Construction Tools

Mining requires tough machines to remove and transport product out to processing centers. These machines are used in the tight confines associated with underground operations. At the center of the removal and loading operations is a tough-as-nails tractor with a scoop (called a bucket). Any one of this group of machines can be called a load haul dumper. The load haul dumper (LHD) used in mining must perform a primary operation that will support mining objectives - namely, getting material from the ground to the transport. LHD's must pick up and carry heavy burdens safely, quickly and efficiently. They must have the power and flexibility to work hard, and must be engineered extremely well to allow them to do their job shift after shift, day in and day out. Efficiency must be built into them as well as energy costs continue to balloon. They must also provide long service for a fair capital cost, and allow a user an increase in his profit margin while working in an industry notorious for its low return on investment. [Apologies if this reads like an advertisement, but it says a few things directly about the equipment in question.] Links are provided. Naturally there are pictures.

It was dangerous. Obviously. Why has every other recalled thing been recalled?

Blacksmiths set up shops to make and sell iron tools and saddles. The livery stable and the blacksmith were sometimes operated by the same person. The metal for the saddles was made by the blacksmith, and the leather was usually made by someone else.

To cut very accurate, fine slots, known as 'dovetails'.

It is recommended to not exceed 15 degrees.

Because it has a very narrow, flexible blade that makes curves easily

goes with a drill to tighten the neck around the drill bit.
The end of a drill where the bit goes is called a chuck. You use a key to tighten it to hold the bit. It is not a key like a house key but a gear that matches the teeth on the chuck.

There are several options. -Bolt extraction kits, you can probably get one at your local autoparts store. Drill a hole in the bold and insert the extractor, turning counter-clockwise. You may need to tap it in with a hammer first. It's best to use a reverse-thread drill bit to drill the hole. They should be in the same section as the extraction kits. The advantage of the reverse-thread drill bit is that it turns counter-clockwise, the same direction you need to turn the bolt to get it out, thus the drill alone may pull the bolt out if the drill bit catches and the bolt is loose. Use caution when using the extraction kits though. They are brittle and if you overtorque it you can end up breaking the bit in the hole. Then you have a much bigger problem. -If enough of the bolt is above the surface, you can use a dremmel to cut a notch, then use a flat-head screw driver to turn the bolt out. -For really stubborn bolts, you can drill the bolt out completely and re-thread the hole. This should only be attempted if you have a drill press. If you are using a hand drill and eyeballing it you will probably end up messing up the hole and the threads. -Depending on the age and condition of the metal that the hole is in and if lock-tight has been applied to the bolt, heat may be used to loosen the bolt. Heat the area around the hole with a propane torch. -If all else fails, take it to your local machine shop and have them drill it out for you.

if the diameter 5/16 inches then you covert the 5/16 into 0.3125 inches. divide 5 by 16=0.3125 which is a little bigger than 0.3! ;)

It depends on the motor size. If 750 watts, then, 750/240 = 3.125. So use the next size up - 5A fuse

22uf 8 wrap liner (probably too FAST), 33uf 8 or 10 wrap still fast but more steady power, and 47 uf 10 or 12 wrap color . slower harder hitting . remember 8 wrap is liner, 10 is liner /shader (set up like a liner) and 12 wraps 47uf is only for big mag set up.

The very first wood-cutting chainsaw was made in 1927. In the 1780s, the saws people used for logging were two-man crosscut saws...they're about six feet long, they've got handles at both ends and they're not as easy to use as chainsaws, but with practice a good saw team can cut a lot of trees down.

With a wedge in the head of the handle.

They very well could have, albeit a very crude form and not the kind of pliers we use today. Here's a list of what they did have:

6 Copper kettles (1 of 5 gallons, 1 of 3, 2 of 2, & 2 of 1)

35 Falling axes

4 Drawing knives, short & strong

2 Augers of the patent kind

1 Small permanent Vice

1 Hand vice

36 Gimblets assorted

24 Files

12 Chisels

10 Nails

2 Steel plate hand saws

2 Vials of Phosphorous

1 container of phosphorous made of allum & sugar

4 Groce fishing hooks assorted

12 Bunches of drum line

2 Foot adzes

12 Bunches of small cord

2 Pick axes

3 Coils of rope

2 Spades

12 Bunches of small fishing line assorted

1 lb. Turkey or Oil stone

1 Iron mill for grinding corn

20 yds. of oil linen for wrapping & securing articles

10 yds of thicker quality for covering and lining boxes

40 yds of strong cloth to form two half faced Tents or Shelters

4 Tin blowing trumpets

2 Hand or spiral sping Steelyards

20 yds strong Oznaburgs

24 Iron spoons

24 Pint tin cups (without handles)

30 Steels for striking or making fire

100 Flints

2 Frows

6 Saddlers large needles

6 Large awls

Mosquito curtains

2 Patent chamber lamps & wicks

15 Oil cloth bags for securing provision

1 Sea grass hammock

Since Mongomery Wards is no longer in business, your best bet would be to get serial number, model number and any other info you can off the tiller and use that to do a Google search. I once bought an old Mongomery Ward riding lawnmower that wasn't running, but all components looked good. I managed to find the manufacturer and pertinent information on it. With that info plus a manual on small engine repairs, I had a good running mower.

since montgomeryward was bought out by toro. go to the toro website get the custumer service #give them your model # and tell them what you want

Yes, that is their exact purpose.

Yes, marlin has now release their thumbhole stocks for models vst and vt to the public. Price is $99, but you have to call them. Their website isn't even updated enough to show the new models, let alone the stocks. The number is listed on the website however. Also, Revival gunstocks has been rumored to sell their tundra for the Marlin, but I haven't been able to confirm this since their phone lines were down when I called them. They list only Ruger 10/22 stocks on their website. This answer is assuming you are talking about the Marlin 917.

You set a surveyors level up , level it using the bubble (also known as a vial) levels on it. Once level, and set up on top of a tripod, you then have a level reference in 360 degrees. Think of it this way, its a level "slice" through the air that you cannot see, but the level you're using has a optical scope (glass telescope) and when you look through it, you'll see a crosshair like a rifle scope..the horizontal crosshair, that's the level reference point that cuts the "slice" through the air that I gave an example of. From that level slice , you use a level rod, or some way to measure from the level slice down. That is, you measure from level down to a point, for example, a finished floor elevation, or the top of a wall, or top of a manhole, anything that you're wanting to measure its "levelness" (not a word, but I'm using it so you know what youre measuring for). Good place to buy surveyors levels is at EngineerSupply. For example, say you want to reference how low a manhole top is in a parking lot, so you reference from one end of the parking lot, or say from the door to the building, that way you can make sure that manhole top is lower than the doorway so that water runs to the manhole and not into the doorway flooding your building. A surveyors level is a reference tool to reference from level. Level being a slice of air that's completely level. If you're outside, you have to measure from some reference. So, why not measure from level. Think about it.

The denser the styrofoam, the greater it's load bearing ability.

Hold the nail with a pair of pliers.

Or you could be careful and hold the nail very lightly between your thumb and index finger. Hit it firmly, but not so hard that the hammer will smash your fingers down into board you are nailing. Once the nail is started, you can move your fingers and finish nailing it.

Roofers (who use thousands of nails in a day) just lightly tap the nail to set it, then drive it home with a second harder hit.

The history of drilling machine dates back as far as 35,000 BCE. This is when the Homo Sapiens discovered the hand drill as a rotary tool. The core drill was developed in ancient Egypt around 3000 BC.

4.3 is best or a 4.2 but use pleny of oil

No, this is not a new feature. Sounds like you are simply not tightening the chuck enough. - If you are, and it still happens then the chuck is faulty, -take it back for another.

Yes they are very heavy duty machine and I recommend them 4 there price. All things being equal: horse power, table size, saw size (diameter of blade. I would pick the powermatic table saw. Grizzly brand have been getting better but nat all Grizzly tools are up to standards. Dude! Asking if a Powermatic is a good saw is like asking if a Mercedes is a good car. Powermatics are some of the top saws in the industry. They're made for constant hard industrial use, so if this is going in a home shop...well, hope your great-great-great grandson's kid likes to work wood.