Chevy Cheyenne

-30 degree C --APEX:)

It is under the distributor cap. If you look at the right side of the dist. You will see 2 electrical wires that plug into the module that's under the cap.

You did not say what year it was. But either way there will be 2 plugs just over top of each other on the side of the transmiassion, could be right or left side. The bottom plug is a drain, and just above it will be the fill plug. they both look the same.

To take the plastic inner panel off of the door perform the following: 1. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws on top of the armrest where your fingers are placed to pull the door closed. The armrest is then able to slide to the rear and be lifted off. 2. Look at the window crank where it covers the window crank shaft. You will see a plastic ring. Push this trim ring away from the window crank and insert a crank removal tool in the small space between the crank and the plastic ring(this is a stamped steel device available at auto parts houses). Place the tool behind the window crank, and inline with the crank and push the tool straight in, all of the way (about 3/8"), and pop the retainer clip off of the shaft. The window crank can then be removed. NOTE: If the crank doesn't come off, move to the exact opposite side of the crank and repeat this exercise. Watch the clip! This is a small "C" shaped clip, and When it comes off, it can fly away and get lost! Voice of experience! 3. Take a thin flat bladed screwdriver and remove the plastic surround from the around the inside door handle. There are three clips on the top, bottom, and front. Put the screwdriver between the main plastic piece containing the handle and the surround. Release these three clips and the surround can be lifted off. 4. Take an auto body clip tool (I use a Snap-on No. A181, it looks like an oversized two-tined fork) and use it to pry between the plastic door panel and the metal door. Release the 9 plastic clips spaced around the panel. 5. Use the same tool to remove the triangular trim piece at the front corner of the window. Only one of the plastic clips holds this piece on. 6. The inner door panel is now ready for removal. Grip it in both hands and lift up. It hooks over the inner steel door frame, and will lift straight off. 7. To take the door down further, there are a number of 9/32" head sheet metal screws which hold the inner cover to the inner door. Remove these, along with one 10 mm bolt on the front edge of the panel, and you should now be able to access any of the rods/motors, etc inside the door. .

You have to remove the inner door panel. Then from the inside of the door you'll find two nuts on the back side of the door handle. You'll have to remove them. You'll also have to remove to rods that are attached with clips. one is for the door latch and the other is for your door locks. Pay attention so you'll be able to put them back together the way they came off. Good Luck!

r12

There should be a button in your car/ truck that looks like a cone. Push it to turn it off. If there is no button you may be able to acces it thru your hud settings.

I have good news and I have bad news. First the good news - Christmas is coming. Now the bad news - It seems the only way to remove a broken bolt from an engine block is to drill it out - see you local mechanic for further details

There is a sticker in the drivers side door jam that has it written on it.
If the sticker is gone then you will have to ask your question again.

This question refers to the 1993 Chevrolet K1500 with the 6.2L diesel (engine code 'C') 8-cylinder 4WD. The K1500 has a service capacity of 7 quarts. Synthetic 5W40 and 15W40 is suggested for this diesel application. Shell Rotella T, Mobil Delvac I (Turbo Diesel Truck), and Chevron Delo 400, make grades specifically suited for this engine.

my 89 k1500 gets around 13-15

Try the lower rear of the engine - try to follow the + battery cable

Yes. I have a 1994 and It has a power steering cooler mounted behind the grilll next to the radiator. It looks like a mini-radiator. Mine is currently rusted out and leaking. There are lines (rubber) that run to and from the cooler that are kind of tucked under the front bumper. I get a puddle of power steering fluid that drips down from the cooler and ends up under the front bumper near the driver side wheel.

It is the selonoid unforutnately it is built into the starter......so you probably have to purchase a new starter....about 170.00

No, there is no return line. Because of the low pressure of fuel systems on carberated vehicles, there is no need for a return line.

Im thinking late 60's early 70's

If it is a automatic its is the hydramatic 4l80e if it is a manual transmission it is a v 4500

depends on the year. i know 1989 through '95 i think. Its located behind the glove box. just take the inside out of the glove box or the glove box out depending on year. and you see a silver box. that's your computer.

~ D

you have to take the top half of your air intake off not the whole thing and you'll see the regulator on the back of your engine beside your distributor

firing order is 18436572... looking from fan, first post on distributor will be closest to you to right. that will go to cylinder 1. post to right is 8, then 4, and so on.

Yes they are the same.

Yes, That is a must do.

I have the instruction manual for mine and it says 3 quarts, but I ckecked the oil level 3000 miles after I changed it and it needed 1 more quart (my car could be burning oil, I guess, or it needed 4 quarts originally).

All you do is pry the idler tension pulley back and remove the belt. Some idlers have a hole where you can use a ratchet to pry it back. Reverse the procedure to install the new one. If you have no diagram, then make a drawing or take a digital photo before removing the belt.

Are you sure there isn't a clip on the end that hooks over the top of the dipstick tube?