Mercury Mountaineer

IAT sensors are usually located in the intake elbow. Have a pig tail connector and look like a loop with a probe inside of it once you unthread it. Actually on 2001 and later model V6 Mustangs the IAT is integrated into the MAF. If you look at the MAF on a 2000 and earlier it is a 4 pin. Where as 2001 and later it is a 6 pin. Those two additional wires run to the IAT. On 2000 and earlier the IAT is a small probe that is before the MAF, that is placed directly into the intake tube.

Bank 1 is the passenger side of the engine in your Mercury Mountaineer

Sensor 1 would be close to the engine before the exhaust enters the catalytic converter ( upstream sensor )

put air in the tire

You first need to open the rear lift gate. Then you need to remove the two hex-head bolts from the side of the tail lamp using a socket wrench and 7 mm socket.

I had the same problem with my 99 AWD mountaineer. I was told the front differential was bad.

Behind the throttle body opening under the throttle position sensor. Takes Torx t-20 bit to remove -- 2 screws, use Torx bit on a 1/4" socket drive with a 1/4" socket to break seal on Torx screws.

In the front passenger footwell by the kick panel ( the kick panel is the

interior trim panel just in front of the front doors by a persons feet )

You can view the 2000 Mercury Mountaineer owners manual ( which includes

the fuse diagrams ) online at :

www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces )

Click on Owner Guides

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In the fuse panel in the drivers end of the dash ( the fuse panel cover is visible with the drivers door open )

Fuse ( # 14 ) is a 10 amp fuse for the 4 Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System ( 4WABS ) module , 4 WABS main relay

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In the Power Distribution Box ( which is " live " ) located in the engine compartment

( Maxi-fuse # 3 ) is a 50 amp fuse for the 4 WABS module and ( mini-fuse # 7 is a 30 amp fuse for the 4 WABS module

It can't be done. The factory code is absolutely integral to the madule and will never be erased. That is something the engeneers decided was a "better idea." It's part of the engineering of the module. ----------------------------------------- The above person is haft correct regarding the factory code can never be erased. You can erase the old codes you had before and program a new codes in as long as it's not the factory code. Even the factory code can be change by the dealer only. Below is a link to the owner's manual. Copy and paste. https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.asp

You can find the five digit numbers for the keypad on a 2006 Mercury Mountaineer in the owners manual. You can also call the dealership and ask for a the code or take the vehicle in for a new code to be programmed.

" regular " unleaded , 87 octane

134a

On a 1999 Mercury Mountaineer :

In the Power Distribution Box ( which is " live " ) located in the engine

compartment ( maxi fuse # 4 is a 30 amp fuse for the power seat , power

windows and power moon roof )

There are also other fuses listed for the memory seat and heated seats

You can view the 1999 Mercury Mountaineer owners manual online at :

www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces )

Click on Owner Guides ( the fuse section starts on page 170 )

I had my transmission rebuilt on my 2004 Mountaineer. I believe it cost around $1800

If you have AWD the V6 should get 15/20 and the V8 should get 14/19. If you have RWD the V6 should get 15/21 and the V8 should get 15/19 city/hwy.

You need to buy a set of Ford radio removal tools (about $5) they are "U" shaped. Push the 4 ends into the 4 holes on the front of the radio about 1" until it releases and then use the tools like handles to pull it out. On 2002 and earlier I think you have to remove some trim first. After pullling it out unplug the antenna and the harness and you are done

Answer oil capacity for mercury mountioneer with 4.6 v-8 with filter change

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According to the 1999 Mercury MOUNTAINEER Owner Guide :

With engine oil filter change :

The 5.0L V8 engine takes ( 4.7 litres / 5.0 U.S. quarts of 5W-30 )

On a 1998 Mercury Mountaineer :

Using a funnel , add the automatic transmission fluid through the

automatic transmission fluid dipstick tube .

It is located near the firewall , just to the right side ( passenger

side ) of the engine , where the transmission is bolted to the rear

of the engine . ( the type of transmission fluid to use should be

engraved into the dipstick )

Get a can of WD 40 and put the little red tube that's taped on the side of the can onto the spray button at the top of the can, then open each door and spray the WD 40 into the door latch mechanism on the edge of each door. If you can't find the mechanism, open the door about 8" from the closed position, and look at the edge of the door. The mechanism is inside the horizontal slit that's about 1/2" wide and about 3" long, there's also 2 fastners above the opening and one below. Try to get the red tube into the edge of the opening and remember to spray both up, down and all around in there. If it doesn't work the first time, do it again, and remember to open and close the door numerous times after spraying to distribute the lube. Also remember that the courtesy and mirror lights are on a delay anyway, so it'll take a minute for them to go off, even when the probelm is fixed. But the door ajar display will disappear.... I had the same problem with my '02. WD40 worked for 2 days then, alarm at 2:30 AM the truck thinks the door just opened. I fixed problem permanently by changing the door ajar sensor located at the bottom of the door lock inside the door panel. You can barely see it, it is a light pink color and you have to get the tape off of it to unclip the plug. you have to twist the plug to get it out, on the driver door I twisted to the right. The part cost me $33.75 from a local guy, the dealer had one in stock for $33.25 but I like to support the small business. I had to take out the whole door lock assembly to get enough room to twist the old one out, do this by taking out 3 torx screws with a size T27 bit and unclip the door lock arms with the yellow clips on the lock assembly, then slide it up and around the window channel. I believe it may be possible to do this without taking out the lock, but this is how I did it. I knew it was the driver door because I would open it and the truck would not know it was open, so I avoided the $70 the shop wanted for diagnosis. now I can lock my truck at night with no fear of false alarms and no more annoying beeps as I try to drive down the street and not get road rage.

you do not fix the light. you fix what ever caused the light to come on. so the lenght of time depends on the cause for the light to go on on the first place.

I've had that happen on my 02 moutianeer. I got back in and hit the brake and it went out. You could have one of the sockets on your back lights burning out. THat includes the the top tail light also.

The electric fuel pump is inside the fuel tank

Have vehicle scanned to determine the problem