Mazda 323

Your distributor might be shot, in which case you will need to have it rebuilt. The part itself is not that expensive, but the work is labor intensive and could run the cost way up. Remove the fuel filter and check for the presence of fuel pressure. Removing the fuel filter entirely is not necessary. You can disconnect the fuel line from the discharge side of the filter. With the help of a friend, place a catch can in place and turn on the ignition. Turn the engine over if necessary. If no fuel comes out of the filter, the fuel pump is probably not working. Mazda was smart enough to put an access panel under the rear seat so the fuel pump can be reached without removing the fuel tank. The fule pump should hum from a few seconds when the ingnition is first turned on. If there's no hum, use a test light or meter to check power to the pump. If there's power but no hum, the pump will need to be replaced. If there's no power to the pump, check your fuses and the fuel pump relay. If there is fuel flowing thru the filter, the problem could be in the ignition system. Proper trouble shooting would depend on exactly what the engine is doing when you try to start it. Hopefully you have someone at your disposal who has a little knowledge about cars. The problem could be simple or it could be complicated.

It's most likely a blow head gasket. If it has been overheated a couple of times it's most likely a warped/cracked head. Check to see if there is water vapour coming from the tailpipe. If there is water in the oil (the oil will look like there's milk in it and is sometimes foamy) and after the motor is hot, take the oil filler cap off and look for steam (steam will look different from smoke - it will dissipate soon after leaving the engine compartment). If these things are true for this car I would recommend trying a head gasket repair kit like "QuickSteel" or something similar, beacuse having the head gasket replaced and/or having the head remachined is well over what this car is now and has been worth for at least 15 years.

engine size is found on the engine, but all Mazda engines in the b and z family have the imprint of DOHC on the rocker-cover when they are dohc

if you find an imprint of b6-XX-XX then you have a 1.6 and if dohc is found on the rockercover then it is a 1.6 dohc.

if you see b8, then that is always a 1.8l SOHC engine

According to a Mazda dealer in Chingford it is at 54000 miles or after six years.

With an uncle and a hammer.

Other than a replacement stock motor, you will need new motor mounts. Like if you put a 5.4 or a 5.8 Liter motor. I would think that ur best bet if you want to replace the engine on a 94 mustang to get a built up engine or get a stock motor and get a stroker kit to increase the displacement and power output. But other than the stock engine "ease" can vary, like i said with the motor mounts and electroincs.

Your 94 mustang engine could be replaced by almost anything. From a 60's era ig block to a 2.3 L turbo motor from an SVO mustang. I would start with the engine size that the car had before and go from there.... if you ave more info or more specific questions, email me at Prodiclson@AOL.com

I have a 94 V6 Mustang, and one thing I know is that if my engine ever blows for needs extensive work done to it then I would switch it with an engine from a 99 V6 mustang (just for insurance purposes cuz I'm 21). Your stock 94 V6 only has 145 hp at the fly wheel, If you get a 99 V6 it has around 194 hp at the fly wheel. The reason for this is in the intake ports. 94's -98 have a single port injection and the 99 has split port injection giving you 50 extra horse. The engine is th same block and will use the the same tranny, but some electrical work will be needed to be done in order to convert over. To me the is the best solution because it keeps your insurance down and is almost a direct swap.

Stick With the V-6, there are many upgrades available for it unlike the past when V-6 parts were rare and expensive, for a good combo try this: 2000 3.8L Bottom End,Heads,Lower Intake and a 2000 Winstar Upper Intake and a BBK Throttlebody, Very driveable,good Gas Mileage and its about even with a stock 5.0L on Power.

The 1994-95 SN-95 Mustang is essentially the same mechanically as the 1979-93 Fox Body Mustang. It still uses the same front crossmember, steering assembly, subframe design, rear ends (7.5" and 8.8"), and the Windsor family of engines. This means that any Windsor bolt pattern transmission will also fit, such as the World Class T-5, T-56, and automatic AOD or AODE (computer controlled AOD) transmissions. The stock crossmember will accept the various engine mounts as direct bolt in replacement without modification. Be aware that changing to a more powerful engine will mean necessary upgrades to braking, the rear end, suitably strong transmission, exhaust, and possible hood clearance issues. As for insurance, if the car is VINed as a V-6, then your insurance will be based off of it being a V-6 regardless of what you put in it. This also means if your car is wrecked, they will not cover the replacement cost of whatever engine you put in, a nasty catch-22. I have a 1994 Mustang Coupe that I replaced the 3.8L with a 5.0L. I went carbureted and avoided a lot of headache, but it is a direct bolt in. Also check local emissions laws (if applicable, I.E. California).

First remove the outer casing the thin black plastic strip around the outside of the radio, you do this by pushing in 2 plastic hooks at the top and bottom. now look below the radio on the dash you will find 2 philipshead screws holding the plastic casing around the radio. remove these and also the plastic casing. on the underside of the radio is a metal dock with screws on either side of the unit. remove these 4 screws and slide the the unit forward remove the plug in the back of the unit. discard radio and plug in the new CD player repeat the steps above in reverse.

Without a signal from the crank sensor, the ECU won't know how fast the engine is turning or "where it is" (which cylinder is about to fire), and the engine will not run.

If the sensor is just "somewhat bad" (and gives a weak or irregular signal), the engine might do things like run badly at certain speeds, stop occasionally, or have trouble starting.

Under the bonnet. :-)

To change the alternator belt on a Mazda 323, first remove the right hand air shield under the can. Then locate the pulley tensioner of the AC and loosen the bolts on the pulley. Finally, remove the alternator pivot bolt under the alternator to remove the old alternator belt and replace with a new one.

How about at the negative terminal of the coil?

If you turn the engine by hand it should be 0V then go to 12V then back to 0V. HI There is no PIP signal to the Coil the car has 12v to coil I have replaced the distributor with a remanufactured unit and is the same thing Timing belt is good i got fuel compression good car was running good its automatic I reciently checked the wiring to the ECU and it is good also tryied with other ECus and the same no PIP signal to coil thanks

I'm guessing it doesn't work at all? If so then you should change the fuse, if it still doesn't work than it might be something to do with the wiring. I have a 1991 Mazda 323 and my fuse kept blowing because I tryed to plug in my iPhone... Thing was that older cars weren't made to support it. To fix that problem I just put in the next higher fuse than required (they say its not recommended) though it worked just fine for me. Anyways good luck, hope it helped.

Most mfg. suggest to change it at 60k miles. Since your car has over 90k , Isuggest you change it as soon as possible, My 1989 car broke the belt and it bent valves and damaged head and pistons. Changing the belt is not expensive,

HLA,S hydraulic lash adjusters carbon build up make sure oil level is right may have to have rockers replaced

i suggest u either get a new key or ignition

Look on the bottom or rear of the radiator or just remove the lower radiator hose

the handbrake cable splits into two under neath the car. To adjust the handbrakes, alter the adjusting bold ratio at the bottom and on both sides of the car.... You can also remove the cover off the handbrake cable and tighten to size 10 bold that links the cable to the mechanisim inside the car

Never heard of anyone doing it. It is possible t relocate the overdrive button, but not bypass it. When tarted the transmission has the overdrive on in default mode you can turn t off with the button but once you shut the car off and turn it back on the overdrive will be on again. On my B&M shifter i drilled a small hole in the side of the plastic base and mounted the button there works like a charm.

the radiator drain plug is located on the bottom of the radiator,on the radiator

If the transmission would not go into gear before changing the transmission fluid, then the fluid change was for naught. Hopefully you changed the filter in there, too.

If the tranny was busted before the oil change, then simply changing the oil is not going to fix the problem.

Trouble code P0730 means:Incorrect gear ratio

Your Neutral Safety Switch needs to either be adjusted, cleaned or replaced. A new one runs about $250, but you can remove it and clean the contacts (maybe expand the springs for better contact if required.) The grease that is used inside can get hard and prevent the contacts from touching. It's located on the front of the transmission on the drivers side and it's relatively easy to remove. Remove the nut that holds the shift lever onto the Switch, pull the wiring harness off, remove the large nut, washer and rubber gasket from the transmission lever and then remove the two bolts that hold the switch on. Remove the Neutral Safety Switch and then take the switch apart. Make sure that both contacts on the wiper are clean and that the springs push the contacts against the copper tracks. Also clean the contacts and traces with fine sandpaper. Put it back together and re-install just the opposite of the way you took it out. You should see all your PRNDL lights on your dash again. You might need to adjust the switch slightly if the lights don't line up with the gear you are in. Always be sure that the little pointer on the front of the switch points straight up with you are in neutral.

no because the fuel pump is in the gas tank the tank needs to be removed to get to the fuel pump.

13 lakhs

It would appear that the horn button (on top of the steering wheel) is stuck. Beat on it with you fist to see if that stops it. If it doesn't, you're going to have to pop the horn button off. Analyze and repair the problem. You can disconnect the power source from the horn to make it stop. On the back of the horn itself(if you can find it under your hood) there is a wire that supplies the electric power, disconnect this wire.