Dodge Durango

About 200 miles.

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

i guess ill have to answer my own question .first disconect drive shaft from rearend and wire it up out of the way.( heres where i punt) then remove pinion nut ,flang and retainer. then pry out old seal and install new seal. now to get out there in the rain and snow and do it. man i hate vermont.

The control for the heat on the dash has a control for the back seat and also has a setting that says something like "Rear Control". This allows the passengers in the back seat to control their heat independently via a temperature control in the back seat (on the back of the center console).

So you could have the heat on in the front and the rear on "rear control" and if the passenger in the back has set their control to cold, it wold blow cold air in the back even though you have the heat on in the front.

clockwise

through the rear package compartment under the matting

All the time

In our neighborhood, it's currently about $79.

Open the hood and reach behind the headlight and twist out the lamp socket. Then take the bulb out from the socket. Replace with new bulb and twist socket back in.

since it's a tight squeeze reaching behind, there is one small hex/torq bit screw on the fender side of the headlight. take out that screw and the headlight slides out on rails. pretty simple if you have the right screw driver.

Bad EGR, Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve. That is what reduces NoX emissions

it is under the glove box on the passenger side. it literally takes 5 minutes to change it. the part cost is about $15. 2 screws and it drops right out.

No

I am ask the question, how many quarts of oil will my ML500 hold

I wanted a clean installation without any wires hanging down by the rear bumper.

To achieve that I removed the drivers side rear tail light and tapped into the lighting system in the tail light assembly cavity. Then I drilled a hole through that compartment

(one on either side of cargo space in rear of 4 runner) that is used to store car jack parts and whatever else you want to store. I then fed the new trailer light wires (3') through that hole and sealed the hole with silicone.

Then I attached the trailer 4 prong plug in to the newly installed 3 foot long wires,

and wrapped all the wires in red plastic tape, coiled it up, put it into the side compartment and reattached the compartment door.

When needed I drop the rear door, open the side compartment and pull out the wire.

Then I feed it between the rear fold down door and the bumper, paying out the right length of wire to reach the trailer receptor, then close the rear door. There is a rubber moulding around the rear door that compresses around the wiring holding it in place

and preventing it from being crushed.

When trailering is completed, open rear door, pull wire back into vehicle, roll it up and store it in the side compartment. This works wonderfully well for me and I never have that ugly wire flapping in the breeze and deteriorating in the elements. Good luck, Dan.

It means that there are no logged engine or drivetrain codes in the ECM.

That is the idle control modual and I believe it is a dealer only item.

I have done a few of these and if you have never done one you dont want to start now. They are a real pain to do. SORRY, Ray

Sorry doesn't cut it when looking for an answer, Ray. I'm helping a friend out and glossed over his generic Chilton's manual. Taking the water pump bolts out directly is the hardest part. It is apparant that the housing shell connected to the motor mount is covering the top two bolts of the water pump. The manual shows that removing the alternator bracket to remove the water pump assembly (read: water pump PLUS its angled housing shell that its connected to) can be removed with three simple long bolts inverse to the water pump. Plan on 3-4 hours labor for us unskilled home mechanics. I with this answer. Sincerely, Craig

Each plug has its own coil pack. Look between the intake manifold and the valve cover on either side and you will see them. They are right along the fuel rails.

Freeze plugs are located in numerous places on the engine block and cylinder head assemblies. Replacement of freeze plugs is usually beyond the skill level of most amateur mechanics.

I just paid 1500 parts and labor. Make sure they do the overdrive also. My overdrive self destructed and needed some hard parts but I think 1500 is a good deal.

I think you mean liters to cubic inches, that would be 318 Yup, the 5.2l is the trusty 318, the most popular MOPAR engine