Chevy Tracker

Disconnect the negative battery cable for a couple of minutes then reconnect. This will erase any trouble codes stored in the car's computer. If everything is okay, the CHECK ENGINE light will stay off. If everthing is okay, it wouldn't be on. If you disconnect the basttery on the newer toyotas, you may blow the air bag. The is no reset switch, get it diagnosed. Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active. Disconnecting the battery can create other headaches and will not likely solve your dilemma. Best bet is to contact the local snap-on dealer and have him refer you to a known good shop that specializes in this technology-he will know. The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances by the public. This is an needed in-depth understanding for the public. It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. Don't get a hard on against it as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights

I own a 1998 tracker and the guy at the dealership showed us to pull the emergency brake up just a notch or two from the release position and they will go off and supposedly it's not wearing on your brakes. Try it and see. I always drive with my lights on anyway.

You don't want to pull up on the ebrake,i own a 2003 and on the dash rihgt side this is little disc shape cover pry it up and disconnect the sensor that's for automatic lights. under the dash there is a plug near the console . Go to Google and do a search "how to disable DRl lights" That's where i found it

Solution:

I did the E-Brake trick and it worked, until I did my rear brakes. Even the one notch ended up to be too tight and would drag. I deliver newspapers and drive on the wrong side of the road so turning off the lights is absolutely necessary to avoid confusing drunk, sleepy, or elderly drivers. Without turning off my headlights, they try to go to my left, and almost drive into the ditch.

Here is what I have done: Remove the daylight sensor from on top of the dash, on the passenger side. It just pops out and disconnect the sensor from the cable. Next, disassemble the center console. There are just a few screws, and it lifts up and off the shifter. Remove the power connector for the Aux jack. Now I took a jumper wire with alligator jacks on both ends, and grounded the emergency brake sensor. This tricks the computer into thinking you've pulled the lever. Just route the jumper wire to avoid interference with anything, and use micro zip-ties to hold it in place if necessary. I personally used a very heavy gauge solid strand jumper wire, which was very short. I just bent it into shape and it hasn't moved. Now reassemble your console. Your BRAKE light will stay on, but there are no other ill effects. I have also passed NYS inspection without having to disconnect the jumper wire, so you should be good there, also.

The fan motor located in front of the radiator is made of steel and the rust swells the metal and is jammed up on the inside of the plastic fan blade which wraps part way around the motor. I've seen this problem twice now.

The fuel pump relay on a 1991 Chevy Tracker is located on the driver's side of the vehicle under the dash. It is in the wiring harness that is just above and to the left of the brake pedal.

We recently replaced the serpentine belt on our 2003 Chevrolet Tracker. We were able to place a wrench (I believe it was 9/16") on the tensioner pulley and apply pressure so the pulley released tension on the belt. This however did no allow enough slack to install the new belt so we removed the idler pulley at the top center of the engine. With the idler pulley removed we were able to route the belt and with the tension released on the tensioner pulley, routed the belt under the idler pulley and reinstalled the idler pulley, then released the tensioner pulley and the belt was installed. Be sure to note the exact route of the old belt before removal so the new belt follows the same path. Hope this helps.

Under to black rubber caps on the very top of the engine. Remove the black caps and the plugs are reset about 4 inches down.

The fan motor itself may have burned out. The fuse that runs this fan may also be blown and need replaced.

Trouble code P0102 means:Mass or volume circuit low input

The low pressure port is located on the left side of the car towards the back of the engine compartment. It was a blue cap on it with a capital L.

Dot 3----this is the fluid that is sold everyware buy on price as there is no such thing as bad brake fluid

This is not a "kick-down" cable per my tranny mechanic. This cable goes to a transmission fluid pressure valve and will burn up your transmission if not changed immediately....

the locks may be seized or just need to be locked and unlocked until they are freed up. If the jeep has sat for some time just try manually locking and unlocking each door.

I just did this in my 1998. Hopefully this will help.
To begin, I'll explain the back because they were easier. First you remove the third brake light cover. Hint, if it has little clip-like things, push them in to make them removable. Once removed, there are a couple of bolts that hold the light in place. They will have to be removed in order to remove the deck cover. Next, lower the seats so that you can see into the trunk. This will make some snap-in parts to the deck cover viewable. Remove those and you should be able to remove the deck cover. There are four screws holding the speakers down. I used a 1/4" ratchet with a 1/4" socket and a #2 fillips screwdriver bit to remove the screws because the rear glass limits the height of a screwdriver. Once the screws are removed, you can replace the speakers with the new ones and replace everything you removed.
Now, for the bigger pain, although not the most difficult I've ever had to change. The front speakers are located in the doors of the ZX2, so to remove them, you have to remove the panels. This can be done with a flat-head screwdriver, a fillips, and possibly a socket and ratchet (I can't remember). To begin, you'll have to remove the window crank. If you pull out on the crank a little bit (don't break it off), and push the panel in some, you should see (remember that mine is a 1998) a metal clip that holds the crank handle on. The clip is shaped like an ohm symbol found on speakers and amplifiers. If you're not familiar with those, they resemble a partial circle. Anyway, you can use the flat-head or something similar (I used my ignition key) to simply push the clip off of the crank. Once the clip is off, the crank will slide right off of the gear. Next, there are two screws by the door handle that reinforce the handle so that you don't rip it off each time you shut the door. They are hidden by small inserts that resemble the panel itself. These just pop out to reveal the screws. Once the screws are removed, there are some snap-in, hold-in-things similar to those in the rear deck behind the seats. One is located by the hinges toward the top of the panel and two are located on the side of the door by the latch itself. The ones by the latch can be loosened with a screwdriver and then carefully popped out. Look for any others to make sure you don't break them. Next, push the lock down and slowly pull the panel away, making sure to guide the interior door opener out as you remove the panel. This may require some jiggling, but, if you have to, you may unsnap the dress-up piece around the opener. It's not hard to snap back in. Once the panel is off, the speaker should be clearly visible and easy to remove. Once replaced, just put everything back together and make sure the clip that holds the window crank on is completely secured.
I know that the years are different, but I sure hope that this has helped. My new speakers sound great and make for a better music experience. Write mota021985@yahoo.com if you have any other questions. Good luck!

my wifes tracker did the same thing. the cable came loose under the left side of the passenger seat right at the transmition hump under the dash a little bit. I didnt even have to remove any trim pieces

The best thing to to with a car cigarette lighter is get rid of it. I had one start a fire in a car once. After that I have never left a cigarette lighter in a car. I throw them away. You could save it incase you ever sell the car and someone wants it. It is best not to let anyone smoke in your car or boat pilot house anyway. The light from a cigarette interferes with your night vision. Also the smoke gets on the windshield and streaks it up. Also if someone is smoking around you I am sure you don't want to breath in all that crap. If some turkey has to smoke it is best to tell them to take it outside.

The oil pump on these vehicles is located behind the timing chain cover. The oil pump is driven off of the front of the crankshaft.

It's bolted to the back of the cylinder head (right side when facing engine) inside a casing....it has an electrical connector on it and it's attached to this casing by one bolt. Unplug the electrical connector, unbolt the sensor and replace in reverse...

I have 96 2wheel drive has 205600 onh it still great little care no major repairs on it in its life so far one fuel injector water pump and alternator expect to get 300 plus uses no oil and great on gas losey winter car in 2 wheel thought

Loss of power and mpg. The check engine light should also come on.

the check engine light will not come on if the catalytis converter is going bad..it will however get very hot and start to glow red.

The check engine light will illuminate with a bad cat if the vehicle has a post catalytic (downstream) O2 sensor.

Hi, On your car it most likely is under the left side of the dash. All that I've been able to find are two locations, under the dash on the left(usually newer) and the left (usually older). You'll be able to locate it easily as it will be the flat box object with some large many-wired cables going int it. Good luck. Steve H.

This is the answer for a 2004 model:

In the trunk on the top there are two straps that look like they go on a back pack. You need to pull those down and it undoes a latch on the back of the seats.

http://www.kick-fix.com/t-belt/tbelt.html

on back of engine behind the flex plate.

Its pretty easy, pop the white snaps in the trunk to release the cover, I used a 1/4 socket as a pin-pusher, then use a flat head screwdriver to gently "lift" the assembly out of where it sits from the back seat. Be careful because its all plastic, but even if you break some of the clips it still goes back in just fine

There are little levers you have to pull and push them forward.... these are located on right and left side from trunk access.