Clutches and Flywheels

I dont know about changing the clutch, but I can tell you that they are adjustable! I just had mine adjusted!

I pulled the engine, had no vehicle hoist so lifted the engine out. Worked real well as all the clutch parts are in front of you while engine is in the air; except throughout bearing.

It is much easier to remove the transfer case and tranmission, rather than removing the engine. Here is the procedure:

Disconnect battery ground cable. Remove shift control lever Remove console box, then console box bracket. Push gear shift control case cover down with fingers, then turn it clockwise, and remove shift control lever, Remove shift control lever following the same procedure. Remove transfer case shift control knob. Remove breather hose from attaching clamp at the rear of the engine cylinder head. Remove wiring harness clamp from the rear of intake manifold, then disconnect wiring harness connector. Remove starter, then engine to transmission retaining bolts. Drain oil from transmission and transfer case if front propeller shaft is to be removed or transmission serviced. Remove flange bolts from rear propeller shaft universal joint, then pull out rear propeller shaft. Remove flange bolts from front propeller shaft universal joint, then remove front propeller shaft. Remove clutch cable from clutch cable mechanism, then clutch housing lower plate. Remove center exhaust pipe assembly, then remove speedometer cable from transfer case. Place a suitable transmission jack under the transmission, then remove rear engine crossmember, Remove transmission/ transfer case assembly. Then remove transmission wiring harness and breather hose if necessary. Reverse procedure to install. Tighten universal joint flange bolts to specifications. Tighten transmission to engine attaching bolts to specifications.

It would sound like the throw out bearing is bad.. That is usually replaced with the clutch and pressure plate. The throw out bearing applies pressure to the pressure plate and releases the clutch disc. When not applied, the bearing spins freely, and a noise would indicate a dry bearing.

Accelerator linkage binding or idle air control solonoid is bad. possible throttle position sensor (TPS) Or the clutch is slightly engaged at all times. You can adjust this, if it hasn't been adjusted already. To do this, pull on the clutch pedal towards you (instead of to the floor). Use some strength when pulling back. If it is able to adjust, it will click. I would try that before spending money.

The best way would be to purchase or rent the tool designed to do that. Auto parts stores should be able to get that tool for you.

If the tool is not available I have had success by placing the wrench and one fan blade so I can hold both with one hand and then squeeze them together like a pair of pliers.

Well let's see. You don't list the year, make, model, or engine size. You tell us nothing about the vehicle you are talking about. So the only answer I can provide is enough to fill it up.

the price varies from shop to shop just call around and see for the best deal. Also I would recommend you going and buying the actual clutch kit yourself this way you can avoid the markup the shop will tack onto the part

the clutch has to be pushed in to start. there is a switch under the dash probably knocked it out of position. while changing cable.

Turn it counterclockwise to remove it.

No, I have had to replace mine numerous times, and have never had abnormal noise.

Check the following items.........

1. Freon levels.

2. Electrical harnesses for the a/c system.

3. Clutch air gap.

4. Pressure switches.....

back bleed is always the best. Use a oil can wth pipe on the end to the bleed nipple. Open nipple and pump like mad until fluid is at its level on master cylinder

01 jetta have One reservoir for clutch and for brakes.

There is a bleeder valve on slave cylinder conected to trans simply get someone to pump clutch pedal hold it down crack valve until no more air is left in lines should only take a couple times refill master cylinder with dot 3 brake fluid and your done

They're all automatic now, and have been for a long time.

The harpy eagle lays two eggs, and the first one to hatch is taken care of. The second will be tossed out of the nest. The chick fledges in 6 months, and is fed for another 6 months.

Standard right hand thread.

In a manual trans car it provides inertia (weight) to the spinning mass (crankshaft etc.) and a thick smooth surface for the clutch to 'grab'. In an automatic trans car it provides a place to bolt the torque converter (an automatic clutch of sorts). The torque converter is heavy, providing the weight needed. I both kinds of cars the fly wheel has 'teeth' on the outer circumference that the starter uses to spin the engine so it will start. I can also be used as an external balance point for the engine by either adding weight at certain points near the circumference or drilling or shaving certain places on the circumference.

ok im a taxi driver and i drive a 95 town car everything is the same you need to hold one of the four little nuts down with a big screwdriver the threads on the fan clutch are reverse so you will have to spin it clockwise to get it off just replaced mine about a week ago ok im a taxi driver and i drive a 95 town car everything is the same you need to hold one of the four little nuts down with a big screwdriver the threads on the fan clutch are reverse so you will have to spin it clockwise to get it off just replaced mine about a week ago

because your retaining nut came off fifth gear

The shift solenoid on your 1994 Chevrolet Blazer, is located on the top of the transmission. The solenoid will be labeled.

Bleeding the hydraulic lines is also straightforward - except that there are two of them. You'll need a friend to help you. You'll also need to get the car up on jack stands or ramps, so you can get at the transmission. The clutch master cylinderis located down on the firewall, just below and to the outside of the car from the brake master cylinder. Here's a picture of the area in a TT. It's the smaller black topped unit in the inset on the lower right of the picture: The slave cylinder is mounted underneath the transmission, at the lowest point on the car. This is a prime place for water to go, as it is denser than the clutch fluid. Many slave cylinders rust from the inside out, and start to leak a bit. Check it by removing the rubber cover and look for wetness. If it's wet, then you should replace the unit. This is a relatively common part, and most auto parts stores carry them. I think I paid $28 last time I did one. Here's a picture of a slave cylinder by itself. The little boot in the picture actually holds the rod that presses the clutch fork level, activating the clutch. Picture of the underside of the car, showing the location of the slave cylinder (rust red in the picture) Take the top off the clutch master cylinder reservoir - CAREFULLY, so the fluid doesn't spill or get on any other surface. The system is filled with brake fluid, and that's corrosive stuff. The process is relatively simple. Have your friend sit in the driver's seat and put their foot on the clutch pedal. Go underneath the car, and attach a small section of appropriate size rubber hose to the bleed nipple, and put the end of it in a clean glass container, like an olive jar. Take the 10-mm wrench, and loosen the nipple about half a turn. Then, have your friend press the clutch pedal to the floor SLOWLY, and hold it there. The hose should squirt a dark colored fluid into the jar. Close the nipple, and have your friend release the pedal. Repeat this process again, and then look at the liquid level in the reservoir in the clutch master cylinder. It should still have some fluid in it. Keep the reservoir filled with fluid as you continue to bleed the system. Repeat this process until you get no bubbles and clear fluid coming out of the hose. If it goes dry, you have to do this all over again until there are no air bubbles coming out…Then, close the nipple, and tighten it snugly: do not over-tighten.
Next, go inside the engine compartment, and look at the top of the passenger's side fender (the left side, as you look into the engine bay from the front bumper). Here's a picture of the area in a 1990 TT. The bleeder is the brass-colored tube on the left side, with the black cap over the nipple in the inset on the upper left of the picture. The NA will not have the cylinder, hoses and reservoir (this is the hydraulic HICAS steering controller) Attach your rubber hose to the nipple, and put it into the glass jar again. Open the nipple slightly with the 10-mm wrench, and have your friend press the clutch pedal in again, just as you did for the slave cylinder (including refilling the reservoir as necessary). Repeat until clear, fresh fluid comes out. Then, close and retighten the nipple, and put the cap back on the clutch master cylinder's reservoir. You should have a clutch pedal that is firm to the foot, and that works in the limits I've described

Depends if You have A hydraulic Clutch or not and are you doing this because you have No pedal or you just changed something . If it is hydraulic here is What I would do First GET a helper and then check and make sure you have fluid in the reservoir then Open bleeder on slave cylinder and have your helper press down on the pedal And hold it YOU should see fluid come out and then tighten bleeder and have helper release pedal repeat until you get some normal pedal and if this wont work you may need a new slave cylinder or clutch master.

Well, first of all, if by clutch actuator, you mean the device that pushes on the clutch plates to engage and disengage the clutch, you are going to have to separate the motor from the transmission. Then you will see where the hydraulic lines come into transmission through the bell housing. At that point you will need to disconnect the lines and pull off the actuator, then replace it with a new one. You will also need to bleed the lines- same concept as bleeding brake lines. make sure that there is enough fluid in the reservoir. This is allot of work, so unless your either very ambitious, or a mechanical minded person, its probably best done by a professional. In order to separate the transmission from the motor, you need to remove the rear drive shaft, and the transmission mounts. its alot of work to tackle, especially if you don't have adequate tools. Hope this helps, Drew

PS if this is not what you meant post it and i will receive a email

i have a 92 s10 4.3 and it took me awhile to get mine working, after replacing clutch set. i had hard pedal so i replaced slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder. it really helps to bench bleed them before you install them , might get alittle messy but well worth the effort. then after i had everything hooked up i left the slave cylinder off the bell housing while pumping the fork pin slowly into the slave cylinder to push air up and out of the fluid container. this was the only way i could get the slave to give enuff pressure to release the clutch. took me about 6 times before i could see the clutch working thru inspection hole. hope this helps