Mazda 323

The sensor is threaded into the head to the left of the thermostat housing and has a single wire connector on it.

Thanks

Malcolm

The best i have found is an owners manual. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Mazda/323/323F%20Mazda%20(89-94).pdf

The horn relay should be located on the fuse box under the dash. most of the horn relay's that I have seen are a big white fuse, if it isn't on the fuse box, check near the horn.

bridge tat and gnd in your diagnostic box turn key on . if hold light flashes 6 times it is speed control sensor in speedo 55 is trans fault 5slow flashes for 10s fast flashes for 1 to 9

The correct gap for these spark plugs is 1.1mm. When you buy new plugs they should already be adjusted to the right size. My car book says to look underneath the hood at the engine specifications.

It should be changed every 60,000 miles on all years 1988-94 with a timing belt. It is not an interference engine.

4x110

I haven't been able to find.

Usually it's inside the distributor, depending on the kind of ignition used.

undo the dash surround( two screws into the top, then pull out.

undo all the screws mounting the dash panel, pul out

flip over and the lights are right there, replace, then put back in..

Try this below. I have the code to unlock Mazda radios the have 'ERR' due to 3 wrong codes. Do not listen to mazda book that states 3 wrong codes make CD playing Inop req replacement... 121 Metro DW10*2 > 203028, MX5 NB30P2, Milennia,323 BJ10*2, 626 GF10S2, Tribute. Step one:- press one at a time- preset 6, AM, Auto M, Seek ^ (up). Step Two:-Input this number, 4989. Step Three:- Press and hold Auto M and Preset 6 together. Step Four:- The Word 'GOOD' will appear on the screen indicated that the radio will work. Step Five:- Reprogram new Antitheft code into radio as per instrution manual. Hope this helps some people out, save you some money as so.

yes but you need different motor mounts

side of transmission thru speedometer cable port

Should be similar process to bleeding the brakes. Fill the Clutch bottle with DOT 3 Brake fluid, have a friend depress the pedal 10 times, holding it down on the 10th pump. Then YOU climb under the truck, using a 9mm wrench, open the valve on the clutch slave cylinder and allow the air bubbles to squirt out. Close the valve, have your friend pump another 10 times and hold the pedal down again, repeat the valve opening process. CLose the valve tight. Repeat a 3rd time. SHould be all you need. open clutch bottle fill with fluid then open slave cylinder and let that drain in to you see is running only fluid and no bubbles should fill twice close slave cylinder and put lid on bottle now you pump a couple of times you will feel the difference this is one men job.

Tranny problem.

fwd

Under the dash next to the ecu. Sitting in the passenger seat, it's where your left foot would rest against the center console.

No compression on all cylinders would indicate a broken cam belt. i think this motor has hydralic lifter, but for them to cause no compression it would be unlikly. when you say no do you mean none at all or low compression? a broken cam belt could be the cause if all cylinders have no compression. if the cylinders are down it could be bad valve seats (the point of contact between the valve and the head). if it is one or two cylinders it could be cracked head or cracked/broken head gasket. the only other possablilities are broken rings or broken piston. you need to know compression reading of all cylinders in a dry and wet situation. to do this 1:take the compesssion of a cylinder 2:then remove compression guage and squirt two good squirts of engine oil in the cylinder through the plug hole. 3:retake comperssion reading of cylinder. if the compression reading increases you have bad rings, if it doesnt the rings are fine. hope that helped and not confused you Geoff

when mine was doin that i cleaned the tank and let it sit for a couple days and changed the fuel filter which was stopped up. metal fuel tanks need to cleaned or replaced if any rust is visible...and fuel filters to....

B6-b6t-b6d- all 1600 or 18oo bp - bpt -bpd.....

you did it too close, you need to spray it at a good distance

It could be like mine was, the cadilatic (not sure on the spelling) converter was plugged. Once fully plugged my car had no pick up what so ever but on the way there. It would run rough at times, go slow, pick up speed, then all of a sudden run perfect then crappy again. You could also sometimes smell a rotten egg smell. All they did was cut it off at Midas for 70 bucks and it ran fine.

This is from the Owners Handbook of my Mazda 323, 1996 :

Alternator Drive Belt.

1. Loosen the alternator mounting bolt and adjusting bar bolt. Replace Fanbelt.

2. Turn the adjusting bolt until the correct tension is obtained. The deflexion should be 10mm.

3. Tighten bolts and recheck the tension.

I believe you are refering to the thermal switch for the electric fan. The switch is located on the bottom tank of the radiator on the driver's side (left-hand drive), just above the drain plug. This switch is a thread-in type with two round prongs where the wires connect. To remove/replace, drain the radiator first, then using a 21 mm socket or wrench, unthreadd the switch from the radiator. There is a second switch which threads into the thermostat housing loacted on the back on the engine head. This switch is part of the emmission control system and also controls the electric fan. Before you remove or replace the radiator switch, disconnect the wire from the thermostat housing switch first, to test the rad switch and electric fan. (I had to do this job just last weekend). Cheers Malcolm

It is hidden behind a plastic shield underneath the car, just before the rear, passenger side tire.