Ford Escort

the thermostat is located between the thermostat housing and the cylinder head.

To locate the thermostat housing you can follow the upper radiator hose. The part connecting the upper radiator hose to the cylinder head/engine is the thermostat housing. To remove it to access the thermostat will require the use of a 10mm wrench and the draining of the engine coolant

check the idle speed with the car in gear, if it has a tac on the dash it should idle in gear at about 700 rpm if its too low the car will vibrate or stall.

2000.00

You have to split the transmission, maybe even drop it out. There might be some helpful info on www.autozone.com

yes

Depends, if you are replacing all fluid it is about 4 to 5 quarts. There is a dip stick for measuring the right amount. Put some in, start the car and run it around the block going through some gears, then park the car, leave it running and check the dip stick. Add more if needed and repeat the process until at the full mark. Use this same process if just adding a little but run the car around the block and check the stick first.

On the front of the exhaust manifold you will see your sensor, otherwise, it may be before the catalytic converter on the underside of your car, it helps to go out and buy a special wrench made especially for removing the O2 sensor. Unplug the sensor from it's wiring, then use the wrench to remove the sensor, don't forget to spray it down with a good lubricant such as kroil or wd-40 an let it penetrate for a few minutes before attempting to remove it.

Look on a car like yours.

Look for the light bulb that has 3 wires. Brake light bulbs do double duty. In addition to being a brake light, they are also a tail light.

I had the same problem which I solved by switching on all the other lights [tail and hazards] which left a choice of any one from two. I guessed lucky first time and still don`t know what the fourth bulb is for.

For a 1999 Escort, open the trunk and remove the 2 screws that hold the taillight assembly to the car. Pull the tail light assembly out from the rear a bit and then toward the side of the car. There are two metal nipples lodged in plastic holders farther up the side of the car. These will come out eventually, allowing the whole assembly to come out to replace the bulbs. However, they may stick a bit, requiring some mixture of persistence and force.

You many notice the plastic holders for those nipples on the inside of the trunk. Try to resist the urge to take a large tool and do something to them, as tempting as it is. It isn't necessary.

Once the assembly is loose from the car, you will see the individual bulb holders. Turn the holder counter-clockwise to access the bulb. Remove the bulb carefully by pulling it out of the socket. Push in the new bulb, and reassemble the rest by reversing the above steps.

In my 98 escort wagon, the brake light bulb is located at the lowest position in my tail light assembly.

First off you didn't say why you would want to replace the brake line. I have never worked on a Ford Escort-- but almost all cars are the same. The brake line runing from the front of the car to the back is a metal tubing, and I will assume that is what you are wanting to replace. Usually the tubing hooks to the Master Cylinder at the front, and runs to the back to a "block" of somekind welded or bolted at the rear of the car. The "block" is there to be used to extend the brake lines farther. Usually the tube goes into the block, and than a soft line is ran from the other side of the "block" to the wheel cylinder which is located on the brake drum assembly. This way the soft tube (also part of the brake line system) can flex as the wheel travels up and down, which a hard line can not do. On some cars, that "block" is used to bring the fluid to the back of the car, going into the "block" and than two hard lines come back out and runs to each side of the car, than it goes into another "block" to allow the soft line to be installed to the wheel cylinder. The "block" is more or less an adapter and that's all it does. There is nothing inside those "blocks", its just a point to add more brake lines, that continue onto the wheel cylinder. NOW -- unless the tubing from the front to the back has been damaged, there is no reason to replace it since it is metal. You can disconnect it from the front, and at the rear block, and blow air thur it to make sure it is not clogged. If it isn't clogged than there is no problem with that brake line, unless you can see it leaking. If it is damaged, the first thing you need to do is follow it from front to back to see if it goes under the body and is easy to get to, some cars have the brake line running under the car, some cars have the brake line going thru the tunnel between the front seats and to the back of the car, and some cars have the brake line under the carpeting going to the back of the car. Under the car brake lines are easy to replace, they are usually just held in by clips attached to the frame. If the brake line goes thru the interior, than it maybe a real job to get to it and replace it. The other problem is the year of the car. Unless the dearlership still has factory brake lines for that year, you are kind of in a bind. You can buy brake line tubing and make your own, but you will need the tools to cut and bend the brake lines, and tools to attach the ends that are needed for the brake line, without the tools, you will have to take it to someone with the tools that can do that, you cannot bend the metal brake lines by hand, they kink, that's why you need a tube bender. And you need a flaring tool to be able to attach the ends needed to the brake line, and a tubing cutter to cut the brake line, hacksaws don't work to well for this type of job. I hope this has been of help to you, if you know what your doing, its not hard to replace brake lines or make your own, just takes a little practice.

On many cars you can go to the dealer and he can cut you a key by your giving him the VIN on your car. I assume you have lost your key and don't have one to get a copy made of. Of coure, you can always have a locksmith make you a key from another lock on your car that uses the same key as the ignition. This is what I would do if I didn't have a key to get a copy made of. I think it would be much more economical to have a key made rather than replacing all of the locks on your car.

Replace the fuse and the relay called the CCRM (Constant Control Relay Module).

The dash has to come out to get to the heater core. It's quite a job and this may be a job you want to hire someone else to do. The heater core in my 97 was leaking coolant so I put a small bottle of Alumaseal in the radiator. Some will say this will clog up the radiator, but I have found that not to be the case.

It stopped the leak. I have had no further problems.

check the fuel solenoid is working usually by wriggling the single wire on the top will show if it cuts out if so replace

According to a website I was looking at :

For a 1998 Ford Escort , 2.0 liter four cylinder engine :

( 24 city / 34 highway , 5 speed manual )

( 22 / 31 , automatic )

* miles per U.S. gallon

IF YOU ARE UNSURE GO AND LOOK IN YOUR NEAREST SCRAPYARD AND SEE HOW IT IS WIRED IF THAT DOES NOT WORK PUT THE WIRES WHERE YOU THINK THEY GO AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS AFTER ALL ITS ONLY A HORN. PS I AM AN ELECTRICIAN

I would check the ignition module located immediately to the right of your valve cover. A friend of mine has a Chevy Corsica that had the ignition control module or coil go bad and his car ran terrible. Ford stopped using distributors in Ford Escorts and their other 4 cylinder cars, because

the TFI module on the distributor were notorious for going bad.

Anything is possible. How much money and time do you want to invest.

There should be a radiator drain plug on the bottom corner of the radiator. (varies on which side) You'll probably have to remove some of the plastic skid plates on the bottom to get at it. Or if you want, just remove the lower radiator hose from the radiator and let it drain that way.

To bleed a cooling system means to purge air out of it. Just take the radiator cap off and let it run for a short time. the excess air will come out.You may have to replace coolant .

Bad thermostat would be the first thing to check. After that, heater core. I tried replacing the thermostat. No good. I moved to the heater core. Diconnected the hoses and ran a garden hose into it to "flush" it and a bunch of black stuff came out. Hooked it all back up and works great. Not sure where the black stuff came from but it was apparently keeping the coolant from flowing and heating properly in the core.

Use keys 1-4 to select the numbers so press key 1 till the first digit is correct the key 2 till second is correct and so on then press 5 to enter

Try resetting the fuel cut off switch and see if the engine will start

Water

Remove hoses. Inject water into heater water output connection but be carefull not to use full pressure of house supply.