Chevy Corvette

5.5 Quarts on the LS2. 6 quarts if you have the z51 performance package. 8 quarts if you have a z06/LS7. It's in the 2007 owner's manual on page 427. Hope that helps.

There is no "inertia switch" like on the FORD's. The fuel pump is activated by a dual circuit... engine's computer (PCM) activates the fuel pump relay which in turn powers the fuel pump & after the engine's oil pressure reaches 4.5 lbs, the oil pressure switch also provides power to the fuel pump. Normally, the PCM will prime the fuel pump for about 3-4 seconds when the ignition key is cycled from "Off" to "RUN". The computer keeps the fuel pump relay on as long as there is a RPM signal going to the computer.

Totally different from the FORD concept where there is a "JAR" switch or inertial switch located in the trunk of most passenger cars & in the passenger's "kick panel" on most trucks. Here the switch is turned off in case of a violent "jolt" to the car ... like a rear end collision.

Typically on the compressor itself although it could also be on the low pressure side from the evaporator line. Look for a "tee" on the low pressure supply line with a wired fitting and that will be it. where is the low side on ford windstar 2002 air conditioner

How bad is "bad"? If it's just stale, siphon as much out as you can get then put in some new fuel and it should work out the problems. Maybe add an additive to clean injectors but it shouldn't take much if it's just old fuel.

On the other hand, if it's been deliberately contaminated, drain as much as you can, pull the tank, clean it with stoddard solvent, clean out the fuel lines COMPLETELY, pull the injector, clean and/or replace it then try to run some stoddard solvent through the fuel pump, then put it all back to gether and see how successful you were.

P215/70R15, P22570R15 or P235/60R15. I prefer the 60 series tire for wider footprint and better overall traction and handling! Firestone Indy 500, raised white letter tire is a good choice and will not break the bank!

Just push the button on gear shift and let off gas thanback on -if everything is working you are in overdrive!

Before I begin troubleshooting your fast idling problem, I need to know something first. Was your car running just fine before this fast idling problem started? Did the problem start suddenly, or slowly get worse over a period of time? Has anyone been working on your car recently? If so, what did they do? Has the intake manifold or either of the 2 fuel injectors been removed? Has the distributor been out just before this started? As I have driven my Cross Fire Injected 82 vette for 21 years, I know a great deal about them. What you are describing sounds like a massive vacuum leak. As the 1800 rpm idle speed will neither increase nor decrease, it's very possible an IAC motor (idle air control motor) pintle valve is stuck. Or you have a severely leaking power brake vacuum hose. Or a blown plastic check valve at the upper end of that power brake hose. Or a split vacuum hose at the MAP sensor. Or either one of the 2 one way plastic vacuum check valves at the upper left rear of the engine has blown apart (from a recent backfire). As an engine CANNOT run without air getting into it from somewhere, we'll look at the different places that air can get in. The most obvious place is through the throttles of the fuel injection units. And the other place is ANY vacuum hose attached to your engine. So the first thing to do is check the connection of every vacuum hose on the engine, and also check the 7/32" hose that goes from the right rear of the left fuel injector body to your MAP sensor (mounted high on the left side firewall. As the MAP sensor has a 1/4" diameter ribbed plastic nipple, and the hose going to it is a VERY CHEAP 7/32" diameter hose stretched over it, the hose is VERY prone to splitting at the MAP sensor. As a loss of vacuum at the MAP sensor throws the MAP sensor and computer into a false sense of being stuck in a wide open throttle condition (extremely rich), the engine will run quite fast if the MAP sensor hose is split. It's very wise to replace that cheap MAP sensor hose with a piece of 1/4" fuel hose, as the fuel hose is internally reinforced, oil resistant, and will last forever. To check out the individual IAC motors (screwed into the left front of each fuel injector body), take a 3/4" diameter wad of modelling clay (or something similar) and shove that wad down into the "wedge" shaped air port located in the top/left of the injector body (with a flashlight aimed down into that air port, you can see the tip of the IAC motor pintle valve at the very bottom/front). If your engine immediately slows down to idle speed or less when you plug that wedge shaped hole, then you have located the source of the excessive air getting into your engine. Do this for each of the two fuel injectors. When an IAC motor does fail, it will most likely fail with it's pintle valve in the "withdrawn" (engine start) position; opening up the round hole in the bottom of the wedge shaped hole, and allowing a LOT of air in. The more air in, the faster it will idle (in normal operation, the IAC motor withdraws the pintle valve when you are cranking the engine, then upon firing the engine, the IAC motor pintle valve quickly moves rearward (into the hole) to restrict the air; then constantly making small adjustments from then on for changing idling conditions). Don't forget to check the EGR valve either, as it can also get stuck in a wide open position and allow a huge vacuum leak. Even though it's very rare, the rubber body that your "S" shaped plastic line pushes into can get "gummy" over the years, collapse shut inside, and trap vacuum in the plastic line; holding the EGR valve in an open position. First, try simply removing that black plastic "S" shaped line (with the 90 degree rubber end) from your EGR valve. If no change, take your fingertips and lift up the diaphragm of the EGR valve and note any change in RPM (you can also put a short hose on it and suck the EGR valve open with your mouth). It's very possible a chunk of carbon is stuck in the EGR valve "seat"..........holding the valve slightly open. An engine backfire can momentarily blow the EGR valve open and stick a piece of carbon in the EGR valve's seat. Another good possibility is a hardened and broken 3/8" vacuum hose where your PCV valve hose attaches to the front of your intake manifold. If your hose is the 27 year old original, it's as hard as a rock by now and possibly broken (if someone has leaned on it recently). As it's a fairly large hose, it is a good canditate for being the source of your problem. A very remote possibility is the 3/8" diameter flimsy vacuum hose that goes to your brake light switch under the dash. Used to disengage your cruise control when you touch the brake pedal, the vacuum in that line is relieved when you touch the brake pedal. If you (or anyone else) has been fiddling under the dash on that side lately, it was possibly removed and not put back in place. Any recent backfire could have blown a vacuum hose off. But the hose most often blown off by 82 Vettes is the large one at the left rear of the right fuel injector body. The one that slips onto the smooth 7/32" diameter unribbed nipple very easily. If that one IS blown off, locate a very small "Corbin" clamp somewhere, and secure the hose back on with that. And backfires will easily blow the vacuum check valves apart as well. I had that happen to one of my small ones at the upper left rear of my engine, and as the hoses going to it are quite stiff and "set" in position, the valve halves appeared to be together. But upon close inspection, the guts were blown out of it and the plastic body halves came back together; appearing to be undamaged. These one way vacuum check valves are glued together, and after 27 years of being exposed to engine heat, the glue finally fails and the body halves come apart. I hope this information helps you.........................

Your best bet on this one is to invest in a repair manual as there are a number of steps to follow as well as torque spec's. You can also find online manuals to download for free.

"StingRay" (one word) emblems first appeared on the 1963. "Sting Ray" (two words) first appeared on the 1968 model.

You have it backwards. The two word Sting Ray was used from 1963 to 1967.

1968 did not use the Stingray name.

In 1969 the Stingray badge came back as one word, "STINGRAY."

need picture of vacum lines and colant line pictures so i can repair my car and also trotel body and cable pictures i have a car with no air line or colant lines and the trotel calbels are not on the trotel so i do not know how to put it back to geter

Bent wheels could be a cause.. Bent from curbs, or bent from tightening & loosening lug nuts improperly.(rare) OR you should have the suspension checked out thoroughly. Most cars are riding on rubber components that have a tend. to wear out. Bushings, Bearings, Axles, shocks you have to check them all.

Remove the water supply hose from the top of your 1984 Chevy Corvette thermostat housing. Remove the thermostat housing retaining bolts. The old thermostat will lift out. Put the new thermostat in and reverse the process.

e-bay has a price range from $100 to $14 000 for 1986 Corvettes

if the cable is broken, go ahead & pull the cable housing out from inside the car. if the inside of the cable remains there (i.e. broke off the handle) then you can use a pair of pliers or vice-grips to pull the cable & pop the hood. if not, it becomes more difficult, but not impossible.

for this, you should really have someone familiar with working on cars doing this. you will need to jack the car up & either put it on stands or ramps (driving a corvette onto ramps --- well, let's just say you shouldn't attempt it unless you don't care about your car). with a very bright flashlight, climb underneath the car about 10 to 12 inches behind the drivers side front wheel. look up with the light near the hood on the drivers side, closest to the windshield. just below the hood, you will see where the hood meets the firewall. there is a round receptacle there with a cable that if you couldn't remove the housing like in the previous step, said housing loops up from the firewall, to near that receptacle. you can have someone very carefully from inside the car, pull on the cable housing so you can identify it. once you see the cable, upon careful inspection, you will notice it attaches to a lever. using a short broomstick or similar device (try to stay away from metal things for this, as you run the risk of shorting something if you just go touching it to everything), push the lever towards the front of the car until you hear it "pop". you will in all likelyhood, have to repeat this procedure on the passenger side, but it is located in the exact same spot on that side, so if you found the drivers one, the passenger side will be the same thing but on that side. once it's open, don't shut it until you replace the cable, or you'll have to jack the car up every time.

Thermostat stuck in closed position?

Not enough coolant added to system?

Fan clutch not operating properly?

Failure to install water pump drive belt on new engine?

Fuel mixture WAY TOO LEAN?

Timing set incorrectly?

Maybe the front chin spoiler is missing? That is a required part--Corvettes are bottom-breathers when rolling.

CHECK THE TIMING

== Shift Knob Removal ==

The shift knob is "keyed" - it only fits on one way, so it's impossible to turn it in either direction without imparing damage to the linkage below the shifter boot.

There is a metal clip at the base of the shift knob. You will have to peel the boot away from this area to access the metal clip. Best to cut the clip, then pry off using channel lock pliers and/or vice grips - It's a battle to get off.

The shift knob will stay in place without that clip, as long as you don't lift upwards.

ON the 2001 model, The lower half of the shift knob pushes downward remove the left side set screw.. and the rear set screw, hiding in the rear upper half. and lift up.

You can remove your serpentine belt by loosening the tensioner pulley. Pushed the tensioner pulley to the right and the serpentine belt can be easily removed.

The Chevy Corvette was named for the corvette, a small fighting frigate.

Mako shark

as much as the driver gives it. it depends on what food they eat like if it's beans it can take a lot if it isn't it cant. :)

NO

They probably chose the wrong value for the resistor in the key. I'd just go to a locksmith and get it done right the first time.

bring out some hammers and a chainsaw