Clutches and Flywheels

Just bleed at the slave cylinder. It so easy, it takes 5 or 6 pumps but does need two people. One on the clutch pedal and one on the bleed valve. The person on the clutch pedal pumps a few time whilst you have the bleed valve open. Ask them to push the pedal to floor and hold.

Close the bleed valve and then ask them to release their foot of the pedal.

Open the valve and ask them to repeat the procedure again When pure fluid comes out make sure their foot is hard down and close off the bleed valve. Full clutch pressure will now be available.

Cheers

Jim from Oz

what are the torque specs for the flywheel on a 92 ford ranger?

Most bleed proceedures are the same. Have an assistant push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there. Then loosen the bleed valve on the slave cylinder under the vehicle.This is the device which disengagesthe clutch. Now check the fluid level. Usually there is a seperateresevoir for the clutch, separate from the brake master cylinder. Make sure you keep this full, or air will be in the line again. Youmight need to bleed it twice.Good luck.

An easy way is to get some clear air hose(from a fish tank) the size of the nipple on the bleeder screw and push it on the bleeder. Then get a clean can and fill it half way with fluid and stick the other end of the hose in the can. Now open the bleeder and pump the clutch petal a few times. Make sure to watch the fluid level in slave cylinder resiovur. When there is no air bubbles in the clear hose tighten the bleeder and your done.

To adjust a clutch you fire three rounds at the gas tank. Then you throw a lit match into your 240sx's upholstery. For best results, climb under the car at this point. Have a friend nearby to collect the remnants of the clutch and gearbox. Careful, it will be hot.

there is no such thing as clutch fluid

He means the fluid for the clutch master cylinder resovoir. Its just to the side of the brake fluid resovoir and usually takes dot-3 brake fluid, just twist off the cap and poor it in.

you gotta pull the tranny off and it will be right there on the inside of bell housing im not sure what holds it on it may be bolts or it may be just sitting on a couple dowls no need to take clutch off

The parts store is asking you if you want your new compressor to have the clutch already on it or do you want to install one yourself. They all have clutches on them and they are most times quite difficult to remove so I would say get the one with the clutch on and avoid the headaches.

You could, however it is the throttle control that makes the turn work.
You need to look ahead and plan your turn, then get on the brakes to slow your speed. You should allready have found an apex and looking at your exit. A SLOW hand on the throttle makes a faster safer rider.

Remember that centrifugal force helps keep the bike UP. Having the clutch in means there is decreasing centrifugal force and the bike wants to fall.

You should reak Keith Codes books and get some track time in.

Sounds like there's something wrong with the clutch alright. My S-10 did the same thing and it was the pressure plate. I suppose it's possible the throw out bearing is causing the problem but since you'll have to pull the tranny to check it, might as well replace the whole thing while you're there. This actually sounds like more of a transmission problem than a clutch problem. You may have broken one of the gears. First and second are linked as are third and fourth. This would be why only two of the gears are causing you problems.

first of all, make sure its your clutch. You will have to drop the tranny which will involve removing your front drive train. (both axles) Your clutch will be bolted to the ring gear on your engine, but you cant just change your clutch. You should also change your pressure plate,release bearing, pilot shaft bearing or, in some cases, it might be a bushing buddy its not a small job. I hope this helps good luck

All clutches are replaced the same, you must separate the engine from the transmission, unbolt the old one from the pressure plate and place the new one on and align it with the alignment tool ( many new clutches come with one or you may need to buy one) and torque the bolts down. ( before assembly you may want to replace the pilot bearing/bushing it is in the center of the pressure plate). Next you replace the throw out bearing and reassemble the engine and trans. A Haynes manual will have detailed instructions and photos to help you, I strongly suggest that you get one.

I'm not sure what you mean by limited slip unless only a few? I have a 2005 dodge 1500 RT and have not seen another one like it. I was wondering if it was the only one that was made? I have tried to research this truck but come up empty.

You use the clutch to change gears or stop. Not necessary when slowing down.

Remove clutch cable connection and then remove slave cylinder line from master. Then unbolt slave master and remove it. Follow same procedure in reverse order.

Difficulty shifting, can't reach first gear and grinds to reverse, have to stomp on the brakes to downshift, basically any sort of unusual difficulty with shifting, car jumps forward when clutch is engaged or moves while on a flat surface and clutch is engaged.

you have a clutch damper on the left side of firewall,it has a bleeder screw,bleed this one first,you have a clutch slave cylinder ,bolted on the side of transmission ,that has rubber cover,it has a bleeder screw,do this one last,have someone pump clutch pedal afew times and hold to floor and open one valve at a time till no more air,make sure you dont let the fluid get to low while bleeding,use a clear hose over the bleeder screw and a glass of brake fluid.good luck.

185 foot pounds

simplicity, ease of maintenance (no lubricating cables), better feel (because usually cables need to be lubed and therefore have much friction), more reliable. Disadvantage is it's expensive, hard to bleed, occasionally master and slave cylinders needs rebuilding. Overall, hydraulic is the way to go.

Yes.

yes it can because that means the chain/belt is not getting good grip so that means the motor would slip causeing it to fail

This may not be what you mean but the clutch control lever is adjusted by setting the adjustment on the cable. You should see an adjustment half way down the cable (It may be covered by a rubber boot). To adjust it you loosen the nut and then turn the other part until the clutch is the way you want it. You can squeeze the clutch and change gears at different settings to see what is best for you. When it handles the way you like, tighten the nut to hold the setting.

Only if the reservoir was completely empty allowing air to get into the system wil you need to bleed the clutch. If you are not sure if air has entered the system just try putting it into gear (make sure you have an open space around you for you may not be able to take the vehicle out of gear, in this case, shut it off). If air has entered the system the pedal might feel mushy, the gears may grind when shifting, or you may not be able to get the vehicle out of gear easily. If any of these happen, air has got into the system and it needs to be bled.

Hayden

slave cylinder has gone bad or you are out of hydrolic fluid

It's like a brake job, infact the bleeder is the same size as the brake bleader. Find the clutch slave cylinder at the transmission. It on the passenger side and at the front. You should be able to trace the line and/or see where the clutch fork comes out to it. You will probably need to pull the intake piping off (I have turbo and not the NA so not sure for your model). Fill up the master (at firewall) with new fluid. Have a buddy pump it up (with hand if that far gone). Then have him hold it to the floor. Crack the 8mm bleader and close. The keep repeating

answer

ALL HYDRAULIC CLUTCH ON CARS ARE ALL DA SAME THE KEYS ARE MAKE SURE THE FLUID LINES CONNECTED TO YOUR SLAVE AND MASTER CYLINDERS ARE ALL TIGHT WHATEVER TECHNIQ YOU CAN DO TO PROPERLY TIGHTEN THEM AND NO LEAKS,AFTER THAT IF THERES NO MORE LEAKS HAND PUMP VACUUM BLEEDER IS ONE OF THE KEY FROM SLAVE BLEEDER SCREW,AND THATS YOU JUST GOT YOURSELF A DEALER CLUTCH & UNTIL THE PARTS ARE EXPIRED, THE ONE OF THE MAIN THING TO REMEMBER IS IF YOU CAN PREVENT TO BLEED THEM JUST ONCE ONLY DO IT PERFECT,IT WILL GUARANTEED DEALER CLUTCH.WITHOUT PROBLEMS UNTIL THEY EXPIRED,

It is interesting that you ask this, i have just experienced the same symptoms in my 2000 Rio. i continued to adjust the clutch cable, assuming that it had stretched however this was only a temporary fix and the proplem continued to get worse. Eventualy i lost all use of the clutch (dangerous situation when in traffic!!) what i found was the bracket at the pedal end of the cable had actually bent and fractured, this caused the clutch cable to break through its retainer. Not an easy problem to fix either, the cable retainer is one unit that holds all pedals and attaches to the fire wall and needs to be totally replaced!

I strongly advise that you check this part carefully top ensure that yours is not bending as well, otherwise you risk losing use of your clutch unexpectedly!

Hope that helps.