GMC Jimmy

Just pull the stalk straight out and it pops out. Then trace the wires down to the connection point under the dash. Use a wire or string to connect it to the old wire before you pull it through the column to make installing the new one easier.

This problem can be an expensive one to fix because the whole heater box has to come apart. There is a plastic "hinge" that controls the opening and closing of the door. It is easily broken and jams up. The whole assembly has to be replaced. It's not an easy fix.

dexron 3 replaces dexron 2, so you could mix them but the dexron 3 is better

usually in passenger side kick panel accessed through a hole cut near the top middle. usually in passenger side kick panel accessed through a hole cut near the top middle.

2 bolts at the top, just unscrew them. un clip the defroster cables and unscrew the arms. be very careful putting the new one on. you wil need a couple of people to hold it for you it took 2 people to hold and me to screw the new one into place.

if you look at you crank shaft pully,right behind it is your harmonic balancer,there are numbers eched in to the edge of it. if you turn the motor over till you see the "0" at the end of the arrow plate attached over top the balancer then look at the cam shaft.there is either a dot or a line on the end of it. the dot sits at the bottom of the cam shaft when the crank is set to "0"

Ummm...I think it would be safe to say that the washer motor is faulty. Do the wipers work when you push the windshield washer button? Good luck, Mr. Dog

Open the back door hatch.

find the two side screws.

unscrew them both.

pop taillight off ftom car.

unplug all three bulb holders.

install new bulbs.

and last screw the two screws back into place on inner car holes.

Yes! It is non-interference

This answer is based off a 1997 s-10 2wd 2.2 liter 4 cyl:

First you must remove the wheel using 3/4in. socket on air gun, Rachet, breaker bar, or by using a "4-way."

Next, remove the caliper. For this you will need a rachet assembly with a 3/8in Allen head to remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the mount. After removing the bolts, pull the caliper off of the rotor.

You will then remove the dust cap using either a chisel or small flat head screw driver and a hammer gently tapping the chisel between the dust cap and te end of the rotor. Once removed you will have access to the cottor pin and nut. Remove the cottor pin with pliers then use the pliers to loosen the nut(which should not be too tight). Place the nut it the dust cap and prevent rust/dust from getting on it. Next hold your hand under the end of the rotor and with your free hand tap against te outside face of the rotor, this should release the washer and outside bearing front the shaft(if not carefully use two flat head screw drivers to work them out(again prevent rust/dust etc from getting on these parts and set them in the dust cap, seeing that you will more than likely reuse them) Now, it is easiest to replace the nut back onto the shaft by a few threads. Gently pull the rotor off while turning it down slightly so that the back bearing catches on the nut and stays on the shaft. Set rotor on a piece of paper towel for now and remove the back bearing. While the rotor is off you might as well clean the wheel sensor, this can be done by covering up the shaft with a CLEAN rag or CLEAN paper towel, and using a magnet and paper towel to remove metal particles/rust/dust from the surface and around the sensor.

Getting the new rotor ready: New rotors come from the factory with a protective film on them, grab a couple paper towels and a can of carbuerator cleaner, with out spraying into the center of the rotor which will house the bearings and come in contact with the shaft, spray both front and back surfaces and wipe the film off. Now, you can either reuse the factory grease or purchase new grease, this depends on the quality of the grease within the old rotor, If reusing grease, use a finger(gloved or no glove again choice is yours), to pack the grease around on the inside cylindrical surface of the rotor which again will house the bearings and come in contact with the shaft. You can now replace the inside bearing which will have a tapered fit into the new rotor, you will need to install a "wheel seal" after installing the bearing(your part supplier will know the part you need, the wheel seal has two different sides one which is "open" and one side which is not), place the open side into the rotor and gently tap the seal into place, make sure it is seated all the way in and try not to hit the rotor while doing so. you can now slide the rotor onto the shaft and put the outside bearing and washer back on (the washer should fit into a key slot), thread the nut on finger tight until you can just fit the cottor pin back into its hole on the shaft through the nut (pliers can be used due to the fact that the grease on the nut can make this difficult). You can just simply pound the dust cap on with a hammer, but personally I would rather not damage the cap, so for this you will need a larger size flat head screw driver and a hammer. Fit the cap into place and altough this can be tricky, place the screw driver around the outside edge and tap on the screw driver with the hammer all the way around until it is fully seated. I would recommend new pads whenever changing rotors but again that is your choice. If replacing pads simply pull off the old ones and replace with new ones, If reusing old pads lightly sand down the surface to remove any rust/dust. Now just slide the caliper back onto your newly installed rotor. Line up the holes and replace the bolts. once tightened down, I would recommend "seating" the new/old pads to the rotor. Find a road that or parking lot on which you can accellerate up to 30mph and half room to firmly and steadily apply the brakes (This is not to check how fast you can stop, You SHOULD NOT slam on the brakes while doing this process) Repeat the acceleration to 30mph and firmly applying the brakes for a totaly of 4-6 times, again this allows for the new rotors/pads to seat properly against each other. I hope this helps you out and allows you to keep from wasting money at a dealership or shop. W.F.

There is a broken wire below your shifter in the console. This controls a solenoid that releases the key.

The shifter in the center consle has a part that controls a current to solenoid in your steering column. A quick fix is a nail or piece of wire to release the key. This is in the steering column. There is a pop out that must pushed in to release the key. A longer term fix to replace the part in the shifter.

they are everywhere...any where there is a joint or working, encased, parts.

the airbag module is located under the center console, between the seats under the carpet. the wiring comes out the back and under the drivers seat. if you want to cut the carpet instead of removing both seats, start at the hump and cut towards the front so you don't cut the wires.

The oil pump wouldn't work any more

Very soon after that neither would your motor.

I had the same problems, turn the ignition on (without starting car). Then shift the truck into reverse and back into park. If you look under the steering wheel on the bottom cover right behind the wheel you will see a round cap about 3/4" round. pop it off and there is a hole that you can push a pen or nail up in to the hole and hit a release switch. I put a bolt in it. remove the bottom cover of the steering wheel calm and drop a 3/8 X2" bolt in the hole and put the cover back on and cut the bolt off so you don't hit it with your knee. when the key get stuck just push the bold up and turn the key. its like some of the old cars that you had to push a button to turn the car off.

It is possible that the electrical wirings are grounded. You'll probably need to get an auto-electrician to take a look at it.

check throttle position sensor.

I don't have a 99 GMC Jimmy

Pull the fuse......

33 ft lbs

check dist. cap for water

Is the condition in which a person or community is deprived of or lacks the essentials for a minimum standard of well-being and life. understood in many senses, these essentials may be material resources such as food, safe drinking water, and shelter, or they may be social resources such as access to information, education, health care, social status, political power, or even the opportunity to develop meaningful connections with other people in society.


It is the state in which a person or community are unable to get what they need in their life because of some number of factors like food, education, sheter etc.

So it can be consider as the lack of certain basic amenities.

try switching the 4x4 when you transmission is in neutral, then drop your trans into reverse, roll back a few feet it should engage.

my wife has a 94 jimmy, this works every time seems when i take it back outta 4 it takes the same procedure. ours has the push button....

there is a vacuum switch ( if I remember right this will make light flash and go out) on transfer case that can go bad and also a vacuum actuator ( will allow light to stay on has more power to rearend but no power to front wheels)under battery box that can go bad.

Yes. My past experience as an Administrative Coordinator required me to deal with many serious situations since I held emergency on-call duties as a supervisor. One example was when I was called by a Resident Assistant to deal with an attempted suicide on her residence hall floor. The situation required that I think clearly and quickly in this life-and-death situation. I had to weigh the many tasks that needed to be completed. I had to assign RAs to call 911, make sure that EMS could get into the locked building, while at the same time applying first aid, and ensuring that the rest of the residents on the floor were OK. I also had to make sure the privacy of the resident in need was respected. I basically prioritized and dealt with each task by its importance. I delegated responsibility to RAs for things that they were capable of handling because I could not physically be in many places at once. Once the resident was taken to the hospital, I was responsible for paperwork and follow up to make sure the staff members, residents, and the resident-in-need adjusted back to "normal" life. I know this is an extreme example not found in the financial consulting field; however, it shows just how well I can deal with extreme pressure.