Chevy Colorado

easiest way to reset the car is to pull the battery cable and let it sit for 20 minutes of so. This removes all volatile stored data from the engine management system. Make sure you write down any radio codes beforehand.

I changed the starter in my 98 JXI convertible and it was fairly easy. You can only change it out from underneath the car. It's easiest if you have a means to get some working room under the front end of the car. The starter is located towards the front of the car, right next to the oil filter (just about at the center of the engine compartment). You must remove the oil filter during the job and it should be replaced. Unhook the negative battery cable before starting the repair, remove the wires connected to the starter and undo the two bolts holding the starter in. It slides right out. Make sure the nes starter is securely in place before replacing the bolts. Then hook the wires back up, put the new oil filter on and replace the fuse that always seem to blow when it goes out.

I can't speak directly for a Toyota, but if you have a carberated system then you could be having problems with a leaking vacume hose or something in your EGR valve.

If it sat for a year and you did not install a fuel stabilizer then I would suspect a fuel problem. Drain the fuel tank, change the fuel filter, and pour in at least 5 gallons of fresh fuel. Also pour in one can of Techron or Seafoam fuel fuel system cleaner. Use a starter fluid to get it going.

Incorrect wheel alignment, either excessive toe-in or toe-out. This can be solved by getting your wheels tracked.

what can be wrong when 98 Chevy lumina over heats but radiator is new?

please help?

first off disconnect the battery and then the wires to the silinoid switch on the top of the starter.remember where the smaller ones go. 6 or 8 cylinder the starter is on the pass side and you will have to acess it from underneath.2 9/16th head bolts i think

Yes. An amateur can change the starter. The long bolts must be removed, the wiring disconnected and the starter will come out. You must disconnect the battery's negative cable (black) during removal and replacement. It should be the first thing you do and the last thing you do. You need the right tools, patience, and you will have to remove some things to get to it. Be sure and make an area to lay things as they come off so you can reinstall in the same order that the parts come off. If you are careful, the job shouldn't take more than 2 hours. Take off the old one and take it with you when you go to the auto store to buy the new one (for comparison). Good Luck!

You can replace the whole thing, or you can use a restoration kit. You open it up by, I'm pretty sure, cutting the glue, then attach a buffer attachment to your drill. Then you use the solution and the buffer to clean up the lens before gluing it together again.

its located between the breather and the throttle body its a 2 wire senser grey and brown.. there are lots of aftermarket (chips) or basicaly resistors available for your model and all they really do is fool the computer into thinking its cold outside thusfore advancing the timing and adding more fuel for a richer condition which usally will add a few horsepower and footpounds of toqure but normally decreases the fuel mileage due to the richer conditions. but some ive seen on eBay claim enormous gains in both hp and fuel milage.. im installing one right now and i can let you know the difference. i have a gtec to let me know the hp increase.

The idle air control valve on the Chevy Colorado actually controls the speed of your engine's idle. The valve is sometimes called the idle speed control valve.

I don' believe the headrests can be removed. Aren't the seats all just one piece? You might want to stop by http://www.coloradofans.com and see what many other people have to say about it though. Deuce82 sent you ;)

Listed in owner's manual and under the hood on a placard.

The exhaust pipes in automobileexhaust systems are designed as acoustic resonators that work with the muffler to reduce noise, by making sound waves "cancel each other out"[1]. The "exhaust note" is an important feature for many vehicle owners, so both the original manufacturers and the after-market suppliers use the resonator to enhance the sound. In 'tuned exhaust' systems designed for performance the resonance of the exhaust pipes is also used to 'pull' the combustion products out of the combustion chamber quicker. (From Wikipedia)

3 in front. easily reached from the top. 3 in the back easiest way to see or get at them is from underneath.

If all tires are set to manufacturer's specs about 32-35 psi and they are all equal, it should go out by itself. sometimes the spare tire has a sensor also, so make sure it isn't flat.

I can help in the removal of the rotors on a 93 explorer. I changed mine before and just recently sold my explorer. Are the hubs automatic or manual locking? You might need a tool for both automatic and manual locking hubs. I had automatic hubs I just had to push a button for 4 wheel drive. The tool is a 2-3/8 inch hex lock nut wrench. It looks like a socket but really big. If you need pictures get a manual from an autoparts store. Hanes is the one I had it covered a bunch of years of explorers. Automatic: remove tire and caliper make a mark on the locking hub cover and the wheel hub to align it later pry the retaining rings off the hub cover then slide the cover off using snap ring pliers or a flathead screwdriver pry up the snap ring off of the spindle. It's a c shaped piece of metal that snaps on the spindle in a little groove. You might have to remove some grease to see it. remove the metal axleshaft spacer next. It has teeth on the inside that line up with the grooves on the spindle then pull off a plastic cam from the wheelbearing nut. it has a spring going around it in a groove. it's on pretty tight but it should slide right off with a little rocking backa and forth. Putting it back on is the tough part it can be tricky because the spring forces 3 metal bars down and when you put it back on another set of hands might help. after the cam there are 2 plastic spacers remove them now you need a small magnet to remove the locking key. it's in a little groove inside the locking nut close to the spindle. Place the magnet in front of the hole and the key should pop out onto the magnet Once the magnet is removed you need the Lock nut wrench and a breaker bar or socket to remove the wheel bearing nut if you can't remove it by hand. It should be tightened to 35 footpounds of torque with a torque wrench and then back it off a 1/4 turn then tightened to 16 ft-lbs when putting it back on. Then you have to play with getting the key back in place. Don't tighten it too much or too little it's gotta be somewhere in the middle. I just tightened it up and then had to play with moving the nut so keyhole would line up on the spindle. Once the nut is off the outer wheel bearing will be exposed and the rotor will just pull off. You can check the wheel bearings for wear at this point. If you are getting the rotors cut you might as well remove the inner wheel bearing and wipe all the grease off cuz the dust will get everywhere. Clean the wheel bearings off and make sure you label which was the inner one and outer one. If you replace the wheel bearings you will have to replace the races inside the rotor. If the wheel bearings are good just clean them up repack them and do everything in the reverse.

http://www.mercedesshop.com/Wikka/W140BlowerMotor for directions and locations on all w140 cars. Blower regulator ususally goes bad. $89 e-bay fix. Don't get stuck paying $700 plus to replace the whole thing.

the jack handle is located under the front seat

Standing at the front of the truck and looking at the engine, the cylinder closest to you is number 1, #2 is the 2nd, #3 is the 3rd, # 4 is the 4th and the last is #5

remove the bulb holder from behind the lense (inside the bumper) with a 1/4 turn. replace the bulb and reverse for reinstalation.

It doesn't have one.

lift the boot up and there is a set pin take that out and its off.... future references.... coloradofans.com has eveything you need to know

First of all, there is no "the atomic clock," the timing signal your receive is actually comprised of data from many atomic clocks. A radio signal is generated by NIST in Colorado, partly because a portion of NIST is located in Colorado. Having a more-or-less centrally located radio source maximizes radio coverage in the continental US. There is also an atomic clock ensemble at the US Naval Observatory in Washington DC, which is the timing source for the Department of Defense.

There are small round buttons under the clock that read "H" and "M".

Hold the "H" button in until it changes the hour, do the same with the "M" button to change the minutes.

If this engine is the same as mine (mine is a vortec 4 cyl.), you have to remove the bolts that hold the large plastic piece on the top of the engine (the one that says Vortec on it). This will require removing the hose clamps and hoses. Once that is removed, you should see some square blocks with wires going to them. These are what I call coil packs, not sure of the technical name. These are held with one bolt each. Remove this bolt and the wire going to the coil pack and pull up. The spark plugs are underneath. Mine used a 5/8" spark plug socket to remove the plugs.