Chevy Vans

Well of course one of the marks is a line/groove knotched on the harmonic balancer, and the other mark (the tab with the numbers) is on the timing cover behind the water pump. You are supposed to be able to see it from the topof the engine, while looking down through the back of the water pump, but I have a 1994 GMC van and I don't see how you have the room to get in there to see it. That's my problem.

U don't u pay a professional,brakes are not for amateur mechanics

I personally have blue converse and checkerboard vans, the checkerboard vans are better in my opinion because much less people have them and they make me feel cool :P

Try replacing the plugs and wires

it is ALDL, or some call it OBD1. It is easier to pull trouble codes off of using a paper clip rather than using a scanner. There is alot of info on the web if you google ALDL

On early (1978)Chevy Vans you access the heater core thru the small hood in front of the Van. On the left side locate the two heater core hose's and observe the cover that holds the blower motor and core. Remove the bolts that secure the cover to the firewall and pry the cover loose. You may have to disconnect the heater blower motor electric plug. Some covers were sealed shut with some type of adhesive and the cover may require a considerable amount of prying to free. Installation is reverse of the remove and new hoses and clamps are always a good idea.As far as heater core R-N-R'S not a very difficult job.

You will need a steering wheel puller and a steering lock removal tool You rent them at yourlocal auto parts store

code 35 is IAC (idle air control) motor. it controls the engines idle speed automatically. code symptoms poor idle (too low or too high) stalling at stop lights.poor cold start.the motor is mounted on the throttle body. you can remove it and try to clean the carbon off of pintle valve with carb cleaner and a rag do not saturate motor with cleaner.

I use to drive a 1988 custom van from Nashville Tn. to Cincinnati Ohio and to Lexington Ky. The 305 got about 11 city and around 13 hwy. This was a new van. Later that year, a new 350 was installed. It increase the milage to 12 city and 15 hwy. That is sometime back, but that is how I remember it. The 350 did not have to work as hard and was more enjoyable to drive.

Its hard to tell exactly, but if you look at the hoses and metal tubes of the a/c system you can tell. Find the small hard line running from the condenser (radiator looking thing in the front) follow it until you find a connector where it goes from that small line to a larger line and your orifice tube will be located there.

Hope this helps.

code 15 is coolant temperature circuit {low temperature} Im also trying to source exactly what this problem equates too as im currently trying to help a friend with the same code problem on his 1994 astro awd !

On my 2000 Astro AWD, the engine would die. I could then turn the ignition key to off wait 5 secs then start the engine back up. No code was ever set. Fought this problem for 2 years, as it would only happen the the summer. I put a new fuel pump in the gas tank and solved the problem. The thermal overload on the pump was bad causing the fuel pump to turn off.

The rear oil seal on any automotive engine is located at the rear of the crankshaft, which is usually only accessible once the oilpan is removed. The exceptions to this rule concerning the oilpan still involve removal of the flywheel or flex-plate to gain access, as these seals are installed from the exterior of the crankcase onto the crankshaft.

it is 18435672.

The power steering fluid reservoir is up on the passenger side wheel well in the engine bay. Looks like a short fat silver coke can with hoses coming out of it. On a side note, the 300zx twin turbo uses ATF (automatic transmission fluid) not power steering fluid.

usually a green casing with black top. the following link is NOT a 300zx, but the reservoir is about the same.

http://www.sillbeer.com/images/engine/power-steering-reservoir.jpg

The Fuel tank has to be removed to change the pump assembly. Fuel pump assemblies are EXPENSIVE from the dealer ($500 plus) but far cheaper online ($100) at auction sites. Its a 3 hour job for the novice with regular hand tools (socket set, wrench set, Torx set)

most of the work can be done under the hood but there is a bolt low and under the back ot the alt. that u have to take out the dog house to get at pull the seats all the way back two bolts on the floor and two latchs on top the dog house has to be rolled out top first pull back tensioner & remove belt can't remember if 2 or 3 bolts in front of alt. just take your time the dog house gave me the biggest fits

The rear condenser and blower moter are located, behind the right rear wheel area, inside the van. Look for return air vent. They are installed behind the vent housing.

Sounds like a short in your blinker circuit. There could be a cracked or damaged wire somewhere between your lamps and the fuse box, a damaged bulb, or a bad blinker relay. You can trace the problem using a multimeter. You might be able to reduce your troubleshooting in half by noting if its the left or right side turn signal that blows your fuse and work on only that side. Good luck.

ALL Chevy V-8 engines,small or big-block,the firing order is...

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 with clockwise rotation of dist. rotor

I have the 1987, and according to my manual it's 10,000 lbs. It may have changed by 1991, but this should give you a good idea.

first check to see if the fuse to the lighter is blown, if not just replace the removable part of the lighter. ( Heating element )

Located on right front fender tower in black box the relays are labeled.

To remove/replace the engine on a mid-90's G series van, you must remove everything in front of the engine, from grill to radiator, and remove it from the front. You may need to remove the motor mount to crossmember bolts to allow the engine to move forward. It is best to keep the transmission bolted to the engine, as it will be easier to align, etc when you are ready to reinstall it. Keep in mind all the lines and wires will need to be disconnected, too. Get a Chilton bok and use it for reference.

TO THE LEFT OF THE DISTRIBURTOR ITS ABOUT 3 INCHES LONG AND ROUND CANT MISS IT IT ALSO RUNS YOUR FUEL PUMP IF YOUR FUEL RELAY GOES BAD