Honda CRX

get a starter switch from your parts store so you can hook dierctly to the starter when your under the hood sinc its dierect if it starts it most likely loose contact if it doesn't start check g.n.d.(-) and try 1s more

Your catalytic converter is at the top of your motor at the exhaust manifold take out the 4 14mm screws that connect your converter to your manifold drop down out the bottom of engine and replace another really simple fix

it is located down by the timing chain case u have to acess this from the bottom of the car ! i did the same thing on mine ^^^^^Nope Most Hondas have the coil mounted inside the distributor. Some models have an external coil which is highly visible. If you can't see the coil (or can only count 4 plug wires coming from the distributor) it's inside. ANswer U can make it external coil instead internal, its very easy today, google search will find u some tutorial

Anything engine/transmission that Honda makes will go into the early CRX. Parts are interchangeable between all versions of the D16. It means that someone can use the best parts of all versions.

my 86 crx hf does not have an o2 sensor. all the books say it does but mine (all stock) does not.

1-3-4-2

1-3 are towards the firewall

44

Could be a Fuel Relay Switch, or even the Fuel filter itself..

No, and it is probably illegal too.

These conditions can be related or separate. The check engine light may be illuminated for a TPS code or something altogether different. Once the new TPS was installed the OBD system should be scanned for new or old codes and cleared accordingly.

Nothing as they are traditionally hard to start. Make sure you have the bike in neutral before attempting as that does make it easier. Type your answer here...

88-89 hf crx uses 190cc

90-91 hf crx uses 240cc

I'm not a mechanic, just a persistent and informed amateur trying to make the job easier for those like me. Someone left instructions for replacing the fuel PUMP, not the fuel pump RELAY, so here it is:

The 1990 Honda CRX FUEL PUMP RELAY is also the MAIN RELAY, and is in a relievingly simple, but irritatingly tight spot.

1. Open the fuse cover beneath the steering wheel, take it off and set aside--it's not there, but will increase visibility.

2. Remove the side change holder just above the front hood release latch. One Phillip's screw at the bottom, and two screws at the top, with change holder open. BAM, just to your left in a little peek-a-boo spot, where the change holder used to be is the distinctly fat rectangular FUEL PUMP/MAIN RELAY!

3. It's attached to a little metal strip screwed into the frame--in a narrow cubby just above and in front of the hood latch release--and visible from lying down on your back or side uncomfortably in the driver's leg space. All the hex bolts in that vicinity are 10mm. Have both a 10mm wrench and a 10mm socket. The little wrench is for the one, narrow cubby relay bolt. The socket is for the two hood latch release bolts (necessary to get it out of the way to unscrew the relay bolt.

4. Then just unplug and replace!!!

5. Worst part...getting that ONE bolt back it to the relay post in that TIGHT spot! But you're DONE!!!

1984

no it is nard hard considering its a B seiries but you will ned a p28 ECU , aftermarket B series to 88-91 hasport crx mounts, a standard tranny and a complete B20B swap not a longblock or shortblock. - *PHaZE II* -

I have already checked and it is not the distributor cap, spark plugs or wires. The car was running fine last night and was on 3 cylinders this morning. Any information would help. Thanks!

Inside fuel tank. There may be an access panel in the trunk. If not the tank must be removed.

I just replaced mine. it's in the tank toward the front of the car. The fuel float is under the storage compartment behind the seat, just so you won't waste time like I did pulling it all out.

You'll definitely have to drop the tank since the fuel pump is inaccessible otherwise. Just be careful not to put pressure on the fuel lines when you do and drain the tank into something.

Once you get the pump out make sure it's dead first. You can plug it straight to the car battery for a few seconds. Mine was fine. The problem turned out to be the main fuel relay which is very common in Hondas. The car wouldn't crank after sitting in the hot sun, but would fire up after it cooled off and acted up intermittently while I was driving. I figured the pump.

The main-fuel relay is on an L bracket attached to the hood release. It's a standard 12 volt mechanical relay so as long as the prongs match it'll work. The one for your AC will do. I replaced mine with one from a Mitshibishi since it was a special order deal and i needed the car. $35 US. Much cheaper than a fuel pump.

honda-tech.com has a good write up

NO

Its under the timing cover. Do it each time you replace the timing belt between 60,000 or every 5 years if you don't drive so much. Do the tensioner as well as preventive maintenance.

When you press the accelerator and brake together in a motor car, the engine will rev, but the brake will stop it from moving. Doing this repeatedly can cause the vehicle damage.

Will a 90 crx rear bumper ant mount fit an 89 DX hatch?

don't try to put trans fluid on clutch. manual tranny uses 40wt oil.

the radiator cap is located on the radiator which is the the thin rectangular block with lots of cooling fins. when you open the bonnet itsnearest thing to the bonnet release. Its possible that your car did not come with a radiator cap since it was an optional item.