Chevy Cheyenne

It is inside the distributor, If you look at the right side of it you will see some electric

wires and they are hooked to the module. Just remove the cap and then 2 screews that hold the module on the base of the distributor.

It is an easy fix even for 1st timers. The biggest thing is the surfaces on the head and the valve cover must be clean. Be very careful when removing the covers they may be stuck and require a little jarring to loosen, but do not bend them. CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN. make sure all particles of old gasket are out of the head. When replacing the covers I use very little if any gasket sealer. I like to tighten the bolts just holding an extention and socket in my fingers. Then alernate top front, bottom back...... but not tight. I hold the rachet head, not the handle in the palm of my hand. I just did the valve covers on my 305 1889 chev, the correct torque settings or so i was told is hand tighten then torque to 40lbs if this is due to a leak i also would check the valve covers as well good luck

== == == == == == Go to LMCtruck.com

It depends on what you mean by "replacement dash."

If you want to cover up the unsightly dash then a dash cap from a place like LMCtruck.com will work fine. They actually look pretty good. If you want to actually replace the dash - for example yours is so cracked you can no longer attach the instrument bezel - then you need a place like wholesaleparts.com and input your year model etc. and look under "Instrument panel" and look for either "Upper Pad" or "upper Panel." Good luck!

This could be something simple as a vaccum leak, dirt air filter or more complicated as replacing the Idle Air Control Valve. Check your AIR FILTER, replace if dirty or worn out or old. Check your spark plugs, replace if old worn or damaged. Sparks may last up to 5 years or 6 months depending on your engine conditions. Oily plugs are a bad sign. Check your spark wires. If very old replace them. Inspect the vacumm hoses with soap water or shaving cream for bubles, hissss noise or like. If no leaks then think you may need to check the IAC ( Idle Air control valve ) for your car. This in conjuction with computer board are responsible for maintaining a stady idle rpm of your motor and to prevent stalling. Here ! pfarias@alplighting.com

I have seen a 1950 Chevy pickup put on a mid seventies chassis. The 66 cab on a 92 frame should be easier just measure the width length and height differences to see if any shims need to be made. ( the 50 pickup used short lengths of pipe to accommodate height differences) These were used at the mounting points of course. If you are trying to get front disc brakes a 71 or 72 front suspension should bolt right on to the 66, besides if you have the coil springs already it is the best ride you can get. If you just need a rebuild on all of your components my opinion is that the 66 has a much better frame and suspension.

huh??? pull on it? flip the end you can grab and pull?? never encountered one too darn tricky.

you must remove the distributor, disassemble unit and replace pick up coil

2.2 litres

Yes it has to be the same, Unless it's a MUD DRAG RACING truck.

If they are not the same ratio. Then when the truck was on payment and the tires could not SLIP It would BREAK something in the drive-train because they would be pulling against each other at different speeds. BANG SOMETHING BREAKS.

Two different Gear Ratio= Two different speeds.

452 cubic inches rounded up.

Back in the 60's through the early 80's 350 truck engines had a 4-bolt main engine in them. Most of the truck engines had a low end torque camshaft in them too. The heads had bigger valves plus sodium filled valves to get read of the heat in the valves. The heads where also a heaver casting so they would not crack while being worked hard. The truck engine even had better rods in them too. Alot of the bigger truck engines had a steal crankshaft in them.

The car engine had none of these special parts in them. The only cars that had special-good parts in them were the muscle cars of the 60's through the mid 70's, chevelles camaros ect..

There is a night and day difference in the truck and car engines.

I had the same question, so I asked my father-in-law who owns a shop. He suggested first changing the air filter, then moving to the oxygen sensor, even though the check engine light is not on. He also said to check the thermostat, if it is not closing than the sysstem is not closing which will cause the engine to think it's cold, therefore the engine willrun fastetr trying to warm up. If you take your car to an Auto Zone, Checker, or other auto supply house, they can put it on their scanner which will show any hidden codes. Good luck, I hope this helps

no

Go to a major library and ask if they have Mitchells "on-Line" I copied the entire schematic about 57 pages

good luck, My 07 diesel has lots of computer related problems, Do Not power up with outside power source 12 V or otherwise - you could fry a circuit board.

Dodge has a website www.dodgebodybuilder.com that has wiring diagrams on line for the chassis cabs.

Also you can call them directly at 866 205-4102.

Has it always been like this or not? If it is, then it is not really a problem. It is how the stereo was installed. An stereo can be installed to be turned on whether the engine is on or off. If the stereo cannot be turned off at all, then you have a problem with your stereo.

yes, it is under the hood on the passenger firewall, there is also a relay there also that could be bad. or the pump could be out

http://www.diy-electronic-projects.com/p180-6-Channel-Auto-Reverse-Sequential-Disco-Running-Lights here mmy friend hope it helps

Excessive internal engine wear (bad rings)

Work Truck. It was a basic model introduced for company use with very few frills.

It all depends on if you have a 220 bayou and it takes 2 quarts of oil 10w30 or now they have changed to a 10w40 oil.Just as long as you us a good qaulity oil you should be fine.

On the intake tube below the mass air flow sensor. Part # 90910-12259

First thing you take the horn assembly apart, usally two screws holding the face on from the rear of the wheel, then gently take the horn assembly, it's springs, wires, ect., take note how these things came apart, remove the large bolt holding the wheel on, get yourself what's called a "crows foot" wheel puller, rent it at any auto zone, use that to pull the wheel off, under that you'll run into the turn signal assembly, take that out with ease also, might be a circle clip holding the notched washer above a large spring that gives tension to the tilt wheel, if your car has one, if not skip this, you should see the ign lock assembly, there's small bolt or sometimes a pin the holds the lock in place, remove that and it'll slide right out, reverse to replace. jr

i have a 94 cheyenne c 1500 4.3 v6 and it has a vortec

5-30 in the summer is recommended. If you have the money I would run a Lucus oil stabilizer.

It will fit BUT NOTHING will hook up on it as far as the wiring harness and computer system that's on the 97. The transmission will not shift either and you would have to change the fuel pump that's in the tank. Nother words you would need the wiring,fuel pump, computer out of the 93 and install all of it into the 97.