Geo Metro

To replace the starter on a 1992 Geo Metro, first disconnect the negative battery terminal to ensure safety. Then, locate the starter, which is typically mounted on the engine near the transmission. Remove the electrical connections and the mounting bolts securing the starter in place. Finally, install the new starter by reversing the process, reconnect the battery, and test the starter to ensure proper operation.

The 1993 Geo Metro with a 1.0-liter engine typically uses about 1.5 to 2.0 pounds of R-134a refrigerant for its air conditioning system. It's important to check the specific vehicle's service manual or consult a professional for the exact amount, as overcharging can lead to system damage. Always ensure the system is evacuated and recharged correctly for optimal performance.

For a 1992 Geo Metro, the recommended oil viscosity is typically 10W-30. However, in colder climates, 5W-30 can also be used for better cold-start performance. Always check your owner’s manual for specific recommendations based on your driving conditions.

The engine of a 1996 Geo Metro weighs approximately 150 to 200 pounds, depending on the specific engine type and configuration. The Metro typically came with a 1.0L or 1.3L four-cylinder engine. This weight is relatively light compared to many other engines, reflecting the Metro's design as an economical and fuel-efficient vehicle.

Oh honey, you're better off finding a needle in a haystack. But if you're feeling lucky, try googling "Geo Metro engine diagram" and see if someone out there has mercy on your poor soul. Good luck, you'll need it!

A 1990 Geo Metro should typically produce between 13.5 to 14.5 volts with the headlights on when the engine is running. This voltage range indicates that the alternator is functioning properly and charging the battery effectively. If the voltage drops significantly below this range, it may indicate an issue with the charging system or battery. Always use a multimeter to check the voltage accurately.

A PTC relay, also known as a positive temperature coefficient relay, is a type of protective device used in refrigerators and air conditioners to protect the compressor from overheating. It uses a thermistor that increases its resistance with temperature, helping to regulate the current flowing to the compressor and prevent damage.

The Southern Ocean, surrounding Antarctica, contains a large number of icebergs due to the region's vast ice sheets and glaciers. These icebergs often break off from the continent's ice shelves and float into the ocean.

i would check cylinder compression, and definitely the timing. if you have good compression and timing is good, i have found that a bad or slipped timimgbelt or even, I've found the crank gear keyway bent or broken allowing the gear to move just enough to go out of timing. also check your distribitor cap and rotor. all of these things can cause your prob..

In my 1995 Metro there is no clock, other than the one that is in the stereo. If the stereo is bad, just replace it. You will need a new stereo, a wiring harness if you don't want to hack up the old factory harness, and a install kit to make the stereo fit in the hole if the old stereo is factory. Then just follow instructions included with these parts.

Purchase a tach and it will come with instructions for installation.

There is a product called "Tiny Tach" used for ultralight airplanes. Very accurate digital, does not care how many cylinders you have. Installed by wrapping a wire around a spark plug wire, and connecting the other wire to ground. No tools. Self contained battery lasts 5 years or more. Available from Aircraft Spruce for about $39.

ok, I have the haynes geo repair manual it says code 23 , manifold air temperature (mat) /intake air temperature (iat) sensor circuit code 31 & 32, manifold absolute pressure (map) sensor circuit the above sensors eather need to be replaced or checked for problems with the sensor.

I have a 98 neon and you take out the 3 screws on the underside of the steering colum .this take off the cover so you can see everthing.you will see a coulpe of screws that hold it in place ,unplug the wires and unscrew it .

I just did this on my own van. The first thing to do is to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery. Then remove the serpentine belt. You'll need a 15 mm wrench to do this. I put a peice of exhaust pipe over the wrench for extra leverage. Put the wrench on the tension pulley and pull back to loosen the belt. Slip the belt off of the alternator pulley and let it drop down out of the way. Next, take the top bolt off of the alternator and loosen the bottom one. This will allow you to tlit the alternator back. Then remove the plate that the upper alternator bolt attaches to. This will give you room to get at the nut on the backside of the lower alternator bolt. Remove this bolt and the alternator will be free. Remove the electrical connections and then you are ready to pull the alternator out. It is a very tight fit to pull the alternator out between the support bracket and the fender well but it can be done. Remove the windshield tray drip hose and pull it out of the way. Pull the alternator forward and jockey it around until it comes out. You may have to push in on the support bracket to get it to come out.

To put the new one in , do everything in reverse order. Have fun with the belt!!

well i just had to do that this last summer. u pretty much have to take off ur head . wich means you will need to have a new head gasket . but u have to take off ur cam. its only a 3 cylinder and its all easy to get to its just annoying but ur gonna need to take out the valves to replace the seals and make sure there seated corectly ur prolly going to want to replace the exaust valves also as they burn up . most likely u should have no problem with ur intake valves other than normal buildup but they all should be cleaned once cleaned and u make sure there seating smoothly the valve stem seal is what slips on the end of each valve. im pretty tired at the moment and my literacey and spelling is horrid. if this helps it helps but pretty much ur gonna need to buy at least a head gasket and id bet ur exaust valves could use replaceing also. as that can cause alot of blow by ..."smoke from exaust" anyways good luck

Most of the lighting on the rear of the Geo is housed inside the rear lense assembly. By removing the series of Phillips head screws that holdl the lense in place, you should be able to remove the lense and thereby access the lamps.

BoostMobile offers nationwide coverage as for MetroPCS they too offer coverage nationwide. I traveled to Puerto Rico with a Boost phone but had no coverage. I was told I would have to buy a phone from a Boost store in Puerto Rico in order to get service there. I now have MetroPCS and when I traveled to Puerto Rico I had coverage and web/messaging with no problems throughout the island and no extra fees. I traveled throughout the United States inland and had no problems with either phones unless the area had no access to a cell tower. Oh by the way my girl friend had Verizon and her plan charged her 69 cents per minute additional in Puerto Rico for calls and they stated she had unlimited web/messaging for no additional fee only thing her service did not work. She had to borrow my phone to text and send pictures plus to call for free. Many times when I did travel throughout the USA my metro worked and so did my boost. Both companies are good companies for the price you pay. A great thing about BoostMobile they have they have montly shrinkage. Which means every 6 months if you pay your bill on time they will lower your bill by $5.00, until the bill is $35.00. So from $50.00 bucks it can be lowered to $35.00 bucks for the same exact service. Saving you a good amount of cash.

The Paris Métro is an electric underground railway system; the term metro is also used in other countries to define a rapid transport system, not necessarily underground.

For the front brakes put the car up on jack stands or you can do one wheel at a time with a regular jack. Remove the front wheels. There are 2 bolts on the back of the caliper holding it to the hub assembly. Remove those 2 bolts and the caliper will slide off from the side. Don't let the caliper hang by the brake hose. Try using a bungee cord or some wire and tie to any part of the car for support so it can hang without damaging the hose. If the rotor needs replacing that should slide freely right off the wheel studs at this point. Next you will need a C-clamp. Find a good access point on the caliper and place one edge of the clamp to the caliper and the other edge to the brake pad that is set in the piston. Compress the brake pad until it won't move inward anymore and then loosen and remove the C-clamp. Remove the old brake pads with a flat head screw driver. They are only held in by metal clips. Installation is the reverse procedure. You may want to spray the back of the new brake pads with an anti squealing compound and allow to dry before installing them. This will ensure nice quiet brakes. Also you will need to pump the brakes a few times when you first start the car until the brake pad feels normal again. It will be very loose because the calipers will still be compressed.

For the back brakes put the car on jack stands or you can do one wheel at a time. Remove the rear wheels. You will need to pull the drum off of the wheel assembly. This may requre some banging with a large hammer. I believe on the Geo there is one retaining screw that will be a real pain to get off with a regular screwdriver. You may want to purchase a power driver for this application so as not to strip the screw. One can be purchased at a good auto parts store for about $20.00. Make sure the emergency brake is not on or you will never get the drum off. Once the drum is removed there are 2 retaining springs on each brake pad that can be a pain to remove. You can try with a regular pair of pliers and push the spring in and turn it clockwise so that the retaining post can easily slide through the slot on the plate connected to the spring. They also sell a tool specifically made for this purpose. You will also need to disconnect the emergency brake cable which will be attached to only one of the brake pads at the bottom. You should be able to remove both pads at the same time. They will be connected together by a spring at the bottom and separated by a cylinder with a star wheel on it. You will want to turn the star wheel to close the distance between the pads. Take note of how the pieces are put together before removing everything because there are some pieces that are held in by other pieces and they may fall out while removing the pads. Installation is the reverse procedure. Once the new pads are on you will want to put the car in reverse and let it roll to the end of the drive way and then slam your brakes. This will set the cylinder with the star wheel so that you have the proper distance between the brake pads.

Does it not blink or keep blinking? Check your bulbs first (all of them).

my left front turn signal does not come on. the bulb needs to be changed but how do i access the bulb? the area where the bulb is is very tight.

What make/model vehicle? 97 JEEP CHEROKEE

This job requires removing seven individual parts in the proper order and the use of special tools for removal and reseating of the replacement bearing and seal. It's probably not a job that should be taken on by anyone who needed to ask this question.

Look under the dash between steering column and driver's side door, you may have to lay on your back to see under the dash and take a flashlight, the fuses are marked around the outside of the box to tell you what they are for, and under the hood up next to the firewall on the driver's side is another set of important fuses, different type than under the dash, but take a look, they are also marked as to what they control.