Dodge Durango

pass side 2-4-6-8 driver side 1-3-5-7

1998

From the inside of your vehicle loosen the plastic covering the back hatch, the light will need to be removed temporarily, slide your hand in to lift up on the rod that is connected to the lock mechanism to unlock the hatch. This is a common Durango malady, which may be able to be rectified by lubricating the sliding lock mechanism. After lubrication, test operation with key and / or remote. Re-attach plastic covering.

You may want to check and see if it is just stuck... My 99 gets stuck all the time. I have to bang on the back with my shoulder into where the latch is and that usually dislodges it enough to get it to open. Also if you push on the gate as you lift the lever it may help....

**Once you have opened the hatch by pulling on the latch/rod from the inside, I found it handy to loop a 1" tie-down strap about a foot long over the lift-up part of the latch/rod and then feeding it under the plastic liner, and letting it hang out inside of the vehicle. It's not in the way, and is much handier than taking everything apart to open as described in the above paragraph. ***Not recommended if you have young children, as they may be able to open the liftgate while riding in the rear seats.

The hazard flasher gives a lot of problems. Jiggle the switch slowly and see if by chance they may temporarilly work.

Depends where you live. Dealer recomends 5w30. Check your owners manual for temperature (where you drive it) related recomendations. Should be on the oil filler cap on some cars also.

Park the vehicle on a level surface. Drain the oil and change the filter. Pour in 4.5 quarts of the correct weight oil and start the engine. Let it run for 1 minute and then shut down. Wait 30 minutes and check the oil level. Add enough oil to reach the full mark on the dip stick. Do not overfill. You now know the capacity.

Mine was really easy to replace. Just have as little gas in the tank as possible, disconnect the two tubes from the rear of the fuel tank (which is plastic, nice!) Then remove the two bolts that are holding the straps that run under the tank (straps are steel) while holding the tank up with a floor jack. when the straps are out of the way, slowly lower the tank. There should be enough slack in the wires leading to the pump connector (and fuel line) to slide the tank almost all the way out from under the truck. Turn the retainer counter clockwise (I think) and it comes off and the pump lifts right out. Good Luck!

first take of wire cover on top to give yourself more room then take off serpetean belt by taking a 15mm wrench to the tentioner and turn it clockwise to loosen belt then take off hose leading out the front of car the take off hte bracket thatthat holds a/c compressorbolts are 10mm them take off the nuts to water pump. before youcan get to hte lower hoses you must take off the front iner fenderwell. whatch out the heaterhose is a bear to get the clamp off. i took the big lower hose off first and then from top tyrned the water pump so i could get the clamp off for the heater hose needlessto say i change the clamp for a regular screw clamp once your there you can easily manuver the water pump out reverse to install.

You will need to buy the following items:

CD Player

Wire Harness Adapter (Scosche is the brand, can be bought for less than $10 at WalMart next to the CD players)

Radio removal tool (2 U-Shaped wire tools to remove radio - about $4.99 at WalMart, again next to the CD players)

Removal Steps:

Removal of the factory radio

1 Disconnect the negative battery cable (Black)

2 Insert the radio removal tools into the 2 vertical (up and down) holes on each side of the stock radio and push until you feel them engage in the holes

3 Pull the tools to the sides ( <----- ------> ) and pull straight back at the same time. The radio should be far enough out of the dash for you to pull it out all the way by hand.

4 Unplug the antenna cable (Thick, round, black cable) and rest it aside.

5 Unplug the other two connectors and set aside.

Wiring Steps:

Wiring the wire harness adapter

1 Each wire on the scosche adapter corresponds to a wire on the CD player harness. Each are color coded and the colors should match up with the colors on the CD player harness. Each wire should also have writing on it.

2 Connect all of the wires to the corresponding wires and either soldier the connections or use crimp on connectors (If either method is not available, twist the wires together and tape with electrical tape and place a zip tie over the connection.) Always cover the connections with plenty of electrical tape and place a zip tie over the connection.

The wiring is now ready for install

Install Steps

1 Insert the radio cable into the back of the CD player.

2 Insert the CD player harness into the back of the CD player.

3 Plug the scosche adapter into the connectors leading into the car.

4 Insert the CD player into the radio slot while being careful of the wiring.

5 Reconnect the negative battery cable (black)

6 Turn on the ignition and test all functions of the radio.

For any other questions, refer to www.contour.org...click on "Forums"

Group 34, approx 600 cold crank amps

The instrument cluster is also the body computer.

First, raise the front of the car about two feet from the ground. Next, remove the motor mount one piece at a time. Remove any other belts and hoses that restrict access to the water pump. It is recommended that you consult a manual for details of the accurate removal and replacement of timing belts. Remove the water pump and remove debris from the area surrounding the mounts with a degreaser. Replace any gaskets and install the new pump. Finally, replace all hardware that was removed for accessibility.

On the passenger side under the hood on the fire wall there is a vacuum hose along with a one way check ball valve, the vacuum line always brakes or cracks which will cause the air to only blow on defrost or blow from vents until you give it more gas or climb a hill. Find the broken vacuum line and repair it, that will fix the problem, if it doesn't you may have a check ball valve on that vacuum line that has gone bad.

Any time after six o clock

Laws will vary a bit between jurisdictions, but this version from the State Of New Jersey is pretty common;

"Proper use of headlights is critical to safe driving. Headlights must be used between one-half hour after sunset and one-half hour before sunrise. Headlights must also be used when visibility is 500 feet or less, when using windshield wipers (during rain, snow and ice) or when encountering fog, mist, smoke or other factors that reduce visibility."

Note that many semi trucks will use their headlights 24/7. It's a safety issue. Being seen is important.

There are two methods. 1.) It is possible to maneuver your hand to the lock ring on each headlight assemble from inside the engine compartment. You must work "blind" -- by feel only. The lock ring rotates 1/4 turn to unlock. On the side of the engine with the battery, you must remove the front portion of the plastic battery box. 2.) This method is much easier. Three bolts (one at the top, two on the bottom) that hold the headlight assembly to the vehicle. Look directly at the headlight, and look in the gap between the top of the headlight and the vehicle fender, and also at the gap between the bottom of the headlight and the vehicle bumper. With the aid of a light, you should be able to see all three bolts. Using a socket and an extension to your ratchet, remove the bolts, pull out the headlight assembly, and remove the lock ring. TAKE CARE TO HANDLE THE HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY GENTLY so as to not alter the setting of the headlight in respect to the headlight frame. By taking care, it will not be necessary to have the headlight(s) adjusted (for aim). I have a 2002 Dodge Durango, and I have used both methods. I prefer removing the headlight from the vehicle.

Get the brakes fixed. The warning light indicates that there is a serious problem with your brakes and you need to have the repairs done as soon as possible. You are responsible for having your vehicle in proper running order at all times.

Under the housing where the lower radiator hose hooks to the engine.

Under the housing where the lower radiator hose hooks to the engine.

under passenger side kickplate

it is the top sensor on the passenger side. use a box end wrench to take it out

Bad radiator cap, blockage, new stat is bad, bad coolant temp sensor, fans not working, air pocket in system, worn blades on waterpump, inadequete mixture of coolant and water. Two other things to check....There is a temperature sensor next to the thermostat. They cost about 12 bucks, a standard item, and they are known to degrade in performance over time. Mind you, everything on a fuel injected engine is controlled by a computer module and sensors, the computer adjusting parameters according to readings it gets from the sensors. A bad cooling sensor would not tell the computer to send current to the cooling fan on the radiator. The second thing to check is your radiator itself. Corrosion will build up on the aluminum vents inside, and prevent flow of coolant, and even though your water pump is pumping, the flow is restricted (depending on the antifreeze mix you use), and the solution to that is to have it flushed out. They sell bottles of stuff that you add to your radiator to clean it, or you have it professionally done. To have your radiator flushed insures it is clean, and insures you have the PROPER mix of antifreeze. Too often, shops use the 50/50 mix of antifreeze, and common knowledge dictates that bigger 8 cylinder engines need a richer mixture, like 70/30, especially during the summer. Hot water has way much more pressure than hot antifreeze, and the friction of the mostly water mix could be relative to the "running hot" condition. so, 1st.....Run a richer mix of antifreeze, drive it and see the temperature change. 2nd.....Have the temperature sensor changed. 3rd.....Flush and clean the radiator. Betcha nothing your mixture of antifreeze is too thin to handle this hot weather. Hope it helps. Peace.

1) disconnect negative terminal from your battery.

2) put key into ignition turn to on.

3) wait about 20 seconds, turn key off and pull out.

4) connect negative terminal.

5) start vehicle. it should reset it.

have you checked the fuse?

No.

Depends on many factors. Condition being the most important, but also mileage on the vehicle is very important. It also depends on what model Durango and optional equipment it may have. Click the link and look up your Durango on the website for a value.

It's on the crankshaft behind the timing chains.