Chevy Corvette

Jump over to Smokinvette.com and get in touch with "Talon90" he will give you a great diagram on how to do that! Good luck!

Courtesy of MACCGP.com

Replacing the HUD Photodiode

by Bill Whitmer

Tools Needed:

Medium to Large Philips screwdriver

Very Small Flat Head screwdriver

T-15 Torx Bit or Driver

25w or less (not more!) Soldering Iron, with fine tip

Vacuum Desoldering Tool

Drill with 15/32" Bit

Small needle nose pliers

Parts Needed:

Very small amount of 1/8" diameter head shrink tubing.

Solder

Replacement Photodiode

2x PDB-C142-ND from www.digikey.com wired in series works well (these look like LED's but they aren't). They are $1.50 each. PDB-V106-ND appears to be almost identical to the original, but it is

a $7 non-stock item with a minimum order quantity of 8.

This write up is for cars where the HUD photodiode is bad and the

resoldering technique doesn't work.

Step 1: Remove HUD Pod from Dash

This can be done by raising the front of the HUD pod by about 1" then

pulling forward to release the quick clips. The quick clips can be tricky

to remove without losing them in the dash. The security LED and auto

headlight sensor simply twist out of their holder.

Step 2: Remove HUD from Dash

First unplug the blue connector from the left side of the HUD module.

Next remove the two Philips screws on the HUD module on the side closest

to the engine bay. The HUD should come out by pulling up on the side

closest to the steering wheel, it still has two quick clips holding it

down. Be careful not to scratch the dashboard when removing the HUD.

Step 3: Disassemble the HUD Module

Remove the four Torx T-15 Screws from the Top of the HUD Module. Remove

the ribbon Cable from the PCB, and the maroon two wire connector also.

Remove the PCB by pushing up on the two clips.

Step 4: Remove the Photodiode

Make sure the soldering iron is at full temperature. Desolder the joints

on the photodiode by heating them up with the soldering iron until they

melt, and using the vacuum desoldering tool while the joint is liquid.

Place the small flathead screwdriver between the photodiode and the PCB.

Again heat up each joint on the photodiode, and use the screwdriver to pry

the photodiode loose. Pry only a small amount on one joint at a time

until the photodiode comes loose, in order not to damage the PCB.

Step 5: Join the new photodiodes (only if using 2 PDB-C142-ND's in series)

The reason to use two photodiodes in series is that these only output .5v,

and the original photodiode outputs 1.00v, the original part number is

BPW21 from Vishay Semiconductor or Infineon, but I have been unable to

find a supplier for this part. Cut the positive (long) leg on one of the

new photodiodes, and cut the negative (short) leg on the other. Cut both

to about 1/4" long. Bend both cut legs 90 degrees. Solder the two cut

legs together. Cover the solder joint with a small amount of 1/8"

diameter heat shrink tubing. Cut the remaining two legs on the

photodiodes to about 1/4". It is very important to remember which one is

positive (originally long) and which one is negative (originally short.

Bend the remaining legs to match up with the photodiode holes on the PCB.

Step 6: Attach the new photodiodes to the PCB

You will need to remove the coating on the PCB where you will be

soldering, it cam be easily scraped off. Melt a small amount of solder in

the holes where the original photodiode was soldered, on the bottom (no

components) side of the PCB. The hole that is closest to the edge of the

PCB is negative, the innermost hole is positive. Attach the photodiodes

by placing the correct leg of the new photodiodes against the correct

hole on the top side of the PCB, and applying heat to the bottom side of

the PCB to melt the solder. Make sure the joint is good.

Step 7: Modify the top HUD module cover (only if using 2 PDB-C142-ND's in series)

The new photodiodes won't fit through the hole on the top cover for the

HUD module. Simply drill out the hole, I used a 15/32" drill bit.

Step 8: Reassemble everything

Put the PCB back in the HUD module, reconnect the two connectors, and

screw it back together. Put the HUD module back in the dash, reconnect

the connector, and put the two Philips screws back in. Now is a good time

to see if the HUD works properly. Replace the HUD pod, first reattach the

auto headlight sensor and security LED, the HUD pod simply presses into

place.

Enjoy having a working HUD again!

Thanks goes out to the people who discovered the photodiode resoldering technique.

The ZR1 is the fastest Corvette made. The C7 has not been designed or produced. Get a ZR1 I love mine.

There are excellent directions on how to do this at Smokinvette.com. To give you detailed directions would be too long, on the site there are pics which make it so much easier!

Mid-America Motorworks sells a Hood Opening Tool (part #609-637) for this. Instructions on how to use it are included.

http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette?frame 3.948

Hi. It can be in various places but I have had 2 cars in and both had the relay under the glove box area. I have repaired many of these cars. What is the problem exactly

SM

Yes you can. I purchased a rebuilt set from Davie's corvettes parts and accessories in 2004. They cost me about $400.00. The old pullies are removed from under the seats and from behind the shoulders of the driver and passenger seats. The car will have manufactured holes in the body to insert the bolts through. Good luck Correct. They're available from almost any Corvette specialty supplier, not just Davie's. I would NOT recommend a used set, EVER, since you really don't know exactly what kind of shape the mechanisms are in. -ku2002 1976 Corvettes came from the factory with shoulder belts, FYI. Anyhow your old ones can be restored to factory new condition by a company called SSnake Oyl. --Dave.

check your fuse box and relay box.

Not knowing any details of your transmission issue, I can only guess as to causes. Over the years, I have personnaly observed two instances of a transmission "jumping out of gear." The first instance involved a standard three speed manual transmission on a straight six engine. When driving in high or second gear, it would stay in gear so long as the engine and drive train was "loaded" under continuing acceleration. But when acceleration was eased off, the the transmission would jump out of gear, going into neutral. On disassembly of the transmission, the cause was determined to be a "disentegrated" SPRING for the detent ball. The second incident involved an automatic transmission on a V-8 enginge. Analysis eventually determined that one of the two farword engine mounts was "separated"/broken, and on "heavy" acceleration, the high torque rotated the engine just enough to pull on the gear selector linkage to cause it to be shifted into the neutral position. This was a "mystery" because everything "looked normal" under static conditions. It took the contribution of longtime mechanic to figure it out. He had us raise the hood to allow observation, put the transmission in drive with the engine running, and then with the brakes firmly applied, to gently, then moderately "rev" the engine. When we did so, the engine would "roll over," lifting the side of the engine which had the broken engine mount, allowing us to actually see the gap of the broken mount, and simultaneously, the transmission would go into neutral, allowing the engine to race until the accelerator was released! Since one end of the selector linkage was attached to the transmission shift arm, and the other to the shift lever attached to the body, the geometry would change with the torque rotation of the engine, "pulling" the transmission out of gear. I can imagine the linkage relationship cause in the second example, as being able to result in the same outcome with a manual transmission. My best guesstimate is that one of your engine mounts is broken, ESPECIALLY if you are prone to "neck snapping" acceleration. Hopefully one of these examples can assist in the diagnosis of your problem.

12 degrees for an automatic.

Technically no, since it only seats 2 it is a "sports car". Most car enthusiasts consider older "big block" powered corvettes, muscle cars.

Depends what year, but if you compare the same model years: Mach 1

Follow the large purple wire from the ignition swiych to the neutral safety switch or the clutch switch and check the power. You may not need to replace the ignition switch.

200

You can purchase a 1957 Chevy Corvette different places. There are some car dealers, used or new, that might have them as traded cars, you can check your newspaper, you might find them at car auctions. There is also many Corvette Clubs, you might try to locate one in your area to see if they can help you purchase one.

remove the fuel fill door and rubber spill guide you will see 10 mm bolts holding filler neck to tank with a gasket in between .makesure you disconnect negative battery lead before any work ib done.carefully pull up on neck and make sure you dont bend fuel sender float. pump is mounted to filler neck. always change fuel filter and and new fuel relay

the corvette would be faster hands down. for one it puts out 300hp oppose to the 275 that the trans am is putting out, its geared differently, and built better. between a 93 and 95 trans am lt1 it all depends on the driver, the cars differences were small things like the opti spark was vented on 95 but not 93. however a 96 or 97 lt1 would be faster because its puttin out 285hp due to the new Y pipe they use.

Toys in the 1950's were much simpler than toys nowadays. Boys mostly played with cowboy themed toys and Barbie made her introduction into the world for girls.

The only way I found was to remove the entire front bumper!

First, I tried removing the head/fog light assembly. Once you pop the hood, there are 2 screws in the top of the assembly, but something was still catching on the bottom.

Next, I removed the wheel and the wheel well plastic, but still could not get access to the rear of the head/fog light assembly.

Finally, I read somewhere that there were 2 screws in the bottom of the assembly behind the bumper! The hardest part about the bumper removal are the two screws inside the bumper near the cornering lights that hold it to the frame. So you need to remove both wheels and enough of the wheel well plastic liner (you can remove the clips to the top and fold the rest back) to get your arm in there. I also had to buy a short pivoting ratchet to get at these ones.

Beyond that, the rest of the screws and clips were accessible from under the hood and below the car. It goes without saying, replace both bulbs! :) Also, you'll want to have some extra body panel clips on hand.

I don't have a writeup, but I took some pictures to help me to remember the next time I have to do it.

http://picasaweb.google.com/briandmel.com/TheFoglight

You might want to try this first:

Driver's side: remove air duct that connects to your air filter box.... then remove air/filter box and intake tube.... takes about 5 minutes.... if that.

From there you have plenty of space to access both the headlight and the fog light.

Passenger side: Remove the windshield wiper snorkel and the coolant reservoir.... this also take about 5 minutes if that.... and it gives you enough room to access the head light and fog light.... the space is a bit more tight to work in but its still enough to get the job done. [Good advice, but it also helps to remove the fuse box that's just in front of the coolant reservoir. That gives you enough room to get to the fog light a lot better. To remove the burnt out light, move the wire clip with the circle of wire on the end towards the front of the car, and it will release. Then raise that wire clip up, which will release the light. Inside the housing for the light, you will find the electrical connection, which is inside a pop-open plastic sleeve. After popping open the sleeve and unhooking the connection, take the old light out, connect the new one, place the connection inside the protective sleeve and put the light into the socket. Then pull down the wire back into its locking position. Test your light. If it works, you're set. Now you're ready to replace the fuse box and coolant reservoir.]

Now if you are doing major headlight work then by all means take off your entire front bumper.... but if your looking for a quick fix these might be a better alternative....

None the less, happy maxxin!!!!!!!!!!!

From Maxima.org

When the hood is stuck you need to push down on the hood just above the "H", sometimes quite hard. Then the hood release will work and open the hood.

the library users were having a hard time in retrieving information..

There are plenty of places in order for one to find out a Ligenfelter Corvvette for sale. However, it is strongly recommended that one should order from the main website of Lingenfelter Corvette.

With a stock cam 700-750 rpm. With a performance cam it can be up to 1200 rpm. With a stock cam 700-750 rpm. With a performance cam it can be up to 1200 rpm.