Dodge Colt

it is behind the kick panel on the front passenger side of the car , I believe two screws hold the kick panel in place.

Loosen the wheel lugnuts. Using a flat head screw driver or other suitable tool, pry off the cap at the center of the wheel to expose the axle nut. Loosen the axle nut (this may take some serious leverage or a pneumatic wrench). Jack the car up and place chocks. Remove the wheel. Remove the axle nut. Remove the brake drum (be sure the parking brake is not engaged or it won't come off). As you remove the drum the outer wheel bearing will come with it since after the axle nut is removed, there is nothing holding it in place. Take the brake drum to a work bench. With a flat head screw driver, pry out the oil seal (plastic ring) from the inner wheel bearing side. Discard the used oil seal. The inner bearing will slide right out. You now have to remove the inner and outer races that are jammed into the center hole of the brake drum. If you look in the hole you will see the two races are separated by a ring and you will notice that the ring between the two races has a gap in it. You place the head of a flat head swrew driver or chisel in the gap and bang one race out one end of the hole. Flip the drum over and bang the other one out the other end. Here's the hard part, you need to bang two new races in and you will need a brass drift to do it. A brass drift is just a brass stick. You need a stick made of brass because it is softer then the races and therefore as you bang the races in the brass gets chipped but the races are not damaged. Start with the outer bearing race. Set it in place (i.e in the center hole of the drum) and use the brass drift and hammer to get it down into the hole and into place. You are trying to get the race squeezed into the hole uniformly and not on an angle. After it is just slightly seated bang it in using the brass drift on the race and hammering the other end of the drift. Bang it down, moving around the circular race so that it goes down uniformly and not at an angle. Eventually you will have banged it all the way down until it is sitting flush on that ring in the center of the hole, just as was the race you removed. Flip the drum over and bang another race into the inner wheel bearing side. When the inner wheel bearing race is in place apply some bearing grease to the inner bearing race. Make sure you are using WHEEL BEARING grease, regular grease will not do the job. Pack the new bearing with WHEEL BEARING grease (check youtube -- there are videos on how to pack a bearing with grease). Install a new oil seal. I have had success with a block of wood that is bigger than the oil seal - place the seal in on the hole, cover with the block of wood and bag the wood with a rubber mallet, therby forcing the seal into place. Flip the drum over, apply WHEEL BEARING grease to the outer race, pack the outer race with WHEEL BEARING grease, slip it in place. Put drum with new bearings back on the axle, apply axle nut (we'll tighten it later). Put the wheel on, lower the car, tighten the axle nut to at least 150 pounds, fill the cap with grease and put the cap back over the axle nut, tighten lug nuts.

To do this job you need a brass drift (try sears online), wheel bearing grease (Mitsubishi recommends lithium-based wheel bearing grease) an oil seal (buy extras, you will go through two or three before you get this right, believe me, and you can always return the unused ones) and wheel bearings. The bearings that NAPA says you need for this car do not fit. I found that the one's that Advance Autoparts sells for this car do fit. The inner and outer bearings are the same size, so you need two identical bearings with races (the bearings are sold with the races) for each wheel.

depends if its a front wheel drive then it will be between the engine block and fire wall.. if it rear wheel then it will be on the driver side of the engine where the trany and engine meet depends if its a front wheel drive then it will be between the engine block and fire wall.. if it rear wheel then it will be on the driver side of the engine where the trany and engine meet

If Fwd and the front tires are on the dolly. yes.

If Fwd and the front tires are on the dolly. yes.

I own A 1991 Hyundai excell ,though not exactly the same, the Mitsubishi mirage 1.5 l ,the dodge colt ,and Hyundai excell are basically the same ,but are all different enough that the electrical parts are not interchangeable,the fuel relay is located under the dashboard between the steering column,and theleft side of the car. it is metal,with a 10mm bolt attatching it to the car ,it is far enough under there that you have to slide the seat back and lay in the floor board to see it. I hope this will help.

Check to see if your getting fuel at the Multi Point Injection Intake disconnect the Fuel line and then turn the ignition on and see if your getting fuel coming out of that line. If not then you have a fuel pump problem. I discovered with my 92 Dodge Colt that after it sat at my mechanics place for seven months and I finally got it back cause he never fixed it, the fuel pump doesnt work now and the tank got drained empty so I suspect the pump got corroded or rusty because of the tank being empty. You have to see if it is getting fire and fuel and has compression. The gas is porbably bad and neeeds replaced.

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I believe it is located under the distributor cap. At least that's where it is located on a 1991 dodge colt 1.5 litre.

attach a noid lite set run or try to start moniter noid lites if they lite they have pwr test lite and a pin on amps or voltage will work to

the fuel pump may be in the tank, i think mine is on 89 colt .

this question best served under automobile section

Both the crank and cam sprockets have timing marks on the sprocket and on the engine. As you face the front of the engine, with the sprockets in front of you, the cam timing mark is approx. 85 degrees right of top center. The crank mark is approx. 10-15 degrees right of top center (piston #1 should be top dead center). Line marks on sprockets with timing marks on block (tin), slip on belt and tighten tensioner. Manually rotate engine 2 complete revolutions and check that both marks are still aligned.

I'm sorry but more info is needed, in order to diagnos it. If you can, email me. I would like to know if this is a full tune up you did. I see you didn't mention replacing the airfilter, cap& rotor. Or for that matter, what was happening that prompt you to change these parts, ok. May be the timing belt has snapped!

Easy way to check is, remove the distributor cap and have someone crank the egine. If the rotor turns, the belt is on. If it does not rotate, your timing belt has broken. Also, people need to include not only the yr of the car but the engine size too.

JP need4speed7@yahoo.com

it may be that you have misplaced the plug wires order, ensure you have the correct fire order and the proper #1 position on the cap. This may be the answer if the car was running prior to your maintenance, also check that the fuel filter is in a correct flow by looking at the arrow on the filter

depending on the style of belt, on the alternator belt there is an adjustment just below the slider holding the alternator, you just simply tighten it until belt becomes tight.

It is computer controlled and nonadjustable,.

The question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

In the tank.

under radiator on frame rail just to passgr side of cener, facing downward

Sincerely, I recommend you buy a shop manual. Haynes or chiltons (for the inexpensive cost) are good manuals to consult. I use Motor or Mitchl manuals.The job you are questioning is quite an involved one.

You must at least, posess good mechanical skills. As this proceedure, if not done correctly, will render ur car useless. It basically involves removing parts and placing them back but, you must have the proper tools and, the manual in order to see the pictures or Figs.

Still want to know? Ok. Keep in mind, that this is a 2 man job, and that this procedure works better for an engine that has the existing belt still, but will work on one that has broken off. It just has a few more things to consider.

1- Apply emergency brake.2- Raise vehicle and support with stand.3- Remove front left wheel.4- Jack up engine a bit, to relieve weight on motor mount which must be removed on that same side the wheel came off.

5- Remove #1 sparkplug and bring that #1 piston to TDC. (Top Dead Center) To do this, have someone tap-crank the engine till u can visually see the piston come up. Important: #1 piston must come up on compression stroke!! In order to figure this out, use either of two ways. Either place a rolled piece of tissue onto the opening of the sparkplug hole, (as piston comes up on compression stroke ONLY, the tissue will pop out). Or, if you can block the hole with a finger (just snug) you will feel the compression blow by your finger. This SHOULD bring the timing marks to their respective places.

Note: (If you DONOT feel pressure come out of the sparkplug hole, you may have really bad piston rings. If so, this work is not needed, another engine is).

6- Disconnect NEG battery cable.

7- Remove motor mount.

IMPORTANT= Before removing all I am about to explain, you MUST loosen the Crankshaft center bolt first!! With the help of all the belts still on it will be hard, but, you must find a way to stop the lower crankshaft pully from rotating! If this pully rotates, the #1 piston will loose its correct timing position and YOU MUST re-do step #5 ((I KNOW, I HAVE DONE THIS)) If you do not have a tool that can hold the pully, you can try this.> NOTE: some people use a pry bar and wind up cracking the pully! Don't do it to that point. This pully has several holes in it. Using a chain, Bolt it at top where the motormount goes. Bring the slack down along side this pully. Find a small bolt that will fit in the holes with out having to screw in. If it does, all the merrier.

8- With the chain in place, place a pry bar (big screw driver like tool) in between engine and pully (with EXTREME caution)not crack anything plastic or the edge of the pully, or with causing warpage. (sorry, this is one way if you do not have that special tool that holds this pully).

NOTE: you must remove the lower plastic cover under the engine just in the front!

Now, when you removed the wheel, you did it so you can access this little hole that is covered by a rubber cap, remove this cap. Thru this hole you will see the crankshaft bolt. NOTE: if it does not seem aligned, lower or raise the jack to make it aligned. Place the correct size half inch socket over the nut. Insert a half inch ratchet extension, and attach a breaker bar to it. Place and hold the prybar in place and have the 2nd man turn the breaker bar counterclockwise until she breaks loose. THIS MUST BE ACHIEVED

9- Now remove belt by loosening the alt tensioner to slack the belt, and any other component that has a belt (ie, A/C, pwr str etc). Once this is done, begin lossening the screws or bolts to the pully of the water pump and crankshaft. They basically have 4 screws ea. Crankshaft pully has the center bolt too, remember! (DO NOT MIX THEM with others)

AGAIN: DO NOT allow crankshaft pully to budge!! Once the crank pully is off, you will notice its timing mark by means of a pin on the gear. Now, the timing mark which is to match with this pin looks like a pimple and is located at a 1'Oclock position on the engine. (In other words, look at this gear as if it were a clock. The little hand MUST be pointed to 1 O'clock. Once the pullys are off, remove the timing belt covers (2 pcs). There are several 10mm screws- don't mix them.

10- Now, at the top, you will see the camshaft, which will reveal part of the belt. What you want to check for is the timing mark on the belt pully sprocket (THIS ONE STAYS ON -DONOT REMOVE). This mark is in the shape of a triangle >. This mark must be pointing to 3 O'clock, at its counter timing mark, which is located about an inch away on the engine head. AGAIN: You must have a manual in order to understand this. If it is not, careful rotating adjustment must be done so that ALL timing points match.

11- Now you must just loosen the timing belt tensioner spring (a spring with a bolt thru it)

12- Now loosen the timing belt tensioner (the bolt is on the right side of it)

13- Once this is done, the belt can now be removed.

TO REPLACE.. follow these steps in reverse order. Make sure to check timing afterwards with timing light.

IMPORTANT: You can tell if #1 piston is at Top Dead Center, by removing the distributor cap and checking to see, that the rotor points to #1 wire on the cap. The distributor cap has the numbers on it.

I am sorry to sound lame, but that info you will find in a shop manual for the car and year in question. I just bought a Chilton CD. You can have any cars on that and it contains EVERTYTHING you need. I changed my colt distributor within minutes. By the way colts have bad distributors!! eheheh Sonny L. electric wiring diagram at this link in pdf format : http://www.geocities.com/berserko_1/c50/ sometimes mitsubishi/colt/mirage distributors of that model do fail early, a distributor for the galant of the same year model will fit and it's believed to work better. -freebsdkid

You will have to find the coil first.

Depending on how much it is burning. If not severe just keep oil level full. If severe rebuild engine

They have to be pressed out mechanically. Mitsubishi blew it on this design.

A ignitor, also known as a spark plug is located by following the wires from the distributor cap which is connected to said ignitor(s)