system becasuwe the outlet on the headers will obviously not be in the same place as your stock manifold outlets.

YES

32 degrees

if you are careful it will handle it for a while. fuel system will have to be upgraded. DO NOT ALLOW IT TO RUN LEAN!!!

Regular Service Keeps Your Transmission on the Road… Servicing your car’s automatic transmission regularly can dramatically extend its life. That’s because the oil — or ATF — does more than just lubricate: It also helps drive the transmission. Damage to the fluid, such as oxidation and shear, will reduce its holding power. This allows the transmission to slip and overheat, and quickly cause it to fail. A complete fluid exchange service, performed annually, can add years to your transmission’s life. For Example GMC say's Automatic Transmission Fluid and Filter Replacement Interval:
Every 100000 miles unless the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:
1) In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90 F (32 C) or higher.
2) In hilly or mountainous terrain.
3) When doing frequent trailering. Also consider a second transmission filter [http://emergingent.com/subpage1Magnefine.htm The Magnefine Filter System] as well. Good Luck and Remember.
Change Your Mind, Not Your Oil.
Use the First In Synthetic Motor Oil's.
See My Bio For Information & Contact Details.

It is inside of the fuel tank.

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 clockwise on dist. cap.

Driver's side head front to rear are cylinders--1-3-5-7

The other head.............................................--2-4-6-8

I have an '85 S10 with a 305 small block, runs great, just a lot of work to do, but she runs great and sounds AWESOME!

Give it a go!

Front, drivers side. Two is front, passenger side.

It depends on which 3.0 you are taking about, which you fail to list. There are two different 3.0 liters that year. Look at the link on the right and pick the correct model Dodge.