Chevy Cavalier Z24

Depends on many factors.....kbb.com you can find the amount.... "Kellys Blue Book".com

On the 2.4L z24 I think you are talking about the one on top on the driver sid. That is the OUTLET GASKET and it is a rubber O RING.The temp. sensor is screwed into that to detect cooling temp. as it leaves the engine. Coolant leaves the engine to head to the radiator to be cooled.

There SHOULD be a "Vehicle Emission Control Information" label under the hood on the passenger side strut tower. If not, you can get one at a dealership. Or go to a car lot that has a car like yours and draw one by looking at theirs. But there are very few vacuum lines on this model. They start at the throttel body. A fat one goes to the brake booster....A smaller one next to it goes to the evac purge valve mounted on the A/C compressor bolt.Then from there goes to the charcoal canister...Two smaller ones below those...One goes to the fuel pressure regulator...The other goes to the acc. panel for your Heater/AC controles.It branches off from there and they go to 3 or 4 vacuum motors that control flaps that change defroster to vents to floor.Hot and Cold(middle knob)is controled by cable and not vacuum....And the last one is on the plastic intake a few inches below the throttle body.It is about 6 inches long and goes to the MAP sensor(manifold air pressure).That MUST be connected and plugged in or it wont start or run.

Man, lots of J-body car horn problems lately. Mine is broken too. It might be the relay, it might be the resonator/blower itself. The horn itself tends to rust due to location (passenger side next to rad, between rad and fender) Just took mine off and it was "rattling with rust flakes"

ur cheapest way to increase horse power would be replacing your air filter with a cold air intake. you can also add a perfomance chip to your ecu.

first off. if that's your question.. just leave it alone. the 350 is a SMALL BLOCK. yes a SBC will fit in the compartment of an 89 z24. i have a 350 in my 90. but if you don't know the answer already, you will never be able to swap a narrowed ford 9" *best choice* in the rear, or build the tranny tunnel, or the motor mounts, or reinforce it to handle that kinda power, considering its a unibody car. or even doing the front end. just give up.. NOW.

you should be able to find a shop manual at the local library with the right information on this -- make copies of the pages, as they are usually for REFERENCE only...:)

It depends on what engine yu have but on a lot of them it is under the coils. If your car has a dist it is inside.

* Disconnect the negative battery cable.If the vehicle is equipped with a delco loc 2 or theftlock audio system make sure to have the activation code before disconnecting the battery. * Remove the drivebelt * Label and detach the wires from the backside of the alternator * Remove the mounting bolts and separate the alternator from the engine

Dealer says its in the front window somewhere, on my car, anyhow, almost every z-24 i look at has this annoying leak, i never checked the car for leaks that the dealer claimed to fix, but they did mention its on the front window a frame, that seal goes bad, anyhow, if ya pull the entire front window and re-seal it, i think that's the cure, I am about to do my newest cavalier soon, but I will prolly forget to come back and answer this more, the dealer is prolly right...I own a Z 2/4 91 and from experience with this problem, I live in an area with many trees and the decayed leaves drop through the cowling slots located above the heater motor which clog up the drain holes, which allow water to enter the interior through the flooring on the passerger side when raining; to correct, a straightened out coat hanger pushed in the cowling pushes the debris out a rubber flap door above the rack for steering keep working wire till water can be poured in cowling and you notice the water exiting freely. I do this about once every season and the watered interior has ceased for me. NOTE an opening is on the drivers side also, but in my case this side doesent seem to get clogged just the one on the passengers side. I`ve had quarts of water in the interior of my car until this cleanout was performed. Rogerak1

Because there is a problem with it.

Locate the fuse, and yank.

The year would have been helpful as the block numbers do not help me. The 1988 had 150 h.p all the way up to the 195 h.p. in 2006. List the year and I can give you a definite answer.

I have a 2002 Dodge GC Sport and have the same problem. Mechanic said it probably needs the"Front Control Module " replaces...thing that turns lights on when switch is activated (Door open, or dim switch max'd). Good luck

150 hp 150 hp 150 hp

the 2.2, the 2.4 and the 2.2 ECOTEC. the mount are the same for the ecos and 2.4. you just need to change the tranny, harness and fuel pump

you gas is not being burn totally by your engine.it is wastefulland can be dangerous .see a mechanic now. probably your fuel injectionsystem.good luck rod.

if they are drum brakes it could be that the drums friction surface has a defect on it and everytime the shoes hit it it pops or it could be a bad hold down or quieter spring in the drum itself

Your traps could be being siphoned from improper venting, an "S" trap on one of your fixtures, or a cracked trap below slab level. It could also be the wax seal around your toilets. It is difficult to say without seeing your house.

Are you sure it rounded? Most of these bolts use an Allen Wrench so the outside of your bolt should be round but the inside should accept the L-shaped 6-sided tool. If the inside of the bolt is rounded from using the wrong size allen), then this is another problem to solve.

Take a rotary cut-off tool with a thin wheal. Grind a slot in the bolt head. Try to use use large a slotted screw driver to turn the bolt.

If this will not work, try drilling a hole in the bolt and use and "easy-out" or screw extractor (buy from a hardware store).

the ac compressor is bad

Speed Sensor is not working

Generally speaking, " no it can't be removed from the top ", but that is not taking into account if one would be willing to go to the extra work in disconnecting the whole assembly from the sub frame that is meant to be dropped out the bottom. The sub frame won't come through the top The recommended bottom removal is done so that one would be able to do most of the disassembly while it is sitting out in the open with out the having to work within such tight quarters while it is in the body. The entire assembly including the sub frame, engine and transaxle are held in the body by only four bolts more then what it takes to unhook the things that have to be removed whether or not it comes out the top or bottom. So if one has a way of safely raising the front of the body up high enough to clear the entire assembly while you pull it out the front, it is actually better to not even consider taking it out the top.

I doubt that running out of gas will my the low trac light come on. I own an 02 Cavalier, and the trac light has to do with the amount of traction you have on any given surface. If you know a mechanic I would have them check it out.