Ford Bronco II

Spray some PB BLASTER on them and let them sit, it's a penetrating fluid. You can use heat if it is in a safe area to do it as in propane torch, and you can break them and then use what is called an E Z OUT where you can drill into the bolt after the head is broken off and then when you put the drill in reverse it bring the broken bolt out as it reverses. Check at Sears for one if you don't knwo what I mean.

It depends on the density of a material. The density can be calculated using: density = mass/volume.

This means that a very heavy object like a tanker can float on water because it has a large volume which makes its density less than that of water.

I just did it this weekend. It is not too fun. It does not require too many tools just patience. You have to remove the instrument panel and just about pull out the entire dash assy. You also have to open up A/C system if your car has A/C - need to have it evacuated by certified A/C tech because of R-12 refrigerant.

Engine compartment

1 Drain coolant from Radiator. 2 Disconnect 2 heater hoses at firewall 3 Disconnect A/C connections to Acumulator and cap to prevent contamination 4 Remove 2 7/16 nuts holding A/C acumulator to firewall - remove acumulator 5 There should be 2 more 7/16 flange nuts - remove those too they hold heater unit to firewall

Car interior

1 Remove the dash pad.

2 Remove the instrument cluster, disconnecting speedometer, and various electrical connections.

3 Remove glove box.

4 Behind glove box there is a metal bracket bolted to bottom of Dash remove bolt

5 There are 5 small 9/32 hex screws at the back near the windshield, remove all of these. They hold dash to firewall.

6 There are two 7/16 bolts that support the bottom of the dash on each side - passenger side is accessable after removing trim under dash. Driver side is up underneath dash.

7 Remove heater controls, I disconnected all the electrical comnections and vacuum connections, also disconnect heat mixer control from heater assy - it should snap off.

At this point the dash should move somewhat freely enough to remove heater assy

8 disconnect Electrical and vacuum connections to heater assy

9 remove 7/16 bolt that attaches heater to firewall from insider car ( underneath heater assy )

10 There are two brackets that hold heater assy to fire wall up under dash. Carefully pull dash away from mounting points to access these brackets and remove bolts.

Heater Assy should now be free to move - now comes the fun part, pulling it out. I was able to do it by pulling out the dash and carfully persuading the heater assy out. After you get the heater assy out the heater core can be removed easily. There are 4 screws holding the access cover on.

Putting it back together is just as fun as taking it out.

I am pretty sure its neutral buoyancy.

Just replace the word "greater" with the word "less"

and you've got yourself a true statement.

what is the question?

No.

to adjust the rocker arms you have to either tighten or loosen the top bolt on the rocker arm/arms that need to be adjusted. there is a specified torque for the rocker arms that you should follow to help you adjust the them

On a 1990 Bronco II it is located inside the left frame rail, about by the driver's side door. It is an in-line unit, about the size of a soup can, a little shorter.

Whether an object floats or sinks is a function of its relative density, to the medium in which it is placed. If the object is less dense, it floats, If it is more dense, it sinks.

Density = Mass per unit Volume

no.its pritty tough

ya man

things that have holes

decreases

Objects sink or float depending on their Mass and density. If the object has a Density LOWER than water, it will float. Higher than water will sink. You can find density by multiplying its Mass times its Volume, there you have its density. Water has a Density of 1, things with lower may sink, only slightly if there isn't much difference.

you need the key to get it out unless you a car thief.

a cylinder is a cone with a circle at the bottom and a wrapping

no the engine would still run fine if it spits and sputters sounds like timing mine did the same thing when i changed intake manifold gaskets

you sometimes can get a pic of the vac system from autozone.com under repair guides

It depends on the year and model of vehicle.

In modern vehicles it is simple as finding the relay in the fuse and relay box under the hood and pulling out the bad relay and replacing it with a new one.

In older cars the relays are still under the hood but you will need a book for that car that gives the location you can also try finding that information online there are several good sites but as always the right information is not always free.

On cars or truck made in the 70's and early 80's most were big bulky, most were called solinoids do to the size.

GM located theres on the starter and all it takes is to disconnect the battery and take the starter off. loosen the two bolts on the solinoid pull off the old coil and replace with a new part.

Ford put theirs on the fender wall which side??? well that depend on what side they wanted to put the battery and the starter on. Look at the positive battery cable abd follow it back to a cylindrical device with two big bolts and one or two smaller bolts. The solinoid is held to the fender wall by two or three bolts so disconnect the battery and the disconect all the wires and then the bolts. Then just work backwards in order to put it back on.

Chysler had both types so you will have to look and see which one was used.

Would sure be helpful to know the make/model/year/engine size in order to give a proper answer...

gravity and thrust

Mass = Density

Volume