Ford Escort ZX2

For a 2003 Ford Escort ZX2 :

The 2.0 litre DOHC four cylinder engine has a ( timing BELT )

According to the scheduled maintenance guide ( replace at 120,000 miles )

According to the 2002 Ford Escort Owner Guide :

The 2.0 liter , Dual Over Head Cam Zetec four cylinder engine takes :

The ( Motorcraft FL-2005 engine oil filter )

CHECK FUEL CAP, TIGHTEN FUEL CAP MESSAGES

This article applies to 05-06 Accords, 06 Civics, 05-06 CRV's 05-06 Elements, 05-06 Odysseys, 05-06 Pilots, 06 Ridgelines and 06 S2000s.

"If a vehicle's fuel fill cap is loose or missing, and the ECM/PCM detects an EVAP system leak when it runs the EVAP monitor, the CHECK FUEL CAP message appears on the information display when the engine is started. A temporary DTC is also stored in the ECM/PCM's memory. If this happens, there's really no need for the owner to bring the vehicle in for service. All he or she has to do is shut off the engine and make sure the fuel fill cap is in place and it's properly tightened.

Although the owner can cycle the message from the display with the reset button, the temporary DTC that's setting the message is still there. This means the message never really goes away. It can be cycled back with the reset button and it comes on again if the ignition switch is cycled or the engine is restarted. This message keeps coming back until the EVAP monitor runs again and it finds no EVAP system leak. This could take several days, even weeks, depending on how often the vehicle is driven.

If, when the next EVAP monitor runs, the cap wasn't tightened or there's another EVAP system leak detected, the MIL comes on and the message goes off. A permanent DTC is now stored in the ECM/PCM's memory. If the owner now tightens the cap, the MIL should go off after the next EVAP monitor run, yet this could still take days or weeks. If the MIL is still on after that monitor run, then it's time to bring the vehicle in for service.

If the vehicle comes into your shop with the fuel cap messaage or the MIL on. make sure the fuel fill cap is in place and properly tightened. Record the DTC, then clear it with the HDS and run the EVAP system function test. If there's still a problem, press on with normal troubleshooting."

well it does not have marks.you use a cam aline tool .the cams have slots in the ends of the cams.the tool looks like a straight edge 6inch long flat of metal.you stick the tool in the slots of the cams .after you set your crank to top dead center.to get this extact on zero you must screw a timing peg in the crank.the hole of it is behind the exhaust manold.which you will have to remove to get to the peg hole.a bolt is screwed in block in the front of the engine.you will have to remove the bolt.then screw the peg in the hole after you set the stroke on zero.you then set the cams with the cam aline tool i was talking about .its ready to put your time belt etc on.after you are done with all of this. remove the peg and cam tool and put the bolt back in the block.etc.i have done this engine before myself.

Check with the dealer but I am quite sure that this is an interference engine meaning when the cam belt breaks, the valves bend.

this is beyond incorrect^^^ these are non interference engines.. this link is to full instructons and good luckhttp://www.isuzone.org/forums/showthread.php?t=21686

If a Zx2 shudders and dies out at stops and idle, the idle might need adjusted. If the idle is set too low, it will not maintain enough power.

According to the 1999 Ford Escort Owner Guide ( 5W-30 )

With engine oil filter change :

The 2.0 liter DOHC , Zetec engine in the ZX2 model takes ( 4.5 U.S. quarts of 5W-30 )

The 2.0 liter SOHC in the sedan and wagon take ( 4.0 quarts )

the exhaust cam should be lined up 9 o clock position and the intake cam is lined at the 3 o clock position you pretty much have to get the align tool or otherwise a screwdriver in exhaust cam since it doesn't stay still

According to the 2003 Ford Escort Owner Guide :

With engine oil filter change :

The 2.0 liter DOHC , Zetec engine takes :

( 4.5 U.S. quarts of 5W-20 )

the transmission is located on the driver's side of the engine and yes the engine has to be removed to change the transmission

replace the mounts

I believe it is plugged into the back of the instrument panel. The instrument panel is the area that you see your speedometer, odometer, fuel gauge ect... You generally have to remove the steering wheel, the cover for the turning signal switch and such.

MAP sensor on my Escort is on o/s engine compartment. connected to the inlet manifold by rubber tubing via small fuel trap on side of air filter. 3 wires via plug come out the bottom of unit, and go off somewhere technical.

If the voltage level is low or the battery is not getting an adequate charge, you may have an alternator problem. Unfortunately, there are no single lights, gauges or other indicators that you can look at to see for certain that it's the alternator. The best way to check the condition of an alternator is to take the vehicle to an auto parts retailer, such as Auto Zone or whatever their competition is in your area. They'll generally test your entire charging system and tell you what's wrong. They do this in hopes that you'll buy the replacment parts from them, so they don't charge for that service. If you don't really want to take it anywhere, see if you can get a volt meter. Test the battery voltage when the vehicle is not running. With the meter turned on, just hold the point of the red wire against the positive battery terminal and the point of the black wire against the negative battery terminal. The battery should show very close to 12 Volts DC. Don't use the AC scale, or the amps or any other feature of the meter, since it is quite possible that doing so would destroy the meter. The battery terminal will not harm YOU. It's only 12 volts, not even enough to feel. If the voltage is low, for example around 10 volts or less, you may need to charge the battery or get a battery boost from another vehicle before the car will even start. Once the car is started, make sure all other charging devices and vehicles are disconnected from the vehicle you're testing. Connect the meter to the battery again and find out what the voltage is when the engine is running. Have a friend bring the engine up just a little from idle when you test the voltage. You should get about 13.5 Volts DC, but your vehicle may be a little different, and the meter may be calibrated a little off as well, but if it's anywhere from 13 to 14 volts, the alternator is probably working ok. Turn on the lights, rear window defroster, AC and wipers to see if the voltage goes down. No matter what accessories you turn on, the alternator should be able to keep the voltage constant. If not, it's probably a faulty alternator.

Check all of your blinker lights. There are two in each tail light, one in each center signal, and one at the corner of each headlight, a total of 8 lights should blink when you have the flashers on. If a bulb is burnt out, it will increase the blink rate. Also, installing LED's in the tail lights will cause the blink rate to increase.

The timing belt tensioner is under the timing cover(you most likely have that off already). I believe it is a 14mm bolt keeping it down, loosen that bolt and remove the tensioner spring with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Don't drop the spring!

Yes, there is an engine diagram for a 1998 Ford Escort Zx2. It is found in the manual specified for this car.

2000

The problem might not be a fuse. There is a switch which activates the brake lights when the brake pedal is depressed. This switch is usually mounted under the dash, near the top of the brake pedal lever. Insure that this switch is free to move physically, and test it to see if it is switching electrically.

The most common problem I have seen with an automatic shifting hard without a pattern in the wrong fluid level. Check the tranny fluid with the car running after going through all of the gears. You can over-fill the transmission causing it to act up.

Make sure the oil isn't black also. Remember, the engine has to be at idle; a common error.

If it throws the "service engine soon" light; get it read free at a shop. If the oil is good and the light never came on; send a reply and I can help you further.

On most ND three pin plug style alternators the pins are marked as "L" / "S" / "IG" The only other connection is usually a large single post terminal marked "B" This is the main wire connected to your battery and is hot at all times.

The three others are fairly easy to understand.

"IG" This is the Ignition wire and issues the "wake up" to energise the circuit when ignition is switched on

"L" This terminal is connected through to the charge warning light on your instrument cluster

"S" This terminal is connected to your battery source and is hot at all times, it may even be connected to the main wire on the large B terminal in the loom but more often to the battery through a fusible link

hope this helps

I'm trying to figure that out myself. I do know you need a can of maf cleaner, about $7. You have to be careful not to damage the maf or a new one is $125. Spray a few inches away, I would think. Like I said, trying to find out myself.

Take the negative cable off the battery and wait 1 minute for the backup supply of current to dissipate in the air bag system.

1. Insert special tool (Ford T 87P-19061-A) to separate the radio from the mounting bracket. If you don't have the special tool you can us lengths of a coathanger.

2. Slip the radio out far enough to disconnect the antenna lead and electrical connectors.

3. Installation is the reverse of these steps.

Yes , Gates ( they make timing belts etc. ) shows it as an interference engine