Ford Windstar LX

I have a 2000 Windstar SE, and just had to remove the door panel to replace the lock actuator. Here are the steps I took:

Windstar: Removing Inner Door Panel

- Remove two screws from bottom of door. - Carefully pop triangular black fascia from upper front corner (pry from top with flat head screwdriver), then remove screw behind it. - Pop trim piece from inner door handle (pry from front) - Pop power lock/window panel loose (pry around), then unplug switches. - Remove two screws very deeply inset on armrest. - Gently lift upward and outward on door inner. Once you have a gap, twist and release the light socket in the inner door panel.

- If removing lock assembly, unscrew the three nuts holding the outer door handle, then remove it from the outside. - Disconnect the two electrical connectors from the lock assembly if removing.

I do not know what year you have but I have a 1999 WS and you have to replace the whole assembly (framework and motor, motor is not sold seperatly). You will need to remove the door panel and all mounting bolts for the framework. The whole thing will then slide out (not easily) through the cut outs on the door. Replace with the new unit just like the old one was removed. This will take two people. One person will need to hold the window while the other is working with the assembly. I replaced mine with much cussing and swearing in about 2 hours. It is not a hard job just aggravating.

Note: I changed the mirror on the passenger door, but most of these instructions apply to either side.

Tools you will need: Large flathead screwdriver, Philips screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, socket wrench with 7/16-inch socket.

The mirror is held on by three nuts on the inside of the door. Getting to two of them is quite easy -- it's the third one that requires taking off the interior door panel, as mentioned below. If you are moderately handy with tools, you can do it yourself. Otherwise, take it to a mechanic. Also, it helps to have a second person available.

1. Roll down the window and open the van door in question. Pop off the black plastic cover at the top and front of the door panel by prying gently on the top of the cover with a large flathead screwdriver. The cover is held in place by three metal tension clips. This uncovers one of the mirror nuts.

2. Just forward of the door panel, you will find a round rubber plug. Pull this out of its hole to reveal nut #2.

3. Gently pry off the black plastic cover that surrounds the interior door handle. It is held in place by three metal tension clips. As it comes loose, slip it off over the door handle. (This is the one step where the driver and passenger doors are different. On the driver's door, the electric mirror control is mounted in this black plastic cover. You will probably need to disconnect a small wire harness from the back of this control in order to completely remove the cover, or just leave it dangling by the wires.)

4. Gently pry up the front end of the lighter-colored plastic piece to which the electric window and lock switches are mounted. Once the front is loose, pull the piece forward to fully loosen it. It can be left sitting loosely with the wires still attached.

5. You have now uncovered a Philips-head screw just where the switch carrier meets the armrest in the door panel. This screw attaches the door panel to the door. Remove it.

6. There are two Philips-head screws at the very bottom of the door panel. Remove them.

7. The door panel is now free and is being held in place because it is hooked over the window opening. Carefully lift up the panel, clearing the lock post, and pull the panel away from the door. You do not need to remove it fully but can find a way to rest it on the door.

8. You have now uncovered the third and final mirror nut -- it may be hidden behind another rubber plug like you removed in step 2.

9. About 8 inches below this third nut, you will find the connection for the mirror wire harness. Disconnect the wire harness and push the loose end into the door.

10. Remove the three mirror nuts with a socket wrench and 7/16-inch socket. The mirror will probably need to be pried away from the door because the foam sealant material has it stuck on. Once the mirror comes fully free, carefully pull the wire harness out of the door.

11. Follow these steps in reverse (more or less) to install the new mirror and replace the panel and other trim pieces (don't forget the rubber plug that ends up under the door panel!).

you have to pull off the door panel first. the are plastic pieces that need to be pried off and screws that are hidden. i would suggest taking it to a shop and let them do it. they shouldn't charge you more than $50 (independent shop) $100 (dealership). the pieces that can and will break are much more expensive.

first you will need to remove the door panel. Then you see behind the mirror on the door 3 nuts to remove and if electric you will need to unplug the jack first.

Not sure if it will be the same for the 2000 Windstar. I changed the whole mirror assembly on my 98 passanger side. There are 3 nuts holding the assembly on the door. You must first remove the inside door panel by removing the cover around the door opener handle. There is a screw behind it once that is removed you can remove the panel by lifting up on the panel. you can then unplug the power window and lock buttons if you like( it does make it easier). then you have access to the nuts holding the mirror assembly one once you remove the little black rubber plugs. Unplug the power mirror cable and then reinstall the new one in the opposite order as the removal. .

The door panel could then be removed by lifting up and towards the back of the car. The two power connectors near the middle of the panel unplug by depressing a tab on them and the courtesy light near the bottom rear of the door panel can be removed by twisting counter clockwise.

There are 3 nuts holding on the mirror assembly, two of which are under black plastic/rubber hole-filler grommets. Be careful not to drop the nuts down in the door panel! I used an 11mm socket with a magnet to keep the nuts from dropping.

The power connector for the mirror motor/heater is under some white foam sound proofing. I peeled back a portion of it to expose the power connector. After unplugging the connector, I tied a piece of sturdy string to the old power connector before removing the mirror so that the string "fished" through the door panel as I removed the mirror and cord. I then untied the string from the old connector and tied it onto the new mirror's connector and pulled the cord back through the door panel. I think it would be very difficult otherwise to get the connector back through the door panel.

The remainder of the installation was just a reverse of the removal.

MirrorGlassPlus.com offers replacement mirror glass which is an exact match to your existing factory mirror. That means it will have the same size, shape, bend and features as your existing factory mirror. Installation is always quick and easy, typically taking about 30 minutes. * Smooth seamed edges for safe handling * First-surface chrome reduces glare * Part# lasered on every mirror * Protective safety-orange packaging * Installation guide printed right on the box * Includes Redi Stick® adhesive patches

Yes.

See "Related Links" below to the Autzone.com repair guide with detailed instructions and photos for replacing either front or rear heater cores.

NOTE: Autozone now requires free registration to access the repair guides. More than worth the extra effort for these photo/illustrated instructions.

That is one possibility. Another is a vacuum leak. Personal experience with help from someone in a forum: Check the plastic hose in the engine compartment on the firewall side of the passenger-side hinge. It can rub against a metal tube (for instance) and eventually wear a hole in the hose. I didn't want to tape it, afraid it might not last in hot engine compartment, or that it might block vacuum. Sales staff at AutoZone gave me ~1" piece of connecting hose. Cut vacuum hose at leak and install connecting hose. Leak wasn't bad enough to affect the front A/C.

try changing the rear air control switch on your das panel. this happened to me on my 96. or it could be a vacuum leak. more than likely the switch. about 30 bucks at ford

Hope that helps!!!

blender door not working

Ours did the same thing in blowing hot air to the floor even when the AC was on.

It is a bad switch on the front of your van- the switch where you can either control the rear climate or switch it to rear control (the one all the way to the right if I remember right). If you are in a pinch and don't want to buy a new switch you can manually manipulate the vacuum lines on the back of the switch. If you take your console cover off and unscrew the plate that fastens the 4 switches to the dash you have access to the wires and vacuum lines. If I remember right there is a yellow and a tan vacuum line that you can pull out from the switch. If you use a piece of small flexible plastic tubing you can put a "jumper" on those two vacuum lines for the summer. I found that a piece of wire insulation works great (strip a piece of wire and use the piece you remove from the wire). For the winter just remove the jumper and the heater will work. Doing this just affects the setting of hot or cold and has nothing to do with the fan speed so everything will work as normal except you have to switch the jumper as applicable for hot/cold.

my 1998 windstar was blowing hot air from the rear vents when i turned on the ac and turned on the rear fan from the front controls , the rear fan control the one right behind the drivers seat next to the ear phone jacks did not function so i disconected it and it started to blow cold air.;.; so i have to think it was a broken switch;..;.;wierd huh

if your vehicle is using dual aircon meaning to say a separate evaporator for front passenger and a evaporator system for back passenger then possibly the problem is the expansion valve of the back passenger evaporator system. it is not any more functioning properly and it has to service by a qualified aircon technician to properly removed the refrigerant ,full down the said evaporator system to be able to replace the defective expansion valve. They will have the evaporator clean and install new expansion valve with same capacity as the defective one. After they have installed it and charge the system then you will enjoy a cold ride.

Here is how I changed my power window motor and regulator with pictures:

(clickable "Related Link" below)

http://sites.Google.com/site/powerwindowregulator/home

Sidebar: Let's hear a round of applause for D0gB0one! If you benefit from his how-to guide, recommend him and add a note to this page's Discussion.

Autozone has motors alone $45-75, regulator plus motor combinations are $70

All are remanufactured units

1995-1998 Windstar - Engine compartment fusebox / distribution center: fuse letter "G"

1999-2003 Windstar - fuse #'s 106 (passenger side) and 113 (drivers side) in the ENGINE COMPARTMENT fusebox control the power window motors.

The above information was referenced in the respective OWNERS MANUAL.

See "Related Questions" below for more

Make sure the motor is in fact bad... Many times they just stop working because the armature brushes hang up and will not make contact with the motor armature. Sometimes you can slam the car door and this will jar the brushes and they will make contact with the armature. If this doesn't work you will need to remove the door panel and reach inside the door where the window motor is located and tap the electric motor with a small hammer or some other suitable object. While you are tapping the motor have someone hold the window switch in a functioning position, either up or down depending on the position of your window. I have done this many many times and hopefully it will work for you and you will not have to replace the motor. Good luck

***I tried the above tapping the motor suggestion (what did I have to lose--didn't think it could be so simple) and THANK YOU VERY MUCH! It worked for my 2001 Windstar.****

***Ditto!! I tried the tapping on the motor solution and the motor sprang to life! This just saved me anywhere from $70 for motor alone to $150+ to have the motor replaced. Thanks again!!!!!

****Double ditto! The hammer tap worked the trick. Thank you for the very good advice

I just replaced the LF window motor / regulator on our 2001 Windstar.

Here are the basic steps it took me to get the new motor / regulator assembly installed.

NOTE: The window doesn't have to come out for this repair.

Remove inside door panel -

1. remove plastic corner piece - it snaps out, a clip and tab hold it in place.
2. remove lock stem.
3. remove plastic fascia piece around door handle, it also snaps out, single clip and tab.
4. remove 5 panel screws (7mm), 2 at base, 2 in arm rest, and 1 in upper corner, where the corner piece was.

   The door panel can now be lifted off some plastic molded hooks that hold it on the frame.

   1. there are 3 wiring quick disconnects that need disconnecting from window/lock switches on the arm rest
   2. The courtesy light needs to be rotated out from the panel as well.
5. As you work the panel loose from the door:
6. Remove the foam from door frame.
7. You should also remove the speaker - the hole it vacates is useful for working on the regulator / assembly replacement

Now, the regulator is held in place by 4 rivets and threaded stem & nut and 2 tabs. With the panel and foam removed, you can easily see them. It is also attached by rivets to the window in 2 places at the bottom of the window. And, it is attached to a guide bar across the large opening in the frame.

The guide bar needs to be removed first. Remove the 2 nuts (11mm) that attach it to the frame and it can be worked off the regulator assembly and out of the opening.

Then, The rivets need to be drilled out, the 4 in the door frame and the 2 holding the window to the regulator assembly., the window rivets can be a pita - I used a Dremmel with a cutting wheel. Before starting the rivet removals, I used duct tape to hold the window up in place. But once the guide bar, 4 frame rivets, and stem nut are removed, the whole thing, window and all can be moved up/down in the door frame - and need to be to get at the rivets that attach the window to the regulator assembly. Move the window to a place so that you can get to the attaching rivets, you'll obviously have to loosen the tape to do so but then tape it where it works for getting at the window rivets (the pita part of this job).

Once the window rivets are removed, the regulator assembly can be removed through the large opening in the frame. New one goes in as old came out. Attach window to it - I used nuts/bolts, short enough to ensure there wouldn't be any interference. Not too tight, need the bushings to move as window goes up/down. Now - the new regulator assembly i got was slightly different in that the threaded stem was about 1/2" forward of the old one - so the hole the stem goes through had to be opened up toward the front of the van about 1/2" (turned it into a slot). With some time, a few choice words, and patience, the stem and tabs can be put in place in the frame and the new regulator assembly reattached to the frame. Again, I used nuts/bolts and couldn't replace the 2 inner rivets because of space constraints. I figured that the tabs, stem and 2 that I could replace could do the job of holding it in place.

Then, replace things as they came off. Don't for get the courtesy light and quick connects!

I've had to replace both assemblies and I was informed of a shortcut (after my first replacement job) that allows the replacement without having to remove the rivets...

once you have the door cover and foam removed look for two small divets/dents located in the area of the four rivets. Once you locate them drill them out with at least a 1/2" drill bit. Right behind the new holes are the two nuts holding the regulator in place. remove the two nuts and remove the regulator then reverse the procedure to put the new regulator in place.

Removing the door panel is the easy part. A redesign of the regulator means that a new motor will not fit on the old original 2001 regulator. Not only are the mounting holes different but so is the electrical connector. You could perhaps find an old motor at the junk yard but it will most likely fail just like the original design. There are six rivets. Two hold the window to the regulator and four hold the regulator to the door. The new regulator requires you enlarge one of the mounting holes. The difficult part for me was the window being riveted to the regulator. I did not want to drill out the rivets on the window and did not have a rivet gun that could handle a 1/4" rivet. Most homeowner rivet guns are for 3/16" and smaller rivets. The door rivets can be replaced with short 1/4" bolts. After many hours and hassles with wrong parts I opted to take the vehicle to an auto glass business and gave them a new regulator/motor assembly ($87 from Ford). Depending on how nice the glass people are it is still cheaper than having Ford do it. If you have the correct tools and rivets plus don't mind working with the glass it can be done at home.

I just removed mine by drilling 1/2" holes in the metal door over the two 5/16" nuts that hold the gear assembly to the regulator(there were dimples in the door above each nut). That allowed me to remove those two nuts. Then the third fastener was a bolt that projected through the door, which could be removed with a 5/32" socket on the torx type bolt head.Once those three nuts were removed the gear assembly fell away from the regulator without having to touch the glass or remove the regulator.

First you remove the back window corner panel. It pulls right off. Then you pop off the black cover from around the handle. There is a screw on the top holding the panel on , remove screw and remove the screws at the bottom of the panel and lift off panel. Roll plastic down. Drill out the 3 rivets holding the motor in place and remove bolts to swing motor to opening. Install in reverse order .Bolt new motor in place. Be careful with spring inside door can cut you use gloves, and watch out for window track, it locks into place.

Remove the door panel first,and the inside cover you'l see three pilote holes drill these out with a 1/2 inch bit this will expose the three small bolts holding the motor remove them with a small ratchet unplug the motor and replace.

To check the motor remove the door trim panel, disconnect electrical connector at motor, using a test light put one end of light into one side of connector and other end into other side of connector, (install light in place of motor), activate window up/down switch, if light illuminates change the motor, if not you have a wiring problem.

I am having the same problem as you are with my 95 Windstar but my windows work intermitantly. First thing I would do is check the fuses. There are separate fuses for driver and passenger windows. If this isn't the problem then I would check the relays for the windows. They might be sticking or something. You can buy new ones from NAPA for about $7 each.

I personally try the cheap approach first. If this isn't the answer, then get a tester and see if you have power to the window motor. If you do have power when the door switch is activated, then you have a bad motor. I would then recommend that a dealer replace because glass breaks easily.

Also Try this!!!

Make sure the motor is in fact bad... Many times they just stop working because the armature brushes hang up and will not make contact with the motor armature. Sometimes you can slam the car door and this will jar the brushes and they will make contact with the armature. If this doesn't work you will need to remove the door panel and reach inside the door where the window motor is located and tap the electric motor with a small hammer or some other suitable object. While you are tapping the motor have someone hold the window switch in a functioning position, either up or down depending on the position of your window. I have done this many many times and hopefully it will work for you and you will not have to replace the motor. Good luck

Make sure the motor is in fact bad... Many times they just stop working because the armature brushes hang up and will not make contact with the motor armature. Sometimes you can slam the car door and this will jar the brushes and they will make contact with the armature. If this doesn't work you will need to remove the door panel and reach inside the door where the window motor is located and tap the electric motor with a small hammer or some other suitable object. While you are tapping the motor have someone hold the window switch in a functioning position, either up or down depending on the position of your window. I have done this many many times and hopefully it will work for you and you will not have to replace the motor. Good luck

Remove the door trim panel. Pull off plastic cover. Unplug the regulator. Position glass by hand until you can remove rivets from door glass. Tilt glass and lift out. Drill out all the rivets holding the regulator in. Remove regulator. Install new regulator. Rivet new regulator. Reinstall glass. Rivet glass to regulator. Plug in regulator.

I have a 1995 Windstar and the passenger power window kept getting stuck and wouldn't come down for weeks at a time,then it would work. I pulled off the door panel there are 1 or 2 screws by the arm rest you need to unscrew,then pull off the electrical connector for the power mirror,locks and window.first check if you have power to the switch with a test light,if yes then switch looks ok,then pull off the connector to the power motor ,put the window switch back together.if test light goes on at the connector when you press the power window switch,power is making it to the motor.To remove the motor you have to drill out the rivets that hold the motor to the door,remove the connector then to replace you have to drill out the rivet holes to a larger size cause you have to replace them with bolts to put the nw motor in. BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE OLD MOTOR try hitting the old motor with a hammer not very hard to damage but give it a good hit,because some times the gears bind and that's why the power window doesn't work even when you have power to the motor. It's a pain in the @#$# to change that motor,the the hammer first. I chg the motor then afterward found out the motor was still good. The gears were binding that's why the window would work sometimes and sometimes not. See "Related Questions" below for more

TAke it to a garage and have them do a wet and dry compression test on it and listen for unusual noises.

Worked for me on 1999 Windstar, Thanks!

Just want to say thanks to all for posting the detailed instructions! I generally limit repairs to things I can do with a can of spray lube and an adjustable wrench. What I feared might blow my whole Sunday afternoon was done in under an hour to reinstall ( i.e. after I determined it was the motor, and had the partl). Wife was totally impressed!

$61 US for full motor-regulator assembly at Advanced Auto in Arlington, VA.

I followed the written and the images shown at

http://sites.google.com/site/powerwindowregulator/home.

Thanks for taking the time to add detail

Excellent suggestion to NOT remove the channel connected to the window, but rather bend the small metal stops and sliding the nylon rollers out. With this method, you'll need to do the same to remove the channel from the new regulator / motor before installing. This is basically a good 'dry run' for what you need to do for the existing channel inside the door.

I had some trouble sliding the existing nylon rollers out of the window channel because there was a small screw from the nylon clamp holding the window. A slight pry with a screwdriver got it past. The replacement nylon slides are much narrower (perhaps for this reason) and insert easily without hitting this screw.

Duct tape was also a great idea. My window was stuck in the up position. During the install, I needed to lower to about ½ way down get the new motor to line up with the holes and everything put together and tested. Duct tape made this easy to adjust and avoided the need to have a 3rd hand, which was not readily available.

I have the same thing wring with mine. The auto place told me that the egr valve will make the o2 sensor seem bad, so now im going to change the egr valve and hope the o2 senor is still good.

prob low on coolant. More then likely though you need to flush the radiator. Because when you rev the system fan forces air into system and cools vehicle somewhat check coolant had this same problem from a leak in my water pump at freeway speeds and being a cool day ran great but during idle almost immediate overheating

• Engine cooling fans are working - fuses, are plugged in, relays working
  
  

• Radiator / cooling system flush - to be honest, I'd suggest having it professionally done. Find a Fall special at a local repair shop
  
  
• Water pump - the water pump 'impeller' can wear or come loose from the shaft

You may have 2 separate problems working here:

• False door ajar warnings
• A leaking brake pressure switch.