Dodge Caravan

location for cooling relay on 05 caravan 3.8l

A 2006 Dodge Caravan does not have an interior fuse box. All fuses are under the hood next to the battery.

You don't tighten a serpentine belt. The tension is controlled by a tensioner. If it is loose, then the belt has stretched and needs replacing.

The local dealer here (Tucson) charges $43.00 for this procedure. The van requires this at 60,000, 90,000 & 120,000 miles for a total cost of $129.00... not including your time and travel. I wish I could find an alternate method, but it appears it's not something that you can do yourself... even using something like, say, a "scan tool". If I ever find a better (read

The air filter is in a black housing about 5'X 8", located under the hood on the driver's toward the front near the battery. You will know it because there is a black plastic hose the runs to toward the middle rear of the engine. There are 4 clips, 2 on each end you have to pull up on the solid lever part of the clip, that will release the pressure on the fastner end that holds the top to the bottom. Due the same will all four, than lift the top half away from the bottom. Be careful not to break hose tube or the wires to the sensor. The air filter should just out. You should vacuum and clean the air cleaner box before installing the new filter.

Trouble code P0135 means:O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction

(Bank 1 Sensor 1)

If you are referring to the relay, it is on the inside ot the driver's side frame rail just below the battery. It is a strange, more rectangular looking thing that doesn't look like a typical boxy Chrysler relay. It is a bit of a knuckle buster to get to - it helps to pull the air filter box to get to it. If memory serves, it was about $35-40 at NAPA. When I got it, the NAPA guys knew exactly what I was talking about as they said this is a pretty common replacement item.

20

No such part

It is located back by the belhouseing on the left side.

When you buy the new master cylinder it will actually have installation instructions inside the box, for what to do with the master cylinder before you put it on for example bench bleeding the m.s. to make sure there is no air in there before you put it on. But to get started. you simply disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder, they should be in the back, on the rear of the master cyl. then its off, and you will get air in the lines, you must bleed the brakes, you can find the process for this in the haynes or chiltons book at the library, copy the instructions so you don't have to go buy the book. anyway, after you follow the manufacturers instructions for bench bleeding the m.s. then you are ready to install. you will have lost some fluid, so it is a good idea to have a large bottle of brake fluid on hand first. you will lose some more when bleeding the brakes. I think the nuts take a 7/16 wrench, if not it may be 1/2 inch or 10 mm nothing else, i doubt, its a small size, same goes for bleeeding the brakes, so install the new, reverse of removing the old, replace the cover (where you will with fluid). bleed all the brakes, have someone pump and hold the brakes while you bleed and then tighten the nuts one by one starting with the front brakes. when all brakes have been bled, lower the car off the jack, let it sit for about 20 minutes for all fluid to even out, check your brake fluid at the master clyinder, and replace any lost fluid. check your brakes in driveway before going anywhere. goodluck kel

One of the brake may be dragging or staying on. Check the calipers and hoses.

All fuses are under the hood, next to the battery.

All fuses are under the hood, next to the battery.

28 psi 28 psi - - - - - - I checked another link and it said 35psi. I went to the van and the sticker on driver's door said 35psi. However, this is for a 1996. Can't believe they'd run a van at 28 psi.

I just replaced the passengers side mirror, and the drivers should be the same. The whole unit will have to be replaced, as I tried to find somewhere that just handled the glass, with no avail.When you receive the replacement you will be get a better idea of some of the things I will talk about.(3) torx head screws secure it to the door ( mine had (2) SIZE 30T and (1) 25T.When you open the door, you will see the bottom screw, the other (2) are located behind a face plate on the upper portion. This face plate will have to be pried off carefully.You will have to unplug it electricly, a small panel will make it accessible Everything is done from the outside of the vehicle. The bottom left torq screw is accessable after you open the door. The upper left torq, I had to bend back the mirror, toward the front of vehicle, in order to access this one. All three (3) torq screws on my 2003 CSX were 30T's. Also when pulling out the cable, with connector, it was taped inside the door frame and I had to drop the glove box door and pull from underneath to free up.

(I recommend you take it to a garage as if you get too much in it you can lock the compressor or it won't cool right .

I OWN A 93 4.3 VORTEC CHEVY S10 BLAZER,AND MY MANUAL SAYS WHEN REPLACING THE E.C.M. TO MATCH THE SERVICE NUMBERS (SERV. NO.) TO THE E.C.M. REPLACEMENT. ALSO..REMOVE THE CHIP FROM YOUR OLD E.C.M. AND PUT IT IN THE REPLACEMENT E.C.M. THE CHIP IS CALLED A P.R.O.M. .(PROGRAMMABLE READ ONLY MEMORY)REMOVE THE 2 SCREWS FROM THE PLATE ON THE E.C.M. AND THE CHIP SHOULD BE GRASPED AT EACH END AND GENTLY ROCKED AND PULLED OUT. HELLO--THE 93 AND THE 97 CHEVY COMPUTERS ARE MUCH DIFFERENT--THE 93 HAS THE P.R.O.M. AND THE 97 HAS WHAT IS CALLED A (FLASH MEMORY) WHICH MUST BE PROGRAMMED BY A DEALER, TO MATCH THE VIN # OF YOUR VEHICLE--- IF THE SERVICE # ON THE 305 COMPUTER MATCHES THE SERVICE # ON THE 350 COMPUTER IT WILL WORK

It's behind the glove box door

The pump bolts directly to the engine block, directly behind the timing belt assembly. Therefore, if you have a need to replace the timing belt, it's probably a good idea to consider changing the water pump as well (and visa-versa).

I have a 2008 Dodge Caravan that whistles when either I reach a speed between 65 - 75 or when a strong wind comes from the front left corner of the vehicle. Took it to the dealership when I noticed the front fender came loose where it meets thefender well. They replaced the fasteners to reattach the fender. Did not make a difference.

Since I travel for my job I had plenty of time to analyze the problem. What I think is happening is the wind is causing the headlamp on the driver side to vibrate at a high frequency causing the sound. Think of when you have the brake rotors turned and they put a large rubber band around the outer edge of the rotor to prevent a very high pitched squeal. (If you've never heard this before, it will cause you to put your fingers in your ears!) So I used the same principle and wrapped a layer of electrical tape around the top, sides, bottom and outer edges of the headlamp to decrease the vibration. This has solved the problem for me.

Good Luck!

It is in the fuel tank. Tank has to be lowered to access.

It is in the fuel tank. Tank has to be lowered to access.

there are three relays two are located on the left side near the battery ...the frst one is on the second rack first one tha second one is the last one on the same rack..the 3rd one is for the ac that is on the right side fender near the shock tower the one closer to the jack...

If the question is refering to the wiring harness that comes with a Grand Caravan with the optional towing package. The harness comes in a plastic bag somewhere in the interior of the vehicle but is not installed. The harness is installed by removing the rear bumper cover and tail light assemblies unplugging the lights from their respective harnesses and installing the harness between the light and connector that was just unplugged. The harness is simply routed out below the light assemblies under the bumper cover and out near the hitch receiver. Replace light assemblies and bumper cover and the installation is complete.

The hardest part is stuffing the new harness connectors back in the body panel with the included padding to reduce noise from the connectors bumping against the body panel. The whole process can be completed in about 45 minutes.

The wire isn't what's stopping you from getting the tire down. It's the "T" shaped plastic retainer. It's stuck in the capture mechanism and the mechanism is rusted. VERY common problem on these vans. You'll have to soak the mechanism with rust penetrant and try working it until it releases.

Rick

I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. Visit my blog for cool articles and TSB's: http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com

it is vacuum vavle controled by engine temperature. mostly used until engine gets up to normal operating temperature, or after the engine gets to normal operating temperature. depending on what is hooked up to the vavle. i hope this helps Answer your question.