Geo Metro

1.3 and 1.6 liter don't have one 1.8 liter is at the back top see picture at this site It's a wonder he could even figure out how to turn the computer on. Please don't answer questions if you don't know what the hell you are talking about. Geo Metros did not come with a 1.6 OR 1.8 liter engine. For both the 1.0 and 1.3L, the camshaft timing belt tensioner pulley is located inside the timing belt cover, attached to the water pump in the center front of the motor. The air conditioner belt tensioner is under the air conditioner compressor between the compressor and the block.

Trouble code P1510 means: Back-Up Power Supply

look at your belts. the pully between your motor and the altenator. This is your water pump pully. The back end of the unit should be attached to your motor block.

Refer to the other post, 1991 to 1994 metro are the same.

it is shorted out and needs replacement

yes you can! just ask any metro pcs sales person and they will kindly complete the transaction for you!

Approx the life of the car-- 100,000 miles or more. Ways to speed its demise are buying gasoline containing alcohol-- then letting it sit for several months or more. Another way (if it is an electric pump on a fuel injection car) is running low on fuel-- below 1/8 tank is not a good idea.

there is a plug on the side of the transmission towards the drivers side of the car,a 3/8 ratchet will fit into the plug, the drain plug and fill plug are different,the drain plus has a magnet in the middle of it. it will hold just under three quarts of gear oil,i would only use synthetic to protect the transmission

Does it have an ignition control module? That may be the cause. Or possibly a MAP sensor or a Crank position sensor or Cam position sensor. Check those first.

yes and the transmission too is recomended..... These trans are not so reliable and if there's lower miles on the 2000 you should swap out the entire rig

Remove the wheel and brake calipers. Be careful not to let the caliper hang by the brake line. Use a hanger to hold it up and out of the way.
On the rotors the are screws close to the center of the rotor, remove these screws and the rotor just slides off. The screws can be tough, dont strip the heads, use the appropiate size screw driver and tap a few times with a hammer, that may help loosen it. I didnt put the screws back in after replacing the rotor, I believe that is a optional choice.

you must remove the entire rocker arm assembly... inside each rocker is a little button lifter. that's the ones to be replaced... To set the entire rocker assembly back in place, you will need 4-5 hands to squeeze the springs and position the rockers over the valves

There really is no incentive for the automotive companies to either design or produce high mpg vehicles. Even though there are government mandates for mileage on U.S. cars, this is a misnomer. The law more or less states a manufacturer must meet mileage standards as an average of all cars produced. And, there are plenty of ways to maximize the driving tests for a vehicle, many of questionable/ethical and borderline legal. Also, often the government allows the auto manufacturer to perform their own testing and simply accepts the data, with little to absolutely no oversight.

Also, vehicles that get high mpg also tend to be smaller, lower cost vehicles, such as the Metro, that have very little profit margin when selling. As an example, from an automotive engineer I inquired to regarding this very topic, the automotive company makes about $4000 profit in the sale of a full size pickup, but only $600 on a small Metro type vehicle. They produce them only to meet the government standard mentioned above, not for real profit making.

Even though the $140+ price per barrel oil costs of 2008 are over for now at least, the three decades of producing low mpg vehicles and marketing heavily to the American consumer to buy and buy into the full size pickup and SUV vehicles concept, this is ultimately short sited ideology. Without innovation and design pushing towards more efficient vehicles and more realistic vehicle usage, the consumption of oil and gas continues to prove to be a weakness to the U.S. economy and safety. Cases in point, there is no need to have an SUV to drive in cities and suburbs, to and from work or running errands on paved and maintained roads. And somehow, not many years ago, we somehow managed to pack a family of five into a mid-size vehicle, and be able to drive about our daily lives without all being killed because we didn't have eight tons of steel surrounding us, contrary to what marketing has spent so many years convincing us otherwise.

Disclaimer: I do not belong to any environmental groups, have never chained myself to a tree, or held a protest sign outside a power plant. I do, however, recycle my paper/plastics/metal in my home, and drive a Metro with 150,000+ miles on it, still getting 40+ mpg.

I have found that new rotors are in need of turnig even though they are NEW. They tend to have not been machined with tight tolerances because they are mass produced. You may not feel anything in the break pedal but,

if you do you have to take them off and do all that work AGAIN.

most probably because of low compression and the cylinders load up with fuel or your pressure regulator is pooched

Yes it is. Any Metro transmission made after the year 1994 will fit in your 98 Metro.

There are many factors and way to increase the MPG in your Metro. Tire pressure, timing, spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter. I also found this place to be very helpful http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?t=17057

The type of oil that should be put into a 1995 Geo Metro is 5 W 30. The car uses approximately 5 quarts of oil.

so the head wont warp

Just disconet the negative cable from the battery or use a code reader. You can get it in discount autoparts for $80 more or less.

black plastic switch you pull

Also, when it does finally shift the speed is anywhere between 35-45

Yes, in fact it does. It is a hall-effect sensor which consists of a reluctor wheel and a pick-up coil inside the distributor. The ECM uses this sensor to decide when and how much to open the injector and also to adjusting timing/dwell electronically. -MechanicMatt

Yes

depending on how 'bad' it is, it would cause your car not to start.... otherwise you would have an intermettinet miss and wouldn't always be the same cylinder. with a multimeter you can check the condition of the distributor.... If it is an intermittent no start condition.... I would look at the fuel pressure and the injector.