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Ford Windstar
The Windstar was a minivan manufactured by the American automaker Ford Motor Company. This front wheel drive (FWD) minivan was manufactured in two generation models from 1994 to 2003.
2,843 Questions
Intake manifold bolts torque ford windstar?
2000 3.8 Lower intake manifold (manifold to cylinder head) 1st step is 44 inch pounds, 2nd step is 89 inch pounds. This must be done in sequence.
How do you turn on the light flash on unlock with the remote for an 03 windstar?
I recall seeing this mentioned as I was perusing my Owners Manual one boring night... I think it was in the same section that talks about the "auto-lock" function.
See "Related Questions" below for links to free Owners Manual downloads... I'm confident you'll find the instructions there.
The overdrive light blinks when the computer senses a transmission problem. (IE. Torque Converter failure) The reason it feels like it downshifts is due to the computer putting the transmission into a fail-safe mode to reduce further transmission damage.
Where is the water pump on a 98 ford windstar?
Follow the LOWER radiator hose from the radiator .
It connects to the water pump on the engine on a 1998 Ford Windstar
How do you install a serpentine belt on a 1995 Ford Windstar?
First of all, you will need to locate the drive belt tensioner and the drive belt tensioner pulley. There should be a belt routing map under the hood.
If you have a 6 cyl 3.0L engine: the drive belt tensioner is located between the crankshaft pulley and the water pump pulley and the drive belt tensioner pulley is located between the alternator (or generator) and power steering pump.
If you have a 6 cyl 3.8L engine, the drive belt tensioner is located at the very back of the engine (if you follow the belt back from the alternator, the first pulley you come to will be the drive best tensioner) and it's very inconvenient to get to. The drive belt tensioner pulley is located between the alternator and the power steering pump pulley.
Per Chilton's manual, use a 15mm wrench on the bolt of the drive belt tensioner and rotate the tensioner clockwise to release the tension. Remove the belt from the drive belt tension pulley. When installing the new belt, make sure that the drive belt is routed correctly and note the position of the indicator mark on the tensioner.
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NOTE: The above, is mostly correct, with the exception that the tensioner pulley is NOT between the alternator and power steering pump on the 3.8 litre. The power steering pump is located on the forward most portion of the motor, on the passenger side of the vehicle. The only pulley close to being in between both of those pulleys is the idler pulley, not tensioner. The tensioner is however the furthest towards the firewall of all the pulleys, as stated above.
To state that the tensioner pulley is located in an area that is "inconvenient" is an understatement to the extreme. There is barely enough room to get your arm in there and if your a big man, forget it. Find someone with thinner proportions. Or, get a REALLY long 15mm wrench. When I say that, I mean something along the lines of 3 ft. in length. That does not have an angled box end.
Failing that, and as an aside, I would like to share a "mechanics technique" for applying leverage, when you don't have enough, and are working with limited space that do not allow for sockets, and you don't have a breaker bar that will fit over the end of the wrench, as I discovered mine would not.
What I did, in this instance, for releasing the tension on the belt pulley's, as I needed to replace the alternator in this case, was I placed the 15mm wrench on the tensioner bolt. I feel it is important to note, that I was using an angled box end to do this portion of the job, which is NOT the best choice, but it was what I had. I had the open end facing up, and the angle head was placed in such a manner as to have the open end leaning towards the distributor. I then took a large (1" open/box end) wrench, which so happened to be about a foot long, and placed open end horizontal and slid it into the open end of the 15mm. There was no room to do this in the traditional manner, which is to actually hook the box end around the open end, in such a way as to make two wrenches extend and become one. The hood sill is in the way. So I placed the two open ends together.
When I pressed downwards on the box end of the 1" wrench, it gave enough extra leverage, that I was able to rotate the tensioner and release the belt. You MUST push down on this enough to come close to the alternator itself, for this to work, but the combination of wrenches is a viable solution, if you can't just go out and purchase a crowbar, or don't have the proper length of 15mm to give you the leverage that you need. This technique will also allow you to work with your free hand to remove the belt from the alternator. When you release your tension again, the end of your 15mm should rest against the A/C hoses at the firewall. This is fine, as the tension this creates will keep the tensioner pulley available and you can remove the larger wrench from the equation temporarily, until you are ready to place the belt over the final pulley. Or when you are done replacing the alternator.
As a note of caution, if you are using this technique, do be aware of your angles. If the leverage wrench slips, the belt will snap instantly back into place. KEEP YOUR FINGERS CLEAR OF THE PULLEYS and be MINDFUL of your steadiness when working this leverage technique. It ISN'T the most stable. The tensioner clamps down with enough force, that you CAN lose fingers... Or at least have them crushed. I don't want that happening to you.
I people with a creative solution to tensioner pulley leverage issues. It is simple and very effective, but caution is warranted.
The forum is working! The info provided for changing serpentine belt on 95 Ford Windstar was invaluable to my success, albeit I have a 3.8L 1996 Windstar. Thanks for participating people! As an addendum that someone might find of use to remove/replace belt as the solution was different from anything I found�
Pulley locations: Looking across engin from passenger side(Failed to maintain formatting of poor man's diagram. Check on hood for belt ID and layout; found one on internet as well:
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/jpg/small0900823d801d2c16.jpg
Refer to above link for pulley IDs as I reference them by number.
Finally determined the drive belt tensioner pulley (#4) gave up the ghost causing belt to pop off. As of Sept 05, Ford dealer: ~$33.00. Internet: ~$16.00, but when you can�t wait for delivery�Ford dealer (tried Pep Boys & AutoZone, didn�t have).
1)Replaced #4 pulley (comes w/mounting bolt) using an 18mm ratcheting combo wrench made by GearWrench and purchased from Lowes (~$10). Chose this as the ratchet side is as thin as the crescent side (too small a space for normal ratchet w/socket).
2) I routed belt per drawing on vehicle leaving belt off #4 and using someone�s forum suggestion, I taped belt to #6 pulley w/only masking tape which worked well enough to hold belt in position.
3) Purchased a 14 inch crowbar (called a �construction tool� by Lowes) for $9.00. One end flares out at ~45 deg., other end heavily curves to 90 deg. in opposite direction of 45 deg. flare. The key to success w/this tool is the curvature providing excellent torque/rotation through a smaller distance than anything straight. I placed the 45 deg end in a notch on the right side of drive belt tensioner (mounted to the engine block and attached to #7. Applied downward force on crowbar until 90 deg. end barely made contact w/generator. I was then able to hold in position w/one hand and slip remaining belt on pulley #4. Belt placement took 5 minutes!!
4) Final note: #7 along w/attached part (not sure what this is called: spring loaded idler pulley?) to engine block is a self-adjusting tensioner. It naturally wants to rotate toward firewall so rotating it toward the front of the car releases tension and when released automatically tightens belt aligning markings on �spring loaded idler pulley�. I originally tried to use #7 as others suggested, but I found the work space too tight. I also slid an extension pipe over the 15mm wrench to increase torque, but the pipe I used was too long such that when I relieved belt tension the pipe prevented easy access to the belt on #4 as the two pulleys are aligned.
Oh thank you. I had success using the crowbar technique. I had to replace the idler pulley (item #4) on my 1996 Windstar as the old one lost all its bearings and was sparking. The replacement was plastic and not rounded making it difficult to slide the belt on. I almost ran to a different parts store to shop for an identical replacement. 60 seconds to replace the pulley. 60 minutes or more fighting to get the belt on. What finally did it for me was the crowbar. I found that pushing the crow bar down past the alternater, it put pressure on the belt. I had to start with the crow bar through the belt, into the notch of the tensioner. It was a tight fit, but when I cranked the crow bar down, the last time (of course the 30 times before it wasn't just right), the belt slid on. Good luck to the next person who reads this. Hope this helped, or at least encourages you, even more.
How do you replace tie rods on a Windstar?
Procedures:
OUTER TIE ROD END- Remove front wheel
- Remove the outer tie rod fastening nut cotter pin - if it won't come out, cut it off close to the nut
- Remove the castle nut from the tie rod end (at the steering knuckle)
- Separate tie rod end from the steering knuckle
NOTE: Pickle fork versus a Pitman Arm Puller - pickle forks will likely destroy the grease boot on the outer tie rod! Pitman arm pullers are an excellent alternative and will not break the rubber
- use two wrenches: 1 to hold the tie rod end nut the other to unscrew the tie rod end (outer tie rod).
Count the number of threads when unscrewing the end from the inner. When reassembling, you'll want the tie rod end screwed onto the new inner exactly the same number of threads to *mostly* preserve the alignment.
INNER TIE ROD - IF equipped - there is a rubber boot on the controller arm end of the inner tie rod held on with a special type of metal clamp. Remove it and the boot.
TIP: these boot clamps are a real bear to get at and usually end up being cut. I have used a simple nylon zip-tie as a replacement for the clamp - a whole lot easier to put on.
- Remove inner tie rod - use the tool you rented, or possibly just a a wrench on the connecting nut will work
- Install new inner tie rod and boot
- Screw the outer tie rod onto the new inner rod, the same number of turns as on the old one.
If you are off by several turns you may not notice much (pulling to one side) but it will effect your tires, so I do recommend a front wheel alignment after a tie rod replacement.
- Reattach tie rod end to steering knuckle - bolt and cotter pin
Torque 35-46 ft lb
I will assume outers?
Easiest way is to lift front of van, remove front tires. You will see a nut on the spindle/knuckle end of the tie rod. Remove the cotter pins with a pair of sidecutters and undo the nut. If you can't get it out cut the ends off the cotter pin as close to the nut as possible are turn the nut with a socket (preferably) until it breaks the pin off (neither piece will be reused). At the inner end of the outer tie rod there will be a lock nut which is located on the outer end of the inner tie rod that threads into the outer tie rod. (enough inners & outers??? lol). Break loose the nut 1/4 turn or less (you will use this to mark how far to thread the new outer tie rods on) and the outers should be loose on the inner tie rods. Go back to the outer ends at the knuckle where you earlier removed the cotter pins & nuts and you can use a fork (front end tool) to separate the end. If you don't have a fork, a sharp blow with a hammer on the side of the spindle/knuckle where the tie rod end goes through will usually loosen it. Unthread the tie rod ends, lube the threaded outer end of the inner tie rod and thread on new outer tie rods down to the the lock nuts on the inners without turning the inners ( can use small pipe wrenches on vise grips in a pinch). Install the outer tie rod ends into the spindle holes, tighten and don't forget the cotter pin. Tighten the lock nut that 1/4 or less turn you undid at the beginning and you should be done. GET AN ALIGNMENT!! as you will be quite lucky if the steering wheel stays straight and the tires don't wear out quickly.
loosen lock nut on tie rod, just connect outer tie rod from spindle remove outer tie rod measure from lock nut to end of inner tie rod so on the new one you could put the lock nut back in the same spot, remove rubber boot over inner tie rod, you now need a special tie rod socket to remove inner tie rod or a crow foot and a long extension turn the steering wheel so the shaft on rack and pinion is sticking out so you could work on it remove inner tie rod installer in opposite order don't forget to put the new lock pin on new inner tie rod and alignment done so the toe setting is right if off you could wear you tires out
May be the oil sending unit in the oil pan. 97? it could be external. Yes, it is the oil pressure sending unit. Easy and inexpensive part to get fixed.
I had the same problem on my '97 Stratus with the 2.5l V-6. I replaced the oil pressure switch ($16 from NAPA), cleaned up the connector to the switch and the problem was solved. The switch is located just above the oil filter and you'll have to remove the filter to get to it. On a 4 cylinder it is on the rear of the block, to the left of center.
The injector gets full time positive power from the ignition key on circuit. The PCM pulses the ground. You could have a short to ground on the injector pulse circuit, or the most likely thing is the injector driver in the PCM is bad. If you have the fuel rail unbolted and pulled up where you can see the injectors, as I expect you probably do, disconnect the PCM, and turn the key on. If the injector does not spray out, then the PCM is the issue. if the injector sprays with the PCM detached,then there may be a short to ground in the wire harness.
What do you do if you cant remove radio from 2003 Ford windstar using din tools?
From Elliott Wolin who ran into a similar problem:
... the radio was stuck; the removal tool did not work on the left side. The problem was that the internal metal locking tabs on the left side of the radio partially broke. I had to remove the panels below the steering column and reach in and depress what was left of the locking tab mechanism from the left side with a shorty flat-head screwdriver. Then I inserted a thin rod into the hole in the front of the radio to keep the depressed tab in place, first the top one, then the bottom. This was not particularly easy.
What does the light next to the you and exclamation point light mean in a 2001 ford windstar?
You can view the 2001 Ford Windstar owners manual online at :
www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces )
Click on Owner Guides
The manual shows pictures of the warning lights and explains what they mean
( I think you mean the LOW tire pressure warning light )
What is involved in replacing front bearings in a 2000 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4x4?
in replacing the front bearings you need to replace the entire hub assembly. approx $300 remove the brake calaiper and mount, and the rotor. Remove the star screws holing the hub in place and remove the hub. *the hub may need to be persuaded with a hammer* Mine certainly did. be careful not to damage the 4x4 actuator wire. Replace the new hub over the groved axle and put everything back together. good luck
Where is the relay or fuse located for the tail lights on a 1999 Cadillac Seville SLS?
fuse bock under the rear seat.
How do you test a fuel sending unit?
Here is some info on how to test a fuel sending unit: https://www.fillingstation.com/articles/fuelgaugetesting.htm
Here is a video of the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HJkuEH2aqMU
How do I find a Vacuumn leak on 99 Ford windstar?
Check all vacuum hoses and fittings
9 year old vehicle may be wise to replace all hoses one at a time You can get a vacuum pump to test vacuum operated motors under dash
What is wrong if your heater fan blows air but you get no heat in your 2001 Ford Windstar?
See "Related Questions" below for a complete discussion on possible causes and more importantly: fixes
How to dismantal Windstar interior?
To get you started with the dismantling, refer to the "Related Questions" below regarding removing door panels
Window in van keeps coming out of track on 2000 ford windstar?
Sounds like a problem with the regulator - alignment, looseness, etc.
See "Related Questions" below for more - although the question is about replacing the motor and regulator, it'll get you into the neighborhood for a first-hand inspection.
- 1 can be addressed by sometimes tapping on the air flow box (little black box on top of the assembly - off of the air filter) and seeing if that loosens the dirt. If not, you need to get a special fit hex-star bit to unscrew the box and open it up.
- 3 is the most expensive, as oxygen sensors cost approx. $70 apiece to replace. If you're going to do one, might as well do both. This should be your last resort though. (Find out exactly which codes you get before investing the money into oxygen sensors.)
- 4 air flow assemblies cost about $85 and are relatively easy to put on.
Best,
Dave
***remove and clean your MAF sensor. $0.00 problem fixed
best,
don
What could cause a popping - grinding noise when turning a Windstar?
Possible causes of popping/grinding noises when turning:
- Wheel bearings
- CV joint / axle
- Brakes
What is a grinding noise coming from the right front of a 1998 Ford Windstar?
Possibly wheel bearing, brakes, CV joints. These vehicles are noted for creeking tie rod ends. Greasable replacements are available. Another possibility: I replaced perfectly good brake pads on my 2001 only to find the grinding was still there! :( The true cause: bad rotors! I did not bother with a resurfacing to see if that would resolve it - just did replacements.
How do you check - test the fuel pump in a Ford Windstar?
a special valve on the fuel rail allows you to test for pressure on the fuel system. if there is pressure you will have to determine weather or not there is correct amount of pressure for the engine to run properly.
The easiest initial test is to determine if you hear / feel it run when the key is turned to the RUN position.
Note: You may want to climb into the back seat to get closer, or even reach under the car to the general area - and have some one turn the key to run and see if you feel it run for 4-6 seconds.
Another test is to put a pressure gauge on the schrader(?) valve on the fuel line on the top of the engine - it should read somewhere in the 30+ ft lbs range, not running.
Note #2: the pink w/ black stripe wire is the power to the pump (sounds like a political slogan).
Note #3: just to say you did it, doublecheck the emergency fuel shutoff switch back in the right corner of the trunk/"way back" of a wagon. The button should be in the down position.
Note #4: good to check the fuses too.
AnswerI would guess try replacing fuel pump, But before you do , spend 20.00 bucks on a Haynes manual at your local Auto Zone or Advanced Auto and do a little multi-meter work before buying the wrong part. Everything is electronic so you never know. I had an older Ford Tempo once and the fuel pump did the same thing then eventually went out and had to replace. Hope this helps!!Added by CamaroLuver: Kudos on the mutimeter advice! Better than going out and buying a bunch of parts, and doing the guess work. It COULD be the fuel pump then again could not. Just because you replaced the relay doesn't mean it's working right. Touch the fuel pump relay when you don't hear your pump come on, have a friend turn your car on (not crank) and see if you feel the relay click over. If not then you aren't getting power to your relay. Then it's a different problem entirely. Wiring, a ground, possibly computer problem, do alot of testing before you go out and buy parts. Also test if you have spark before you rule out to be a fuel delivery problem (which I'm guessing it is) I learned that the hard way. Had the exact same symptoms, bought a new relay, went through 3 pumps before we realized it wasn't either one, got a new ignition coil and switch, ECM, fuel injectors. Turned out to be some bad wiring and a fusible link. Electrical problems are the greatest!!! :-p *sarcasm*
See "Related Questions" below for more detail on many of these tests or checkpoints...
Hope it is as simple as the emergency fuel pump shut off / inertia switch tripped itself.
Find it in the back right corner where the tire jack is stored.
There are good instructions and illustrations in the Owners Manual on this, and how it operates.
Otherwise, check the fuse/relay.
See "Related Questions" below for more
How do you change the head light bulb on 2001 windstar?
The following applies to 1999 - 2003 Windstars. Chances are these steps also apply to the Freestar and Mercury Monterey.
The entire headlamp housing assembly sits inside of a mounting bracket - this means it is very easy to fully release, and remove the headlamp to make bulb replacement much less *painful*!
There are 2 headlight retainer clips to find - they are:
- black, upside-down L-shaped metal clips about 1/2 inch wide
- located just behind the top edge of the headlamp glass, inside the engine compartment.
Release by pulling the top towards you while pulling the clips upward. The headlamp assembly will now pull forward providing great access to the electrical connector and bulb retainer ring.
Once you've pulled the entire headlight assembly outwards toward yourself, there is a small clip molded into the plug that has to clear the corresponding tab on the bulb assembly itself. You can pull it up SLIGHTLY while you pull the connector straight back (away from you) to remove the cable. Do not break the plastic clip - you only need to raise it about 1/16th inch to clear the tab.
With the cable unplugged, look at the back of the bulb assembly. You will see a small ring with three raised "ears". Rotate this counterclockwise about 120 degrees, and the 3 small square tabs under the ring can slip through the ring itself. Remove the ring.
The bulb assembly is now exposed. Pull it straight back (away from you) to remove it. It has a rubber ring on the new bulb to seal the entire assembly from water. Do NOT remove the large rubber ring that goes around the retainer ring that you removed in the previous step.
With the old bulb assembly removed, open the package for the new bulb. CAUTION: Do NOT touch the bulb itself. Fingertip oil, even very slight, can cause the bulb to fail very quickly. Holding the new bulb by the base, you will see 3 small detents (two of them rather close together, and the other on the opposite side of the base). Line these up with the corresponding marks on the headlight bezel assembly, and then push the bulb assembly gently into place. Once inserted, take the ring from the step above, slide it over the back of the bulb assembly and ensuring that the 3 square black tabs go through the square holes in the ring. Then, twist the ring clockwise about 120 degrees, using the "ears", until the ring is fully engaged. Check that you the square tabs are on the outside of the ring (it's easy to miss one, so that only two of the tabs are engaged - this can result in the bulb being loose).
Once locked in place with the ring, reattach the cable (the "D" shape of the plug matches the back of the bulb assembly), and press it into place until the small plastic clip goes up and over the tab on the bulb base, locking the cable in place.
Push the headlight bezel assembly back into place, push the "L" shaped metal tabs back into place (straight down, until they click), and test the light.
NOTE: This procedure is detailed & illustrated in the Owner's Manual that came with the car, approximately page 246.
How do you empty the fuel tank on your 2000 Ford Windstar LX?
Not surprisingly, there is no drain plug - so you'll be using something like a siphon hose.
There is one other alternative: drive it until it's empty - that what my wife does...
Why is it called a charlie bar to secure a sliding glass door?
It’s a Charley bar, which is a brand, I think.
Where is the location of the multi-function switch on a 1997 thunder bird steering column?
I am assuming the "multi-function" switch is the TURN SIGNAL/HI-LO BEAM/WIPER CONTROL SWITCH. It is located on the left side of the steering column.
