Geo Metro

This requires a timing light

You're supposed to put a jumper wire between the ground terminal and the test switch terminal of the diagnostic connector plug before adjusting the timing. The connector plug is on the firewall under the hood, next to the coil. If you look at the socket straight on with the plastic catch on the left, ground is the lower right hole, test switch is right above it. Then hook up the timing light.

The distributor is held in place by two bolts in adjustment slots. Rotate the distributor clockwise to retard timing, counterclockwise to advance timing.

Usually have to drop the fuel tank unless there is an access hole in the trunk area to service it

You replace it you do not fix it.

im assuming your looking for hot wires on the coil. They should be two wires of the coil

This is the code showing that the computer is working normally. There are no trouble codes when a code of 12 is blinking.

If you're wanting to set the timing on your car, there's a notch in the pulley on the harmonic balancer and a timing tab on the timing cover. Check your label under the hood for the proper setting. If you're replacing the timing belt, you must have #1 cylinder at top dead position on the compression stroke. You have a timing mark on the cam sprocket that must line up with the v notch on the cam seal cover. Your lower sprocket has a mark that must line up with the mark on the front cover. Buy a Haynes repair manual. They have excellent pictures of these marks and how they must line up.

Start the engine and make sure it's up to normal operating temp. Make sure everything is turned off(radio, a/c, fan blower, rear defrost etc.) If your distributor has a vacum hose, disconnect it and plug the filter. Hook up your timing light and check your marks. If the timing is off, you'll need to loosen the distributor hold down bolts and turn the distributor clockwise to advance it or counter clockwise to retard it. Once you get it set, tighten the bolts and re-check it. Reconnect your vacuum line and drive on. If you can't get the timing set, you need to look for vacuum leaks somewhere on the intake. I don't know the spec on that car, but it should be on a label under the hood.

if the bad blinker is the small, rectangular one in the gray bumper, all you need to do is get a Phillip's head screwdriver, remove both screws from the front blinker, remove the orange plastic cover, and then the bulb actually pops out itself with a quick wiggle. easy as pie, and the replacement bulb is quite cheap as well.

Rule of thumb is 90 foot pounds on passenger cars

Every three months or every 3,000 miles.

Probably the same reason mine did. It's worn out. The teeth are worn at an angle. It probably kicked itself out of gear for a while and then totally stopped working right? The fifth gear is used 70 percent of the time. Sad thing is, it's nearly impossible to find a replacement.

yes, remove the driver side tire, then unbolt the tranny from the morot and pull it out the bottom. (best way without taking the motor out.)

THE EGR VALVE IS LOCATED ON THE DRIVERS SIDE OF THE INTAKE AT THE CORNER WHERE THE INTAKE AND HEAD BOLT TOGETHER, THERE ARE 2 10 MM BOLTS HOLDING IT ON, I JUST PULLED MINE OFF 2 HOURS AGO AND ALL THE PORTS WERE PLUGGED SHUT FROM SOOT, CLEANED THEM OUT WITH DRILL BITS(IF YOUR MECHANICALLY INCLINED), THEN CHECKED TO MAKE SURE THE VACUUM DIAPHRAGM OPERATED SHAFT WAS WORKING AND FREE. JOHN

If white smoke smells like anti-freeze, it is more than likely a head gasket.

First you have to disconnect the power from the battery. Then you remove the belt,and all electrical connections. Then you take out the bolts holding it on the brackets and bring it out from under the car. - Disconnect Battery

- Remove Air filter intake components.

- Remove fuel hose to carb (maybe)

- Remove 12mm upper alternator mount bolt

- Dissconnect 10mm Alternator positive connection.

- Dissconnect Alternator connector plug.

- Remove 2*12mm lower alternator mount bolts.

- Remove 2*10mm lower alternator shield bolts.

- Remove 2*14mm exhaust pipe to manifold bolts.

-Wiggle the old alternator out and the new in...trust, it works

IF YOU INTENDED TO REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR BELT...

- Slacken the underside 10mm main belt tension pulley to allow alternator belt R&R.

No bolts, just twist the bulb assembly counter-clocwise and it should come out. Since the bulb has been there for a while it may be difficult to break loose from the headlight reflector assembly.

in my '95 Geo Metro LSi hatchback, it's the red O-shaped piece just a few inches to the left of my battery (located on the far right under the hood); the yellow one that's identical in every way, is, i believe, the transmission fluid/oil dipstick. hope this helps!

transmission goes into gear but wont hardly move

hold the lock key on top of the phone

It depends on the year and wheel configuration of your metro. Most metros have a 4 lug 12 inch wheel design whereas the Prizm has a 4 lug 13 - 14 inch wheel base. They may fit on a Geo Metro Convertible or any Geo Metro made after 1995 because after 95 the metro had 13 inch wheels. I would check by direct comparison first.

Yes, definately. The engine compartment from 89 to 97 I believe can accommodate any of the engines used in any of the models within that year.

I have read some engine swap details available with online page http://www.hiperformer.com/engine_basics/engine_repair.html, where you can look for some help about your engine swap problem.

You can also find here expert blog about engine parts repairing and rebuilding methods.

12(noon)-5pm :)

1997. thank god. or 2002 if u are in japan. but were stopped being made due to stafty reason