Chevy Cavalier Z24

i have an 03 so im assuming that its the same... but remove your driver front tire and look above your cv boot on the transmission it should have a blue color connector.

it is not recommended because the 14 gauge wire is not capable of carrying the same amount of load as the 12 gauge wire which could result in a fire.

Front Doors=6 3/4" X2

Rear Doors=6 3/4"* X2

Rear Deck=6x9" X2

Front Near Window=3 1/2" X2

center of Dash= 3 1/2" X1

*If Available

Jack car front up pull wheels remove caliper, brake pads, rotor loosen axle nut remove 3 bolts holding wheel bearing/hub use hammer/chisel or air chisel to pry out the old unit from the front (it won't fall right out once unbolted and needs to be worked out) clean the hole out with fine sandpaper to remove debris and any peaks or rims then lubricate the hole with something like wd-40 or lubricant. installation is the reverse

remove the 2.4 liter engine cover (4 large bolts) disconnect any electrical conectors (these hook up to the coil packs) and lift it straight off the top of the engine remove the boots from the spark plugs (these should be replace) and the plugs should be fully visible

With all my extensive research,I am inclined to belive that a 2000 GM 2.4L engine WILL fit into a 1995 GM 2.3L Cavalier.But you must take into effect that the engine W/mounts, transmission W/mounts,computer, wire harness, along with the exhaust plumbing will have to stay with the 2000 model engine.In other words use as many 2000 parts as possible NOTE: There will be alot of head scratching and the word "if" will be used alot.There has been MANY,MANY changes since 1995 and you will probably run into several "bugs" that will need tending to. You should look at this web page before doing anything. www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar40032.HTML hope things work out. As the 2.4L engines get harder and harder to find I am personley working to put eco-tec engines in a z24 W/2.4L engine. I am running into some bumps but the time I have to spend on my creation is slowing me down the most.When I compleat this monster I will post everything I had to do to make it.AND,I will be making wire harness' so it will be a plug and play item. So stay tuned.

No... The Haynes repair book has it in there but I have taken apart and rebiult over a dozen GM 2.4L DOHC engines and NONE have had one of those oil slinger's. I have tried to figure it out and have come up with "it wouldn't sling oil even if it had one". If you ever rebuild one, be sure to replace the oil check valve that is in the oil passage coming from the oil pump.It keeps the oil in the upper part of the engine after it is shut down. It is a ball bearing and a spring.No one ever say's anything about that part.

The first time I done it, it took me 3 hours. But I have done seven or eight now. And I can have it done in less than an hour. Backing it onto some ramps, droping the tank, pull the pump assembly, removing the fuel and getting out any dirt in the tank, install the new pump, mounting the tank...done! As with anything, you get better with pratice.

You have to buy what is called a "Pass-Lock" system. It bypasses the factory alarm system. Good luck

smokingallowed say's..... newrockies.com

No.. the chip "so-to-speak" is integrated into the key lock cylinder.

Behind the coil pack in the front lower center part of the engine.

By "disassemble" I assume you mean replace. Jack up front of car and secure. Remove (1) mount to chassis nut on bad mount, use jack to raise engine enough to remove (2) mount to block bolts then remove the old and replace with new mount. I think they cost between $17 and $25 at the parts store unless you want the poly type.

Could be any number of things, but most (95%) situations are a loose or broken vacuum hose. Try spraying starting fluid in "small" bursts around vacuum hoses, around the valve cover, and the intake. You can pick up a can for under 43.00 at ant parts store. If the engine RPMS climb higher, you found your leak. Be safe as starting fluid is flammable and if you have any random sparks, it might catch fire, most likely it wont, otherwise your would have busrt into flames already.

in florsiqa It is in the bellhousing and it is a Slave/Throw-out bearing all in one. There is a quick connect and a bleader valve on the outside on the tranny. It is like the Jeep manual transmissions.

Crutchfield notes the front speakers are 4" and the rear speakers are 6 1/2". There is a note on the rear speakers not being exactly that size, but those are the largest that will fit

Put the switch in the on position and leave it there for 15 minutes. Then turn the of the ignition, remove the key, and repeat it. At the third time after the 15 minutes, try starting, It should start.

One four door tahoes the front doors came with 6.5" coaxis and 6.5" components with 1/2" tweets. rear doors have shallow mount 6.5" coaxis. the rear roof have 4x10s.

1. first take the wheel off so you can see the the caliper and the rotor. make sure the car is on stands and not just waving around on a jack.

2. look behind the caliper and use your finger to locate, a pair of bolts behind the caliper... they will be holding the caliper into place on the suface of the rotor, by a simple look and feel you can see these, they should take a 17mm socket undo them and remove the bolts. at this stage you should see the the caliper become loose.

3. remove the caliper by pulling it up and away from the rotor

4. now you can see the rotor remove this it will simply slide away.

5. this will leave the hub exposed and the studs.. you will see that they are wedged into the hub

6. remove the stud/s by hitting them / it with a hammer be carful to not damage the other studs if you just replacing one.

7. there is one spot where the will be a gap and you will be able to get the stud in behind the hub and have a little bit of room, rotate the hub to there, make sure the car is out of gear or this will be very difficult :)

8 once the stud is in take something you can use as a spacer like a larger then the stud nut. for example and then put one of the wheel nuts on and tighten slightly

9. use a hammer and drive the back of the stud home, and slowly tighten the wheel nut as you go.

10. once this is done your finished put all the bits back together in the oppersite order and replace the wheel.

6 x9 in the back and 3.5 inch round ones in the dash ........tuner1978

ahh.. I have done this! Rare part to go bad but it does. Mine went bad at 240,000 miles (I love American cars!)

Follow the spark plug wires back to the coil packs. Under the coil packs is the module your looking for. I think it has 2 or 4 bolts holding it on.

Get one from the junk yard, I got mine for 20 bucks.

Its hard to change because its on the back of the motor. You will have to work some from the top and some from the bottom. I did it in about an hour.

programyourremote.com simply put.. "Program Your Remote.com"

The thing to do in this case is to go to a locksmith and have him /her cut your new key to code. Your key is worn down and needs some added back on. It will cost less than changing the "waffers" in the lock. The places that cut keys just duplicate your old worn key and none of them work right.

you don't. ac systems are filled with a chemical called R-12. if you breathe or swallow it you will die. take it to a trained service tech. pls.

Push down on the tensioner and remove the serpentine belt. From underneath, remove the electrical connector with a pair of needle nose pliers etc. Remove the single mounting bolt on the rear side of the compressor (from underneath). Remove the bolt holding the hoses to the rear side of compressor. Remove the 2 bolts (15mm) from the belt side ("front side") of the compressor.

The compressor uses R134a and no, it won't kill you as long as you don't intentionally do something crazy like inject it into you veins.

sounds like the water pump is gone. that may be where the leak is coming from. could also be the cap for the coolant res. or thermostat

Depends on many factors.....kbb.com you can find the amount.... "Kellys Blue Book".com