Mazda 323

Head gaskets don't usually fail unless there is a reason. Most likely the engine overheated or something else happened to cause the head to warp. If that is the case you will need to solve the REASON for the gasket failure.Pull the head then take it to a machine shop to have it resurfaced. They will make the head surface flat again and it can be re-installed without risk of it failing again immediately.

While you have the head apart, you should have the valves and guides reconditioned. Once you have gone to all of that troule, you might as well rebuild the entire engine, since it isn't that much additional effort and expense to do the whole thing.

circulating fan is probably not working when car is moving it works with outside airflow, check for blown fuse

I am trying to sign in, however, you site want allow me, it takes me for an orbit into outter space. Very wiered site!

It is on the fender right beside the coolant reservoir.

it depends on the model of 323, as through the years the 323 has had many different engines, it started in front wheel drive version as a E series which was 1300 & 1500 engine, then came the B series which was 1300, 1500, 1600 and 1800, it has had the KF 2000 engine, the last of the 323 engines were Z series which were 1500 and 1600

SAE 10W30

The 1991 Mazda 323 came equipped in two OEM tire sizes. Assuming the vehicle still has the original wheels the sizes were 155-13 and 175/70/13.

hey== just take off the frame, slide it out and replace its simlpy easy!

sincerly, hnrvjeyshtl

i had the same probelm what i did was, as i had a old system i connected the wires which go in to vehicle together so the system is there but wont work to its full potentiol

I'm not by any means an expert but on my 87 4X4 5 speed the cable runs from the speedometer down the top right of the transmission into the back of the transfer case under neath the truck. It will be a thick (about 3/8"), stiff, black wire which is actually the cable housing.

difficult to reach.facing front end,lower rt corner,backside of radiator,look or feel through holes in frame.rubber splash panel must be snapped loose for access.

In the left front corner of the engine compartment (or the near right side if you're standing in front of the car looking at it). The airbox is a black square plastic thing, about 15x25cm, with a thick black tube leading to the engine. Take out the four screws in the corner of the airbox and lift the top off. Inside you will find a square air filter.

no, it needs a key!

Remove wheel undo center driveshaft nut in center of rotor separate spindle from control arm by undoing ball joint pull spindle out and off to one side while sliding end driveshaft stub spline out of hub (rotor center) take a long screwdriver or prybar and pry inner driveshaft joint out of trany reverse to install **check seal on trany for damage or just change it to be safe & top up trany**

yeah it sounds weird, but replace the fluid with either mercon III or dextron II atf and it works fine.

My Mazda 323 86 does the same, i think its a vaccuume hose missing. Otherwise oil filter, fuel filter, air filter, water in petrol tank. More but too varied question.

If your Mazda 323 is a 1994 then it could well be your thermostat. I had an over heating problem when my 323's temp gauge was flying off the rails. I tried lots of things even took it to 7 mechanics and they all said my headgasket had blown. I found the thermostat after it being so old it starts to jam up. I replaced it and walah. Main symptoms are your radiator water beginning to boil and shake you can hear it too.

If you find the pipe connected to your engine on the right hand side of your radiator take a set of pliers and undo the jubilee clip on the engine side of the pipe. Take of the inlet which is holding the pipe to the engine by 3 bolts. The thermostat is located behind it. Replace the thermostat which you can pick up for around £6 then replace everything, refill your radiator and bobs your uncle. good luck

Very easily and quickly apparently, look for the hose that comes out of your RAD on top, this leads to the thermostat housing, there you will find two bolts, unscreww, take out thermostat and gasket, look as far as you can and chuck it in that direction, now the tricky bit, these ye old mazdas use a metal water bypass system, u needen worry about this, just be very careful of it, one push in the wrong direction, and they are history, having said that, get some silicon gasket sealer and create a gasket, or get a new one, and a new thermostat, instal, bolt up, and hey presto, thank you, Blu Dragon to the rescue once more.

bollocks

first drain then undo clips holding it in then then undo hoses put in new one do up hoses then replace clips then fill with 50/50 coolant and water

Current production cars typically have anti-siphon necks on the fuel tanks in order to both prevent fuel from being siphoned out, as well as to keep foreign material from going in.

For the stock XP Iridium spark plugs the gapping is .051, I would suggest not changing the stock spark plugs until your warranty has expired. Mazda tried giving me crap for changing mine.

The Fuel Pump is located under the Access Plate under the back seat.

Either your handbrake switch is broken and will not turn off or you have low brake fluid.