Clutches and Flywheels

don't try to put trans fluid on clutch. manual tranny uses 40wt oil.

There can possibly be no major problem with changing a throw-out bearing, as long as you do your homework first. Probably the most difficult of the whole project will be removing the transmission. All you need to do is make sure you have enough room underneath the truck to bring the transmission out. Take your time undoing all the bolts and remember to support the transmission while doing so. Once the trannys out its pretty straight forward from there to remove the throw-out bearing, just follow your service manual. To install, just reverse the removal steps.

This may depend on why you are replacing the cable. If the cable broke at the clutch end, then you'll simply remove that part, keeping the washers, etc. from that end. If not, then you'll need to use a screw driver to remove it (Look just BEHIND the plastic housing on the top of the motor and you'll see what looks like a wormy-looking piece of rubber... this is near the end of your cable.)

After you remove that, you need to get under your clutch pedal and pop the pin that holds it in place (unless this is why you're replacing it, then it MAY be detached, but not necessarily.)

Once you've detached both ends, you'll need to pull the cable through the fire-wall. Keep track of which washers, etc. go where and what end goes where, although it outta be pretty easy once you find the clutch cable!

Put the new cable through the firewall, then attach the cable to the pedal under the steering wheel. You'll need to put the new pin back through the back of the clutch pedal.After you're done with that, under the hood (there's also an adjustment there, and you want the clutch to fully engage OR you can damage your clutch driving it without adjusting it properly!) you'll need to reattach that end of the clutch cable, THEN BE SURE TO ADJUST IT PROPERLY!

When you push the clutch pedal, the clutch should fully engage (With the pedal fully depressed, the car should NOT be in gear at all!). You can get away with a little bit of driving with it somewhat out of adjustment, BUT you do NOT want to drive it if it it's too loose or too tight (generally it's best to start off a little loose, then tighten it until it's right where it outta be, and you can feel it... there outta be no slippage whatsoever! If so, it's too loose.

Best to you and all the other Subie owners out there! The best cars on the road! :)

Hope this helps!

Check Clutch master and slave cylinders

try to make sure the clutch pedal is all the way down before you change gear. in no way shape or form should you have to floor the clutch everytime you shift gears, however, if you are still grinding gears while flooring the clutch, and if there isn't that little bit of give on the pedal i'd suggest adjusting or replacing the clutch.

A line in the clutch hydraulic system, specifically the only flexible one.

Can be worn out synchronizing rings.

The clutch master cylinder on a Chevy S10 is replaced by disconnecting the metal lines, unscrewing the retaining bolts, and removing it from the housing. A new master cylinder can then be put into place and reattached.

brake fluid resivoir. just make sure you use DOT 4 brake fluid.

drop the tail shaft

loosen g/box mounting brackets (all 8 bolts)

remove muffler bolts (later models only)

push muffler to the side to clear way for g/box

disconnect plugs that go from engine to g/box

undo all but 3 bellhousing bolts

place jack under gear box an support its weight (proper g/box jack)

completey remove mounting bolts and brackets

remove 3 bellhousing bolts that were left in earlier

remove gear box by pulling back from engine, lower to ground, move aside for removal of clutch

remove clutch, flywheel check selector bearing on input shaft (on the gearbox shaft)

replace if necessary

remove and replace spicket bearing and rear main seal (lubricate inside of seal)

ensure to install spacer in newly machined flywheel befor installing spicket bearing

install flywheel

bolt tightening to 1st stage 60 nm then 135 nm then nintey degree turn (use a 3/4 breaker bar and a special benze socket for this)

install clutch 60nm on bolts

reinstall gearbox ensuring timing sensor located on lhs top of flywheel is pushed in

re connect all wiring harness, re attach g/box brakcets (use long breaker bar)

attach tail shaft (tight)

re attach muffler

done

answer

gottransmission.com rebuilt trans if your planning to keep your car,just search how to install then you gain years

I re-powered mine with a 24hp Honda Twin Cylinder form Northern Tools in Richmond, Virginia. You will have to drill holes in the tractor frame. the mounting bolts are different. Wiring can be a little tricky. The wiring scheme is different from the original. Other than that, the engine is a-w-e-s-o-m-e. But be careful, the power is scary.

actually changing the clutch itself only takes 30mins to an hour, but in order to change the clutch you need to raise the car and raise the engine further, on an average car, meaning the engine in the front you can expect it to be around 4 hours maybe 5, but for your beetle depending on whether the mechanic has done it before you could be looking at 5 maybe 6 hours, and if your thinking of doing it yourself, a word of advice as an ex mechanic DON'T, people don't realise how easy it is to mess up, I hope I've helped

Either the clutch master cylinder or the clutch slave cylinder or the clutch hydraulic lines are leaking.

Just disassembled the master cylinder on my Mazda B2000. It had rusty looking gunk in it and had formed rusty brown deposits on the cylinder wall. It was working in spite of this until the rubber of the primary cup split. Rebuilt the slave cylinder not long ago and it was gunked up worse than the master cylinder. Had to remove some crusty deposits to get the piston and cups out of the cylinder.

Well, honey, the flywheel torque setting for a Toyota 2E engine is typically around 87-101 Nm. But hey, if you're gonna be messing around with flywheels, make sure you double-check that spec in the manual. Wouldn't want your engine falling out on the highway now, would we?

Clutch disc is worn out. Not knowing what vehicle you have, most are hydraulically operated and there is no adjustment. Time for clutch replacement.

If you really need to ask this question? Then, I suggest you take your car to A repair shop. It is not easy to do this job, And if you are not experienced in pulling motors and trannys it will be A very difficult job.

what is a vr commodore? If it is an automobile it willl be like any other. Yo first have to gain access to it, (located on the end of the crank) Remove the radiator after you drain it, the serpentine belt and then use an impact gun heavy enough to supply at least 250 pounds of torque. Find out wich size bolt the balancer has in the center (15/16,3/4?) use an impact socket to turn the bolt out. Now get a harmonic balancer pulley Take the arms of the pulley to the outer edges of the balancer and the bolt on the pulley will go into the center of the pulley. Run the impact inward, wich will pull the pulley outword and it will fall off. NOTE: there may be a windrift key in there Place the new balancer on the end of the crank and line up with the windrift key , start by pushing inplace, tap with a hammer, then use the original bolt and impact and as you screw the bolt in the balancer will come with it. Tap the key back in place and give it a good looking ove to make sure the balancer is all the way ddown. Repklace the belts, install and fill the radiator, make sure he radiator gets burped for any air in the system,(fill it and run till temp comes up) after a coll down period, pop the radiator cap and top off again.

check for leaks

if there is a clutch adjustment on car, adjust the clutch if no adjustment, you will shortly need to replace the clutch

The slave cylinder has failed and will need replaced.

if you put a flywheel on that was not the same as the old one then it is probably going to be done again and replaced with the correct one.

what are the torque specs for the flywheel on a 92 ford ranger?

If there were no operating clearance the clutch release bearing would constantly be in contact with the spring diaphragm causing wear on both the diaphragm and the bearing itself, also the bearing pushing on the diaphragm could cause the clutch friction plate to not be fully engaged and slip.