Dodge Ram

It may bolt in, but will take major modifications to the electrical and computer systems to get it to work.

are these drum or disk brakes? if drum, the linings may be worn ,which allows to much travel and the slave cylaner rods get out of alignment.if they are disks, the calipers may have a problem with dirt on the pistons. either system may have a problem with the master cylander and the disk brake system may have a problem which requires new calipers

you have to drop the oil pan on the TRANSMISSION, and you can't miss it, it will be right on the other side.

Generation 2 4.7L 290 hp, 320 ft lbs torque

It's not terribly hard, but as is typical with this car, some parts are just not that accessible :) I recommend removing the driver's side tire and the plastic shield that covers the battery. There are 4 locking screws that you will turn 90 degrees to remove the shield. At this point, you will be looking at the transmission from the side. To your left (towards the front of the car) there will be a dark tan screw-in sensor with a wire attached to the front of it. This is the OUTPUT sensor. The input sensor is a few inches further in towards the center of the car. You'll want to find a way to remove the wire from the input sensor and then squeeze a 1" ratchet onto it and unscrew it. Then simply reverse the process to put the new one on. take the air filter off to get to the input sensor. It is tight quarters so good luck. But it's definitely worth trying to do it yourself. $17 part. Took me about an hour or so. I have found an easier way to change the input sensor. Just take off the engine control computer, then the black switch on the tranny, and you can easily reach the sensor. Be careful though, I just got done doing this and now the car will not start, I'm going to take it to a shop tommorow. I'll reply back when i find out what caused this!!!!!!!

It is actually pretty simple. First remove the serpentine belt by using a ratchet or breaker bar with I believe a 14 or 15mm socket and pull back to relieve tension on belt and pull belt off. Then disconnect the hose at the bottom of the p/s reservoir by sqeezing the clip and pulling it back and pulling off hose. Then remove the hard line on the bottom of the pump. You will need a 5/8" wrench for that. Remove the power steering cooler mount(radiator looking thing), it is a 10mm bolt. Remove 3 bolts that bolt the pump to the engine by sticking a 1/2" deep socket through the holes in the pulley. Pull off pump. That is it. Job is done.

I believe it's 18 gallons.

it is under the ecm on the left side of the engine. you will haft to take the iner finder to really see it.

Yes

Turn the key on, engine off, press the gas pedal to the floor three times. Cycle key and light should be off.ok

It can be a combination of things. MOST COMMON: Your IAC (or Intake air control valve); which sits behind the throttle body, could be clogged with black carbon build-up; which requires a bit of a process to get to, disassemble, replacing the TB gasket with a new one, and cleaning all areas with a non-corrosive cleaner very carefully.

If you IAC is fine, It could also be the cause of a leaky fuel injector, bad fuel pump, or even a fuel leak.

You first diagnosis is to test your fuel pressure and air control. Doing this requires you to turn the ignition to the on and off position while measuring the PSI (by not turning starting the truck). The measures should be around 40 PSI. Anything lower would indicate the problem is either your fuel pump or a leaky injector.

its behind the radiator on the drivers side. Its about 4" down in front of the black square box (which is in front of the battery).

well the 426 hemi has 425 horsepower stock and also the 6.1 hemi has 425 and the 5.7 hemi has about 380 horse power it can run the quarter mile around high 13.00 seconds in a dodge ram mabye 15.00 because of the weight of the truck

235 Horsepower/335 ft. lb. of torque

i may not b the best at that subject but i plugs into the transmissin pretty much

12 mpg city 17mpg hwy you can average 15-16 if it is running perfectly, with a very lite foot. With a heavy foot, trailer towing, or excessive idle time expect 8-10mpg

I have a '79 Dodge Xplorer myself and I know that it can be very fidgety getting the thing to turn over if you don't have the battery terminals well hooked up. What have you tried to do thus far?

dealer must clear

DID YOU EVER SOLVE PROBLEM ,, THIS IS THE SAME THING HAPPENING TO MY TRUCK?

Check for looseness in the front axle u-joints.

Nowhere. The Aspen, like most domestic cars of that era, had the headlights switched directly by the dash-mounted headlight pull switch. The brights were directly wired through the floor-mounted dimmer switch. There is a self-resetting thermal circuit breaker. I think on this car it'd be part of the switch, but if not, it'd plug into the regular fuse box. It'd be a small metal rectangular box that pulls right out. There probably is also a fusible link that comes out of the positive feed on the battery that might be melted.

The water pump on all engines is bolted directly to the engine timing chain case/cover. A gasket is used as a seal between the water pump and timing chain case/cover. If water pump is replaced because of bearing/shaft damage or leaking shaft seal, the mechanical cooling fan assembly should also be inspected. Inspect for fatigue cracks, loose blades or loose rivets that could have resulted from excessive vibration. Replace fan if any of these conditions are found. Also check condition of the thermal viscous fan drive. # Disconnect negative battery cable from battery. # Drain cooling system. # Do not waste reusable coolant. If solution is clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse. # Remove the plastic air cleaner intake tube. # Remove two-piece fan shroud Remove lower half first. Remove upper radiator hose at radiator. # The thermal viscous fan drive is attached (threaded) to the water pump hub shaft Remove the fan/fan drive assembly from water pump by turning the mounting nut counterclockwise (as viewed from front) Threads on the fan drive are RIGHT HAND. A Snap-On 36 MM Fan Wrench (number SP346 from Snap-On Cummins Diesel Tool Set number 2017DSP) can be used. Place a bar or screwdriver between the water pump pulley bolts to prevent the pulley from rotating. # If water pump is being replaced, do not unbolt fan blade assembly from the thermal viscous fan drive. # Remove fan blade/fan drive assembly from vehicle. # After removing fan blade/fan drive assembly, do not place the thermal viscous fan drive in the horizontal position. If stored horizontally, the silicone fluid in the viscous drive could drain into its bearing assembly and contaminate the bearing lubricant. # Do not remove the water pump pulley bolts at this time. # Remove accessory drive belt as follows: The drive belt is equipped with a spring loaded automatic belt tensioner Relax the tension from the belt by rotating the tensioner clockwise (as viewed from front) When all belt tension has been relaxed, remove accessory drive belt. # Remove the four water pump pulley-to-water pump hub bolts and remove pulley from engine. # Remove the lower radiator hose at water pump. # Loosen heater hose coolant return tube mounting bolt and remove tube from water pump. Discard the old tube o-ring. # Remove the seven water pump mounting bolts # Loosen the clamp at the water pump end of bypass hose Slip the bypass hose from the water pump while removing pump from engine. Do not remove the clamp from the bypass hose. # Discard old gasket CAUTION: Do not pry the water pump at timing chain case/cover. The machined surfaces may be damaged resulting in leaks. == # Clean gasket mating surfaces. # Using a new gasket, install water pump to engine as follows: Guide water pump fitting into bypass hose as pump is being installed. Install water pump mounting bolts Tighten bolts in a criss-cross pattern to 40 N·m (30 ft. lbs.) torque. # Position bypass hose clamp to bypass hose. # Spin water pump to be sure that pump impeller does not rub against timing chain case/cover. # Install a new o-ring to the heater hose coolant return tube Coat the new o-ring with antifreeze before installation. # Install coolant return tube and its mounting bolt to engine Be sure the slot in tube bracket is bottomed to mounting bolt. This will properly position return tube. # Connect radiator lower hose to water pump. # Connect heater hose and hose clamp to coolant return tube. # Install water pump pulley. Tighten bolts to 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) torque. Place a bar or screwdriver between water pump pulley bolts to prevent pulley from rotating. # Relax tension from automatic belt tensioner, Install drive belt CAUTION: When installing the serpentine accessory drive belt, belt must be routed correctly. If not, engine may overheat due to water pump rotating in wrong direction. # Install the fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly to water pump shaft. # Install fan shroud. # Install plastic air cleaner intake tube. # Install upper radiator hose and hose clamp to radiator. # Fill cooling system. # Connect negative battery cable. # Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.

Fuel pump, which is located under the intake, is upside down. Be care not to damage spacer plate. From there you will see the pump.

I am getting ready to attempt this same job on my 2500 4x4 truck leak in the same area in the frame rail near the fuel tank. If I have success I till let ya know what I did.

A common cause for an automatic choke to stick in a 318 Dodge truck is a dirty carburetor. A spray can be used to clean the carburetor to stop the choke from sticking.