Chevy Beretta

The firing order for this engine is 1-2-3-4-5-6. The cylinders are 1-3-5 from left to right on the back head, and 2-4-6 from left to right on the front head. The coil pack is 1-4-6-3-2-5 from left to right when viewing from the front of the car.

the guage may have to be switched, go to a junkyard and get a new one, the digitals were notorious for breaking, thus why the option ceased production in later years of the beretta

They are bolted from the inside of the door.

The company Beretta sells sportsman gear. They specialize in the sale of firearms and also sell all accessories for the avid sportsman. This ranges from firearms to clothing sales.

you might be overheating....check the coolant level and quality of it Also you may want to have your ignition controll module tested it may be getting hot and shutting down.the ICM is the plate your coil packs sit on.

A VSS sensor is the Vehicle speed sensor and it is located on the transmission. It tells the computer how fast you are going and operates the speedometer and the ABS system.

4.5 quarts

Weatherstripping

If the 8th digit in VIN of both cars are the same, then yes.

There is a sensor either in the coolant recovery jug or the radiator side tank that is defective.

Chevy Beretta, Corsica, and Pontiac Tempest (Canada) share the GM L-body platform.

Take a punch and push the pin through as far as you can, then twist it out with a pair of pliers

my Beretta is a 94 and it hood release is broke just the silver cable show ,,, i use needle nose pliers and pull it !

525,600

Find this book "The World of Beretta: An International Legend"

Its a front wheel drive coupe produced by Chevrolet. More specifically' it was produced by their division of General Motors in the 1987-1996 model design.

Start at the longest lin (RR) and work toward the shortest line (LF)

Fill master cylinder reservoir (do not let get empty)Have assistant push and hold brake pedal down aprrox. 3/4 of the way to the floor

Connect a plastic hose to bleeder screwSubmerge other end of hose in a container partailly filled with brake fluid

Open bleeder screw and watch container for air bubblesClose bleeder and have assistant repeat until no air bubbles are present then move on to next wheel and repeat

so far from what i have seen with mine unless it has the full power options package no it does not

First you start the car. Then you let it idle or drive it until it reaches operating temp. Finally you turn the heater on to the defrost setting.

I added a link that may have some info for you. This is for the J-body. (Cavalier/Sunbird) but a lot of it will be the same for you. Most guys on the site that have done the swap will tell you it's not worth the headache. The 3400 and now 3500 swap puts out almost as much power, the engine weighs less, and the swap is much easier than the 3.8. The few that have done the 3.8 SC swap can't get the power to the ground. It looks cool but is fairly useless in these light cars. You can also turbo charge the 3400 if you want even more power.

Pull the piston (through the top, meaning that you'll need to remove the head).

Have a qualified machine shop recondition the rod since the "big end" has no doubt suffered SOME damage when the bearing went bad.

Turn the crankshaft to make the affected journal "round" again, meaning that you'll need to pull the crankshaft.

While you have it apart you'll probably notice that one or more OTHER bearings are worn through the babbit material. If you see copper on the bearing, don't re-use it. In fact, it's a good idea to have the machine shop check and recondition ALL rods, and since you'll probably have to turn more than one journal you may as well plan on all new bearings.

While you have the heads off and the pistons out, check for cylinder "taper". That's when the cylinder has worn a little over time. If you have noticeable taper, plan on boring the cylinders and replacing the pistons.

And since the heads are off, have them checked as well. There is absolutely no point in putting a worn head back on a new engine.

Also, check the cam and lifters for wear, and if you've gone that far, plan to replace the oil pump, timing chain...

In short, a bearing doesn't usually go bad all by itself. Most likely the rest of the engine is pretty well worn out too.

Sounds like the Torque Converter Lockup Solenoid is bad. To verify this, disconnect the solenoid and see if it then stops stalling. If so the solenoid needs replacing. You can drive it with it disconnected although your fuel mileage will go down.Where is it located and how do you disconect it ?

those fuese carry your ecm and eprom

I have a Beretta (a '96 but I think it could be the same thing), and when my water pump was going out,it caused it to stall ALL the time after it would warm up. I didn't realize a water pump would even effect something like that. But check your pump- if it's moving side-to-side like it looks like it could slide right off,it needs to be replaced.That will fix the stalling,I promise you.Other reasons? Don't know. if its an automatic tranny open the hood look down to the tranny and you will see a sensor with two wire coming off it cut these two wires and the stalling will stop.my 93 stalled all the time,drove me nuts and my local mechanic showed me this sensor and said its something gm put on for no good reason and discovered that diabling it was best so he cut these wires and i havent had a stall since.

5 on 100mm. Very common on FWD GM and Chrysler vehicles of the era.