Chevy Lumina

It's located right underneath the Throttle Body on the 3.1L motor. It's a little thing with wires running out from underneath it.

Check the fuel filter. If it is the original, change it. If that doesn't help, find a mechanic.

Wrong. You don't have to turn and push only turn, the retraction of the piston occurs from the turning action. The rear brakes are attached to the parking brake and unlike the front brakes the rear piston of the caliper is threaded b/c the parking brake ratchets down the caliper locking it.

You can use needle nose pliers to turn the cross-hatched section or do get the right tool for free from Autozone or Advance Auto. Rent the set for free from those guys and get a device that looks like a C-clamp but has a two pronged head on it which grips inside the cross-hatched section of the piston so it can turned in. Remember to turn clockwise and having a 12" pipe to provide leverage for those tight pistons.

I just did my rear brakes on 10/5/08 and both calipers had problems. One side had a stuck sliding bolt which inhibits caliper movement and proper brake function. The other side was a total nightmare b/c the piston was locked; no turning would retract it. I finally resorted to a 12" C-Clamp and pushed it back in...to get the brakes back on for work Monday. This is not good b/c the threads in the piston are locked up=new caliper ~$40. If anyone else does this job be aware that you will probably find more problems than just worn pads and rotors. Start early on a weekend to give adequate time for issues that WILL pop up. Good Luck!

it has to turn and pushed at the same time

That year model did not use are have a crank sensor.

The fuse box is on the passenger side of the dash board open the passenger side door and you will see it on the side

after start car smell gas why?

Brake pads are fairly simple to replace.In my experiece's,I've always used a 4 inch C-clamp to keep the brake piston from pushing out due to the brake system's pressure.It's only on 1 side of a caliber and is what the caliber uses to squeeze against the rotor and stop the car. When you take the caliber off it's bracket and remove it from around the rotor to replace the pads,you'll never get it back on without pushing the brake cylinder back.This is due to the extra "meat" on the pad. Un-bolt the caliber and take the old pads off and you'll see the side where the piston is.It's about the size of a silver dollar.It's that side you'll need to screw the C-clamp on after the new pads have been put on.Screw the clamp against the brake pad where the piston is behind until you're able to slide the caliber back onto the rotor.Take the clamp off as soon as it slides on and bolt the caliber back on.Very simple.

also on the rear calipers you will need to spin the piston to get it to decompress. i did this with a big pair of vice grips and a C clamp. tighten up C clamp and spin piston clockwise with vice grips, repeat until the piston is in far enough to put brake pads back on and fit on rotor.

NOTE: When using the C-clamp on a caliper to push the piston back in, do not have the NEW pad on the piston. Leave the old one on (or put it back on) and use the OLD one to push the piston back. Don't chip up the surface on new one!

Had to disconnet my radio it was shorting out the engine.

the size verrys the lumina`s had 14in 15 in and the 3.4 euro opp was 16 i think it is something like 215 60 16

behind the engine

The 3.4 twin cam 24v engine was an optional motor to the 3.1 base model. And the 3.4 was standard to the Lumina Z34 and LTZ model which was later phased out for the 3800.

HAYNES REPAIR MANUAL covering 1995-2001 Lumina, Monte Carlo, and Impala (FWD) page 2A-1 states...cylinder location (engine--the part where you put the spark plugs) when looking from the front of the vehicle the cylinders are numbered from left to right 2-4-6 (front part of engine); 1-3-5 left to right (rear of engine). Firing order 1-2-3-4-5-6. At the other end of the spark plug wire you should find a "bank" which matches the spark plug wire with the corresponding port. The "bank" from left to right when standing in front of the vehicle is 5-2-3-6-4-1. Spark plug wires should be from number 1 cylinder to number 1 on the bank. Then number 2 cylinder to number 2 on the bank, etc.

It's 1-2-3-4-5-6 and that's from the owners manual of a 97 lumina.

Its tough, but I cut the old factory ball joint in half to get the lower half out of the control arm and the upper half cut and air hammered off the knuckle arm. The replacement did not involve any rivits, just nuts and bolts.

The tools needed are a air hammer gun, air gun, a cut off disc tool(grinding disc), a pry bar, wratchet and various sockets for installation of new ball joint.

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The ABS light coming on sometimes is most likely a wheel speed sensor going bad. Call your local auto parts store to find out how much $ they are for your car. The only way to tell for sure is to have the computer checked by someone when the light is on. I have no idea if that car has an airbag or not. Sorry. This car does not have an airbag.

the gap is .060

Most reputable car audio dealers offer (a means to determine, if the stereo you want to buy, will actually fit your car) You may want to check the car stereo manufacturers web site for this info. Once you know it will fit, you can purchase "trim kits" from places like WalMart or just about any car audio store. These kits are made to fit the front and sides of you new audio equipment so the new equipment will fit the old radio opening. Follow the trim kit instructions for YOUR vehicle carefully . There are parts in the trim kits that are meant for a multitude of vehicles, so don't be surprised with the all of the extra parts you end up NOT using. You may also need to purchase a wiring adapter assembly. (The old radio power/speaker wiring connector in the vehicle wiring harness is unlikely to work in your new stereo. The adapter converts your existing wiring to a connector that will work with your new stereo. These are available at the same stores mentioned above. The trim kit I used for the SuperTuner in my 90 Lumina worked really well and surprisingly, didn't take long to install. Take your time though!! The effort is worth it. There is nothing more unattractive than an ill-fitting stereo in an oversized, jagged hole in you dash!

On the back side of the harmonic balancer and onr bolt holds it into the timing cover

Behind left hand side of the instrument panel, mounted in the bulkhead

Only if have the "smokers" package option

blood pessure

Remove both battery connectors, let sit for 15 minutes, replace battery connectors. Note that when getting the car inspected they can see that the codes have been reset via this method and will make you drive it until it has a chance to bring the codes back up (last car I did this with it was 70 miles they made me drive it before they'd inspect it again). There is no way to get them removed for inspection purposes, most places (Advance Auto, Auto Zone) will reset the codes for you, but as I said anytime codes are reset and you go to get it inspected they'll just make you drive it till the light comes back on.

Hey Evelyn==There is no reset button. Go to auto zone and have the codes removed for free. GoodluckJoe

Its against the law for them to remove any codes, if nothing appears to be wrong, double check all the wiring, also if the gas cap isn't on right, or its not the right size, it will cause that light to come on. Due to "environment" issues. They can tell you what the problem is, but won't remove the code.

Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active. Disconnecting the battery can create other headaches and will not likely solve your dilemma.

The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances by the public. This is an needed in-depth understanding for the public. It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. Don't get a hard on against it as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights� that are set based on a pre-set mileage.

it is located on the back side of the throttle body. the unit is held in by two Torx type screws. Please visit my BIO for a link to my website. there is a picture under the Sensors and Relays folder for your application. the IAC is highlited in blue

Yes it will

Could be anything electrical. Coil. Wires Grounding WELL any wire grounding out.

one option is that the thermostat is sticking, and that wont let the coolant circulate. if the coolant cant circulate, it will overheat the engine. also there could be a plug in the line somewhere which also will not allow the coolant to flow properly. If there is a plug, it can be dislodged by accelerating hard to force the coolant through. also, when the car starts to heat up, check under the hood to see if the fans are running. If all fails, check for intake manifold gasket leaks, hose leaks, and oil leaks, Be sure all fuses are working and in good condition. Simple overheating conditions are usually caused by bad fan fuses. You'll know if the fans are working when the A/C is turned on, If the fans Do Not turn on then it needs to be checked.