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Geo Metro
The Geo Metro was a small economy car produced between 1989 and 2001. The first generation model was available as 3-door and 5-door hatchback, as well as 4-door notchback sedan. It came in three trim levels: XFi, Base and LSi.
1,033 Questions
Can you put a V6 in a 93' Geo Tracker 4WD How?
I would like to do the same thing on a 1990 Tracker but have not found anyone that makes adaptor plates for the tranny. There is a place that makes adaptor plates so you can install a Volkswagon 4 cyl. turbo diesel. To expensive for me but if your interested go to acmeadaptors.com and take a look.
Whats the fuel pressure on 1991 Geo metro 1.0 liter?
With the engine off then turning it on, it should be between 23 to 31 psi. With the engine running, it should be 13 to 20 psi.
Have you fixed this yet? The fix is cheap and easy. Let me know if you haven't yet. Mr Geo Metro leehduncan@verizon.net
Where do you fill the manual transmission for a 1992 Geo Metro?
On a Metro trans there is a plug on the trans case right side faceing engine that is a hex head or square 3/8 hole for ratchet handle. Have seen both. Remove plug and insert flexable trans fill funnel in hole. Fill until it runs out. You can stick your finger in hole to check level. Its a good idea to change it as book recomends. Drain plug at botton of Transmission case. Refill with recommended weight and amount. (or until it runs out of opening.) Bob
How do you reset a metro pcs android?
you go to the android settings and it will tell you if you want to reset or delete
At what time of the day should your headlight be turned on?
* half an hour before sunrise * half an hour after sunset
Where is the horn relay in 1996 Geo Tracker?
The horn relay in 1996 Geo Tracker is located under the left hand side of the instrument panel attached to the CEM. Two green wires connect the power from the fuse to the relay, a blue/green wire connects to the horn and a green/black wire carries power to the horn.
Inside door panel: remove little plastic plugs in the door pull handle exposing the Phillips screws, then remove the two metal screws in the metal looking oval cup on door panel. Take a cloth like a dish rag & slide the edge of cloth between the window crank handle & the plastic round bezal & pull the rag up & down till the rag catches the retaining C clip holding the handle onto the splined shaft.then just pull handle off. (to replace put the C clip on the window handle shaft & just push handle back on) If you pull open the little door opener handle you will see that the bezal is actually two pieces and on the lower center there is a slot for a screwdriver where you can separate the two pieces there is a metal retaining clip there & one on top. Next pry between the lower door frame & door panel to release the plastic holding retainers also along the sides of door panel. The plastic moulding along the top of door just lifts up to remove its still attached to the door panel as one unit.
Do not belive so. Most flywheels that have to be in a certain place will only bolt on that way. The bolt holes will be offset just enough that it will only bolt on in one place.
How do you repair broken 89 Geo Metro lifter?
no fix for lifter.... must be replaced... remove valve cover, remove rocker arm assembly replace bad lifters.... put it all back together
How do you replace the transmission in a Geo Metro?
Replacing the transmission can be difficult if you're inexperienced or lacking the proper tools. I recently replaced my own on a '97 3 cylinder 5 speed. Mind you, this quick guide will explain how to remove a manual transmission.
Make sure you are working on a clean, concrete surface since you will be lying directly on your back with no room for a creeper. The first thing you need to do is jack up the driver side front until the tire is at least 4" off the ground and place a jack-stand securely under the frame. Shake the car a little to assure that it's being held up securely as you don't want it falling on you.
Start off under the hood and:
- Remove battery (2 10MM nuts)
- Remove battery tray (3 14MM bolts)
- Remove the speedometer cable (remove clip and pull)
- Remove clutch cable (14MM nut)
- Remove clutch cable bracket (2 12MM bolts)
- Unplug reverse light connector
- Remove ground cable and clean it (14MM bolt)
Next thing is to get to the axle shaft removed.
- Drain the transmission (3/8 ratchet)
- Remove the LF tire (4 19MM)
- Remove the brake caliper and pads (12 MM)
- Remove the axle nut with a impact wrench (1 1/4 nut)
- Push in axle shaft to see if it's free
Remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt (14 MM bolt). Use a chisel to spread the pinch area and pound down on the control area to separate. Pull the complete knuckle outwards and push axle through until free. Use a prybar and pop out the axle shaft and set aside.
Now it is time to get under the car and here is where all the fun starts. First thing is to place a floor jack with a block of wood under the oil pan to support the engine. If you are lucky enough to have an engine sling, then use it. Jack the engine/trans assembly up slightly to take tension off the mounts.
Directly behind the trans under the car, you will find the shift rod linkage and the brace. These may look like ordinary bolts and nuts, but I found they can actually be fairly tricky. These are actually pins going through a bushing and if they are seized up, use lots of penetrating oil (PB Blaster) and strike the housing part (eye) many times with a hammer to break up the rust. The shift rod link is a double joint and you can take it off from either location. Heat is not recommended and don't try whacking the threaded side with a hammer unless you have a nut on it flush.
Now it's time to remove the actual transmission.
Get back under the shift linkage and directly above it, you will see the rear mount from the firewall to the trans.
- Remove the 2 lower nuts from mount (2 14MM)
- Remove the bushing bolt and nut and remove that bracket piece (14 MM)
- Remove the trans mount bolts and remove from trans (3 14MM)
- Use the floor jack holding engine to help you.
- While there, remove the one bell housing nut below starter (14 MM nut)
- Get out of there and remove the rear brace where battery was (3 14MM bolts)
Before removing the rest, look on the steel coolant tube and remove the bolt going to the trans case. It's easy to miss this and you don't want to break that tube.
- Under the car: remove bell housing flywheel plate (2 10 MM bolts)
- From the top of the car: remove the starter (2 12 MM bolts)
- Make sure you removed the bell housing nut under starter on earlier step (14 MM)
- Remove 3 remaining bell housing bolts (3 14 MM)
Lean over the car and grab the trans and begin carefully wiggling it loose from the engine. Use a pry-bar to help pry away from block. Stop part way out and go back under the car and pop the other (right) axle shaft. Finish yanking and carefully set it on the ground or get help from someone if you are not all that strong (like me). The transmission (depending on what kind) weighs about 60 - 70 lbs.
Now in step #1 I mentioned jacking the car so the tire is at least 4" off the ground. If you didn't, the trans won't clear and you will have the engine on a piece of wood and be attempting to raise the car. It'll be difficult.
Getting the new one back in is essentially the same thing, in reverse. Make sure your clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, flywheel, etc are lined up properly (most clutch kits come with an alignment tool, if you're going to be replacing that as well). If they aren't, you'll never get the splines to line up properly and transmission won't slide on. The hardest part of the job (for me anyway) is getting the that spline aligned. Once you have it lined up correctly, the trans should slide on like butter.
Get the transmission back in and make sure you still have something helping to support it and the engine's weight. Start bolting the mounts back on, hook up the shift linkage, the starter, axles, etc. Getting the clutch cable back on properly can sometimes be a pain too. When you get to that part, get inside the car and look at your clutch petal. Underneath (and behind) the petal, there's a hook, which you'll have to feel for, that the clutch cable loops over. Make sure the cable is attached. You may need someone to hold it in place while you bolt the cable back onto the transmission as you'll be pulling it towards you. The clutch can easily be adjusted by tightening (or loosening) the nut at the end of the cable (the one facing the radiator). If you have an automatic transmission, this won't be a problem.
Don't forgot the fill up your fluids again! You may have opted to drain the radiator too depending on what else you might have removed for easier access to the transmission. Top off your coolant and transmission fluid. The trans should take about 2 and a half quarts. Penzoil or GM Synchromesh are preferred.
Pop your tires back on, hook the battery back up and you should be good to go!
How many cylinders does a 92 Geo Metro have?
Either 3 or 4 depending on which motor you have. Count your spark plug wires then you'll know.
What is the torque compression spec's for 1994 Geo Metro engine exhaust and flywheel?
Replacing engine and need information.
Where is the PCV valve located on a 94 Geo Metro located?
Under hood, center, upper engine area, front of carburetor, mounted in intake manifold
What is a Chevrolet Metro Hatchback worth in 2009?
Is it really a Chevy first off? And what year was it made? 4 cylinder would be worth more then 3 cylinder unless you really push the mpg bug. Stick-shift is also worth more if you push that, but otherwise most people only want an automatic.
If it's in good shape and has no problems it should easily take $1600.
I own a 1995 Geo Metro lsi, 4 cylinder, 3 speed automatic. I would sell mine for $2200 because mine has nearly everything replaced and it's recently had a tune-up, all the rust has been patch up, and I threw new speakers in to boot.
What type of oil does a 1991 Geo Metro need?
Whatever brand you prefer. Just make sure it's a good brand 5w-30 weight. Here is more input: * 5W30 oil in your choice of brands will work just fine. * Regular 5w30 in cold climate. Use synthetic oil. Works wonders. * 10w40 or 10w30, Chilton book warns against using synthetic oil saying it causes leakage in the motor. It recommends 10w30 as an all around oil.
What is the torque specification for the head volts on a 1993 Geo Metro?
its standard from sprints to geo metros all years (1.0L engines), cylinder head-to- block bolts is 54 ft.lbs.,,, 73nm as listed in the chilton's book #28700 from your local auto parts store.
BLACK WIRES=HEATER CIRCUIT
WHITE WIRE=SENSOR GROUND
BLUE WIRE=SENSOR PLUS
VOLVOKAHUNA.COM
The Geo Metro holds a small volume of oil (4.5 qts) and suffers when down a quart. So maintain oil level is the first solution with some timing adjustment. As well, Increased valve chatter with age is normal, but the in the example of 1.3L 4 cylinder the hydraulic rocker arms (valve lifter, and valve lash adjuster((partsdinousaur.com cheap by experience))) the rollers may break.
The roller of the rocker arm is held by a shear pin that may fail. Remove the valve cover (careful not to over-torque when reinstalling((4ft*lbs)), it will break cover!) and the Spark plugs (compression) and rotate the crank shaft the camshaft will rotate with the crank giving play to the rockers. Being careful not to damage the polish surface you can check that the rollers move freely.
(((( Or ))))
For easier inspection, you can remove the valve cover (careful not to over-torque when reinstalling((4ft*lbs)), it will break cover!) Then unbolt the "Rocker hold down bars" (Two, exhaust and Intake 5 bolts each 25 ft*lbs) and inspect the rollers but finesse is required in reinstalling with weak springs and washers that can fly off in different directions
Also inspect the hydraulic lifters (valve lash adjuster, kind of like a bullet) in the end of the rocker do see if it is dead and does not hold oil with resistance. these can be checked in place and pulled out with pliers (warning may destroy) ((the lash adjuster is a valve with a ball bearing on a spring with a can on the other end that always bleeds pressure. at higher rpm and oil pressure the can is held firmer and further open thereby opening the valves further. if replace remember to prime with oil))
(((Secondly)))
The Piston skirt shattering will cause a "valve chatter noise".
To inspect drain oil, remove oil pan take care with crank position sensor bolt and torques (aluminum plus steel bolts equals stripped threads) . with flash light check piston skirts from underneath. inspect oil pans for the piston rings (unmistakeable) If broken, the piston can be replaced with more difficulty, but if you took off the oil pan it is not impossible. a gently used 88mm piston suzuki 13BBA can be found in a junk yard for fifteen bucks (done on two separate occasions and have two spares) and a imperfect installation without honing and crosshatch surfacing can be accomplished to get you back on the road with little detriment.
And If into perfection a new oil pump to pick-up oil pressure and make the lash adjusters solid to minimize the gap may do the trick.
AND remember to verify your torque specs (Haynes Manual or Chilton)
How do you change a fuel pump in a 1991 Geo Metro?
Assuming it's not in the gas tank, most fuel pumps are very easy to change. They are usually mounted to the engine block with 2 or 3 bolts. You just find the fuel line coming up from the fuel tank. Follow the line until you see where it reaches the fuel pump. You diconnect the fuel line going in and out of the pump. You remove the bolts with a ratchet. You add the gasket that came with your new fuel pump before installing the new pump. You hook the fuel lines back up. Make sure the surfaces are clean when installing the gasket. If you have to, remove debris with a putty knife or razor.
Can the 96 Geo Metro 1.3 l bolt into the 95?
yes, however the pcm for the '96 expects signals from 2 O2 sensors. unless you replace the computer too, it should not be a problem
Where do you put the brake fluid on a Geo Metro 1997?
Master cylinder, located, driver's side, firewall. This information can be found in your owner's manual. If you do not have one, then I suggest you get one. You need an owner's manual to know what items to service and when, and for specifications. You can order one from a dealer, find one at a salvage yard, ebay, or one of these sites: http://www.carownermanual.com/ http://vehicleownersmanual.com/ http://www.vintage-books.com/owncat.htm Brake fluid levels decrease as wear on the brakes increases. Simply adding brake fluid to a reservoir may not be all that needs attention. Be sure to have your brake linings checked (pads and/or shoes, depending on model) before they wear to the point of either failing of damaging the rotors/drums.
