Mazda 626

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Go back and make sure all the nuts and bolts are tight and everything is seated correctly. Did you have the strut out or loosen the top nuts?

go to your local autozone.

by what do you mean interference engine?

I'm guessing that it has a closed radiator, so one would use the overflow basin to add liquids. Otherwise one would use the radiator cap..

Probably starter solenoid switch

ford probe is the same engine/transmission configuration

A 2001 Mazda 626 V6 - 4.2 quarts

A 2001 Mazda 626 4 cylinder - 3.7 quarts

if its still in the car and every thing is hooked up thatn it want turn over and you will have to take it out and have it repaired or rebuilt rather if its isn't in the car than just get a socket and break bar and put it on the center pully and try to turn it if it doesn't turn than its bad. its usually fairly easy to fix this with new bearings an engine dip and new pistons

distributor or coil

what is this red light above my fuel gauge on my 2004 land rover discovery

On a permanent slide "TS" stands for Transparent Slide. This abbreviation is also used in software downloads as Transfer Stream.

As far as i know the block and head on the earlier model 626's(96-98)also work....is the same engine,the only difference is the intake manifold(which the 2000 626 one is an upgrade for the mzdaspeed protege)and the ignition which is different than the coil-on-plug on the protege////

Remove the transmission pan underneath and it's inside of it.

It could be any number of things, but I'd check for bad fan relay or fuse, sticking thermostat, blocked radiator or blown head gasket.

See if your owner's manual tells you. If you don't have one, then check the fill cap on the engine to see if it's marked with the grade of oil recommended and or check the dipstick. Most of the one's I have changed just use 10w30 or 10w40. I like Castor Oil, it doesn't tend to sludge up the engine like alot of other oil brands, and it holds up pretty well under high temps of the engine. Cheap oil brands tend to break down the viscosity alot faster and can cause some engine component damage. Good LUck.

During the first session

need to know if its a rotor in which case you need some sockets and a tool to turn the caliper just for rear disk brakes. and if you have drums you will need a basic brake tool set it cheaper to get everything and you can use it for almost all brakes that have drum. it will have a the spring tool and what looks like a screwdriver with a socket on the end for getting the hold down spring. and two spoons which are flat bars that turn the adjuster from behind the drum. you will need to replace the wheel cylinder if you see anything leaking inside the drum. since this will keep leaking and screws the brake shoes. clean the parts with brake cleaner and another suggestion. when taking the parts off keep the parts in order on the floor so you can remember what goes where and only take one side off at a time so you can look at the other side to help putting it back togeher. i case you forgot something or need help. i do this and i have doing repairs for years i saves time and you don't mix up the parts since some parts need to go on the same side they come off.

Regardless of make or year or model, one thing you need to watch is over tightning/tention of the belts which will put undue stress and premature failure on the bearings in your water pump, alternator, etc.

Good Luck! I'm sure it's easier than what I am having on my 1989 Mazda 323. The alternator/water pump share the same inside pully, outside the pully for the a/c compressor. So first, you have to remove that belt. The problem is, there is very limited clearance between the engine walls and the pullys (2" or less) and not a lot of space to use a pry bar of some sort to pull the belt across the pulley. I've loosened the alternator as much as possible and the belt seems impossibly too small to fit, yet when comparing the broken belt to the one I received at AutoZone, they seem to match in circumference.... I only wish I could have a belt a bit longer, as it would help with the install and I could take up the difference with the tensioner on the alternator.

I think this is an impossibe task for one person, as you will need a helper to "hit" the starter just momentarily as you pry the belt up agaist the pulleys using what limited space you have and at all cost, protecting your digits! FINGERS! It would hurt awfully bad to have one or more fingers caught in a revolving contraption worth less than your medical bills! I would have my helper TEST a few times at what just a "hit" is .. just a less than a second tap of the switch... even then, the engine may still start!!!!! So REMOVE THE COIL WIRE!!!!!!!! If you don't know what a coil wire is, then you have no business doing do it your self repairs! Save your fingers and possibly your life and call a professional mechanic. Anyway, if you pull the belt across the pully just right as your helper "hits" the starter, Violla!! Your belt is installed! Almost! You still need to take up the tension with the alternator; and reinstall the belt for the a/c.

As a final note, there is a product that used to exist in an arisol can that is basically a glue that is sprayed onto the belt while the auto is running that will reduce slippage, squeeking, and overtightning, plus claims to extend the life of the belts themselves, but I'm at a loss to remember now what the name is/was...... but I'm sure any knowledgable auto parts salesperson would know what I'm talking about... BeltGuard or somthing like that! Not a bad idea to purchase a can of that stuff and spray it on your newly installed belts as well as those you have not.

Another hint, While you have all the belts dissasembled, inspect them, and if any of them show the least signs of wear, replace them all while you still have the time and your tools out.... After all, if one went, the others should soon follow..... Also,,,, in some instances, the engine must be supported from undeneath as the engine mounting clamps need to be removed to gain access...Hope this is not your case..........

Best of luck to you!

Its the largest of the relays located under the hood fuse and relay box next to battery.its black and has 4 prongs.

Mounted on top and inside the fuel tank.

Inside of fuse box under hood...after lifting top off the fuse is black and has B458

it means it stuck in gear

See the following website for details... it depends on the year.

www.discountedwheelwarehouse.com/Mazda___Vehicle_Bolt_Pattern_

i don't know about the no fuel thing but check your head gasket and your timing belt it may have jumped time i know that's what was wrong with my gf's