Mazda

2.4 engine w/o rear heater 9.25 quarts

2.3 engine w heater 10 qts

3.0 engine 10 qts

Rick

I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. Visit my blog for cool articles and TSB's: http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com

The 5 speed manual in a 4x4 with the 4.0 V6 is the Mazda M50D, if your truck is a 4x2 I am unsure. There are at least a couple of different models of this transmission, so if you are looking for one at a salvage yard be very observant of what is in your truck compared to what you are looking at in the salvage yard. One from a F150 will not work. Look on your door post if it says trans code m yes it is an m50d r1

The Mazda stereo wiring consists of five different colors. The red wire is the positive wire. The black wire is the ground wire. The purple and yellow wires are the speaker wires. The white wire is the auxiliary wire.

There are two of them. One is under the hood, next to the main fuse box and the other is under the dash, just to the right of the steering wheel.

Instruction for Mazda 323 (09/89 to 07/94) in German language including many pictures you will find at www.autoschrauber.de/art/000069/achsmanschette _wechseln.htm .

www.popuplights.co.UK have a step by step guide for some related areas. it might be worth the look.

It should be a compatible change.Even though the b2000 is a smaller cubic inch engine the transmission should bolt exactly as the b2200 engine.To the best of my knowledge the 5spd was geared the same for the for the 86-93 should be 3.31 rear end differential.And not to confuse you but ,the transmission should be identical and use the same rear axle gears meaning yes the swap should totally be fine.I would take a good look at the donor transmission and the original just as a precaution for the overall bolt pattern,and cross member where it would bolt together.Unless I am just over looking something check out mazdatruckin.com for the what if,or can this work questions.Solid website and that member who runs the site also comments on here alot.I say green light for the change.And if you do the swap I suggest doing a full clutch kit(pilot bearing,release bearing) and check that rear main seal (I would replace it while your at this point) and a new flywheel if it is the original or get the old one resurfaced at machine shop.

NO

Yes, as long as the motor is an inline 6cyl. They also use dextron 3 auto trans fluid instead of gear oil. I have one for sale 500.00. If you can find one you won't touch it for less than 600.00 from a salvage yard. E me at spikeandbenatyahoo. com. I'm sure you know to use the at symbol instead of at. I also recomend replacing the slave cylinder. They are under 30.00 which is cheaper then pulling the trans if it go out in the future. All bearings as well. They are inexpensive too.

According to the Haynes Manual #36071 chapter 1 page 3, the firing order is :

Passenger Side Front cylinder is number one.

Passenger Side Center cylinder is number two.

Passenger Side rear cylinder is number three.

Driver Side Front is number four.

Driver Side Center is number five.

Driver Side Rear is number six.

The distributor firing order starts with the rearmost terminal (viewed from above) as cylinder one and proceeds in a clockwise fashion.

This is a verbal description of an illustration found in the book labeled

"36004-1-SPECS2b HAYNES".

i am sry to tell you that the arm Mazda 323 1993 cost $40,000 to repair but u ain't lucky cuz the arm Mazda 324 1994 cost $1 to repair

See picture below;

I have a 2006 Mazda 3 sedan 2.3 liter and my gas light was on last night, at 3.49 a gallon it took exactly $40.00 to fill it up.. *sigh*

When the check engine light comes on, it's a good indication that something is wrong with your engine.

The factory size tire for 2004 Mazda 6 2.3L engine in the U.S is P205/60R16

How to open gas tank cx 5

Ok short answer it is either the blower motor resistor is going bad or the blower motor itself is.To replace the blower motor it is on the passenger side and you have to remove the kick panel just below it and the four screws that hold it in place.Drop it down disconnect the wiring (note how the wiring hooks up to the old part).Connect the new blower due to if you connect the wiring incorrectly the blower will work but not blow air thru the vents properly and just swap the wiring connection to make the blower circulate in the correct direction.Now if this does not fix the issue then the blower motor resistor is bad,meaning it only works in one speed,or none at all.To replace this requires you to pull the whole blower housing down to replace it because it is mounted on top of the blower housing or you can remove the glove box about 10 screws and it is directly below that use a mirror to see it.It has two screws that hold it in place.The alternate plan it to remove the whole blower housing which has one strap holding it and one nut to pull the whole unit down.I would bet the blower motor is the problem FIRST,then if after replacing the fan speed in all selections does not work then replace the resistor.Side note the actual ignition key can affect the blower motor due to wear and jiggling the key or pulling the BIG fuse in the fuse block inside and reinstall makes it work fine can fix this too.It is black and in the center. I would start by replacing the blower motor first.I could write a book on this but this is the shortest version being tired.

fastest way scan engine for codes locate cylinder by code usually a bad coil. wire or plug is shot

According to your question I am assuming you are talking about the brake caliper. If so take the lid off of the the master cylinder. (where you put the brake fluid.) use your old brake pad and you will need a C-Clamp. Put the C-Clamp in the center of the old brake pad and tighten the clamp until the caliper piston can't go back any further. Put the new brakes on go back with installation. NOTE> DO NOT push the brake pedal while the top of the Master Cylinder lid is off. PUt The lid on then you can hit the brake pedal.

it's a Mazda 987c.c. 4 cylinders

There is an adjustment screw in the top or side of the headlight nacelle. Turn it one way and it raises or lowers the beam and the other one moves it sideways.

To change the brakes on a Mazda 3 shouldn't be rocket science. However it took me a lil while to figure it out. It's almost the same as changing regular caliper brakes except instead of using a C-clamp or similar object to compress the piston...use a pair of needlenose pliers and turn the tip of the piston in a clockwise rotation to compress it. A clamp will not work. aside from that everything should be pretty simple.

Hope this helps

make sure to apply pressure while turning

The battery is located in the trunk on the passinger side. Pull up on the carpet and you will see a brown press board and spare tire. The press board will have the tire wrench attached to it. Remove the press board and you will see the battery behind the the passinger side tail light down in the fender.

1. remove valve cover bolts. 2. use a screwdriver or small pry bar to remove valve cover 3.fill engine with gasoline. 4.carefully strike a match, and toss it into the engine. 5. locate your nearest used car dealership. 6. buy a Toyota.

We have just had some probems with our Mazda E2000 Campervan, and needed to fill the clutch fluid. While we had some difficulty finding the reservoir, there is a reservoir near the steering wheel on the left. It says that it is for brake fluid, but it is also for the clutch. We bled the clutch and while bleeding it the reservoir where the brake fluid is store dropped confirming that this is also the clutch reservoir.

Hope this helps.