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Mercury Mystique
The Mercury Mystique was a compact four-door sedan produced by Ford Motor Company. It was a rebadged variant of the Contour, based on Ford’s CDW27 platform, and was available in front-wheel drive layout.
622 Questions
Where is the heater resister on 1997 Mercury Mystique?
The resistor is right near the blower motor. On the passenger side, under the glovebox, remove the underdash cover and you will see it. It is just toward the driver side, held to the heater system by one screw. Its a 1/4" screw.... why not 7mm or 8mm I know not, but there it is., I usually just replace the 'heat fuse' with one from raido shack. That is likely what is wrong with yours too.
That is what is referred to as mooseing. There is a fix for it.
What is the fix?
On my car, it was the 'idle air control motor' mounted between the air cleaner and the fuel injection system. The new part was around $165, total bill with diagnostics was just over $300.
How do you change the timing belt on a 4 cylinder 1998 Mercury Mystique?
Just changed mine. Make sure you have all the tools you need and take your time.1 Disconnect Battery. 2 Unbolt power steering tube (metal tube parallel to belt, held at engine lift 'eye' and beside exhaust manifold)
3 Remove right-hand {timing belt side} mount. (Use of support for engine, optional). 4 Use an offset box-end 13MM to loosen-only 3 water pump pulley bolts 5 Remove valve cover including... -Complete airfilter assembly -Accelerator cable, held by a U-shaped clip...pull up -Remove crankcase breather hose (hose that goes from filter to v.cover) -Cruise cable (I couldn't, I think you have to break the plastic to do it) Didn't get in the way anyways. -Remove Spark Plugs and Wires -In stages, � or full turn increments, loosen v.cover bolts. Remove V.Cover. -Place rags in Plug Holes (if I didn't I'd have the other half of a mouse nest in my cylinder!) 6 Remove Serp Belt -Support right-side of car -Remove the wheel and plastic covers in inner fender. If old belt to be re-used, mark the direction it went, so as to put it back on the right way. -With a 13MM socket, turn the tensioner AWAY or counter-clockwise. If it doens't move it's clockwise.
7 Rotate crank pulley until the 2nd pair of (very small) notches align with the edge of the oil pan mark, and you're at TDC when the "Ford Service Tool 21-162" or a hunk of metal 0.20 Inch thick by 8 inches long and over 1 inch wide slides in the grooves at the other end of the camshafts. If one cam is slighty out, you can use a 1" wrench on the cam (the areas not round) to get the metal strip to fit. - If the slots in the cams are way out rotate the crank 360 Degrees, should fit.
8 Remove Waterpump (WP) pulley and drivebelt Idler Pulley
9 Remove the Crankshaft Pulley. And don't think the metal holding the cams will suffice... As you can see, the dealer or previous owner didn't, and broke my cam, and didn't replace it
Here's how I got it off. -You need a metal tube to put over the socket (as a breaker bar) - A Large Flat Screwdriver - Maybe another person Haynes said to get an assistant to put it in 5th and lay on the Brakes....didn't do anything for my car. So I did this
I've removed the flywheel dust cover. This is exactly where is rests against and hence allows you to do this job by yourself as I did. On Automatics, the only way that I know is remove the starter and wedge a screwdriver in the flywheel as I did. -While you're at it, buy an aftermarket Pulley (aka Underdriven, you can use the same ones foci and cougars use, just make sure they have the key-slot in the centre) 10 Remove the other Timing Belt metal covers. 11 Loosen the Timing Belt Tensioner with a 10MM socket. Then rotate it with an Allen Key inserted in it, clockwise, to the slackest point possible. 12 Replace any worn or damages parts. Belt, Pulleys, Bolts, WP. 13 Place Crank pulley back on and see if your cams are aligned with your marks on the crank pulley. Then remove. 14 "Ford Service tool 15-030A" or a forked tool= steel strip 23.5 long and another 8 in with 3 bolts/nuts/washers with one bolt as the pivot point and the other 2 to rest inside the sprocket, if you need to loosen and retighten the camshaft pulleys (If the cams align but the sprocket doesn't and you need to move just the sprocket by unscrewing the nut holding the sprocket)
15 Install Belt. Start at Crank, then goto tensioner (which is loose). Belt Should slip on, but it WILL be almost a 2 man job. Just put the belt on squarely, not too much on either side, otherwise it won't "slip" on. 16 Tighten Tensioner Pulley with Allan Key and tighten the 10MM bolt. 17 Remove Cam Hold Tool and place Crank pulley on and rotate 2 full turns (720 Degrees) and returning to TDC using the pulley marks. The Cam Hold Tool should slip into place -If only marginally off, use forked tool and adjust the position, with the tensioner taking up slack. Rotate the crank another 720 Deg. And check again. -If off a lot, use forked tool and loosen the cam bolt, making sure you don't lose the position of the belt and sprocket. Using that 1" open wrench, gently turn the cam till it Does fit the Cam Hold Tool. Tighten the Camshaft bolt, making sure you don't lose the position of the belt and sprocket. Remove Cam Hold Tool and rotate 720 Degrees. It better work now. 18 Now all is well... -place cam hold tool back in and tighten the timing belt tensioner bolt to 18 Ft-Lbs -using forked tool to hold the position, checking the camshaft bolts torque Intake-50 Exhaust-88 Ft/Lbs(if necessary) -Remove Cam hold tool and rotate another 720 Degrees and install cam lock one more time! Now reassembly is in reverse.
All TQ Specs Taken from the Haynes Manual (in Ft/Lbs unless stated) V.Cover Bolts- 62 In-Lbs Timing Belt Idler Pulley Bolts- 38 Timing Belt Centre Metal Cover Bolts- 36 Timing Belt Tensioner Bolt- 18 Timing Belt Sprocket to Camshaft Bolts (step 17) 1998- Intake 50 Exhaust 88 1999/00- Intake 50 Exhaust 44 then 89 Waterpump bolts- 89-124 In/Lbs (can't get a TQ wrench in there anyways) Serp Belt Idler Pulley 1998- 35 1999/00- 30 Crankshaft Pulley Bolt- 81-89 Right-Hand Mount -Bracket-to-engine and mount nuts- 61-66 -Mount-to-body bolts- 82
Any Auto Parts store can provide you with this information.
What does code P0171 mean on a 1999 Mercury Mystique?
P0171 is "system lean-bank 1", and means your car's computer is having a hard time keeping the mixture right. Right now, it is adding all the fuel it can and still not making it to the correct ratio. This can be caused by a number of factors, but the most common are vacuum leaks in the intake tract, or a failed Mass Airflow Sensor. A decent diagnositic tech should be able to nail the exact cause down pretty quickly.
How do you replace front coil springs and struts 1986-1995 Taurus - Sable?
The "Related Questions" below tell most of the 'story' for changing front struts on this generation of Taurus.
Fill in the details with a free on-line source of instructions like Autozone's Chilton's Repair Guide.
NOTE: Autozone now requires free registration to access the repair guides. More than worth the extra effort for these photo/illustrated instructions.
The first time I did this one, I 'cheated' with a strut / coil assembly from an auto salvage yard (I was fixing-to-sell) - changing out the coil spring separately isn't the much of a big deal as I learned on later repair jobs. You can also buy new strut/spring assemblies, sometimes referred to as 'ready-mount' or similar.
Detailed Procedures- Before jacking the car up, remove the front axle retainer nut - likely to be 30mm
TIP - I use a good length of pipe to extend my socket wrench in a super breaker-bar for the axle nut and stubborn bolts
- Loosen, but don't remove the nuts holding the top of the strut, up in the engine compartment
- Now it's time to jack up the car and take off the front wheel
NOTE: be safe, use jack stands and wheel chocks!
- Remove the brake caliper - hang it by a wire to keep from stressing the brake hose (don't hang it from the coil spring like "someone else" tried)
- Remove the rotor - if it's stuck, use lots of penetrating oils - heat the center portion - beat the bejeebers out of it with a mallet
- Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle -
NOTE: I used pickle forks for years and always destroyed the rubber grease boot and had to replace many otherwise good tie rods - then I "discovered" the Pittman Arm Puller - way cool!
- Disconnect the stabilizer bar link from the strut - don't forget this is best done with 2 wrenches - a 10mm(?) to hold the stud, and likely a 15mm box wrench for the nut itself
- Control arm to steering knuckle - luckily, for this generation of Taurus/Sable, this is a simple pinch bolt to the control arm / ball joint(!) - Remove the bolt, pry open the steering knuckle where it connects to the ball joint stud.
NOTE: This is where I typically use a length of 2x2 wood for extended leverage to push the control arm down and away from the steering knuckle.
NOTE #2: see "Related Question" for the whole story on the lower control arm.
NOTE #3: For 1996-1999 Taurus / Sable, the lower ball joint is a huge huge pain - See "Related Questions" below for more about that sad story
- With the steering knuckle all loosened up, removing the axle now is a whole lot easier - push it back and out of the hub/bearing - support with hanging wire
- Remove the strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt - (18 and/or 21mm?). Using a small prybar, spread the pinch bolt joint to loosen its grip on the steering knuckle - likely a good size hammer will come in handy to get it to 'slide' off the bottom of the strut.
- Take the top nuts off the strut to free it from the vehicle - hang onto it when taking the last nut off - otherwise your feet will be smashed and hurt by the falling strut! (Experience speaking here...)
- Compressing the coil spring - Follow the instructions of whatever spring compressing tool you have - heed all the warnings and whatever you do, be careful!
- With the spring safely compressed, remove the top nut:
* use a 10mm wrench to hold the strut rod/shaft from turning - and then a 21mm box wrench or crows-foot 'socket' to remove the nut
- NOTE: Before removing the top parts, take note of the alignment or orientation of the top mounting bracket to the body of the strut - there is a front versus backside of the strut. You're gonna want to remember this in a few minutes when you start putting it all back together.
- Loosen the spring compressor tool and remove the top mounting bracket assembly, bearing plate assembly and spring
- Reassembly notes:
* Properly re-align the top mount assembly to the body of the strut so the top mounting bolts lineup with the holes when you put it back in the car.
* Don't let the shaft of the strut turn while putting the nut back on - 2 wrenches just like when you took it off.
* Torque the nut to 40-53 ft lbs
- Install the strut/spring assembly - Don't tighten the 3 top mounting nuts just yet! Leave it hang loose during the assembly process
- Install the steering knuckle onto the strut - a bit of spray lube might help. Lineup the mounting holes in the knuckle and strut.
- Using a new pinch bolt, torque to 73-97 ft lbs
- Install the halfshaft / axle back into the hub
NOTE: double-check the splines of the axle are nice and clean - wire brush any residue off - this will help it slide back into the hub real nice
- Reconnect the lower control arm/ball joint to the bottom of the steering knuckle
NOTE: there's a groove in the ball joint stud that needs to lineup with the pinch bolt opening - probably didn't move far, unless of course you replaced the control arm
NOTE #2: This again is where the chunk of 2x2 or 2x4 comes in handy to get the control arm low enough to maneuver the steering knuckle into place over the ball joint stud.
NOTE #3: An extra pair of hands also helps cut down the cursing and swearing - helps a lot!
- Using a new pinch bolt, torque to 40-53 ft lbs
- Install the stabilizer link to the strut - using a new stabilizer bar link nut, torque to 57-75 ft lbs
- Reconnect the tie rod end - don't forget the cotter pin
* torque for 1986-1994 models: 23-35 ft lbs
* torque for 1995 models: 35-46 ft lbs
- Re-install the rotor - double check that the hub & rotor surfaces that touch are CLEAN - wire brush or emery cloth the surfaces if needed. This will help the next time you take the rotor off, and keep the rotor aligned with the hub - you might even put some anti-seize compound on there
- Put the brake caliper back on
- Don't forget the front wheel
- Torque the 3 top strut mounting bolts to 23-29 ft lbs
- Lower the car back to the ground for the last step...
- Re-install the axle nut and torque to 170-203 ft lbs
NOTE: embarrassing confession - I got sloppy and didn't get the axle fully inserted back into the hub and it ended up loose! (remember the note about cleaning the axle splines?)
Double-check the axle retaining nut torque
This is one of the most extensive front suspension jobs you can do - so go treat yourself to a large pitcher of "adult beverage" in celebration!!!!
AnswerThis is one operation that I strongly do not recommend you NOT DIY, unless you know exactly what you are doing. The strut assembly has to be disassembled to replace the struts, and the springs on a strut that have to be released are strong enough to hold up the front end of a car, and are under a tremendous amount of tension. If you do not have the right tools and know-how, you can be seriously injured or killed doing it. I have the right tools and have been doing it for 20 years, and I am still fearful everytime I do it. It's dangerous. A loaded strut assembly is like holding a stick of TNT. If you still want to DIY, go invest $20 in a repair manual and use the loaner tool program at your local auto parts store. Also when you get the tools have the counter guy show you how to use the strut spring compressors. The specifics of doing this job are too involved to say here but here is a rough outline: raise the front end of the car by the frame, remove the wheels, unbolt the lower control arm from the bottom of the strut assembly. Disconnect any wires or lines from the assembly. Remove the three 13mm nuts on the top of the strut tower under the hood holding the assembly in (DO NOT REMOVE THE BIG NUT IN THE MIDDLE!), and lower the whole assembly out through the wheel well. Now here is the fun part. Instal the strut spring compressors on the assembly and compress the spring. When you remove the big nut in the middle of the assembly at the top, aim both ends of the strut in a harmless direction, AND I MEAN IT! If the compressors slip, that thing is going to go off like a cannon. If your head is in the way, your head is coming off too! At ths point, reassembly is self-explanatory. After you are done, the car has to get a front end alignment.How do you change a Slave cylinder mercury mystique?
What could be wrong with your tail lights if the fuses are good?
Bad bulbs ?- they are double filamented with the larger being for the tailights Bad switch?
How do you reset the wrench light on your 2000 Mercury Cougar?
Press the select button and the unit button at the same time for four seconds. The answer is in your ford manual that came with the car.
Where is the transmission fluid located on a '95 Mercury Mystique?
For the automatic transmission only, the dipstick for the transmission fluid is located on the driver side of the engine near the power brake booster. It is low in the engine bay so you may get your arm/hand dirty when checking the fluid level. Follow the proceedure in your manual to get an accurate reading.
I've owned 3 of these cars with the auto trans & have found that they require aggressive maintenance to prevent potential problems. The CD4E transmission is known to have overheating & wear issues. I perform a 4 quart drain & fill with every other oil change to keep the fluid clean & the tranny in top shape. Each of my cars has well over 100k miles without serious problems.
Answertransmission fluid is located in the transmissionMercury Mystique Power window fuse color and number?
On a 1998 Mercury Mystique ( for example )
In the passenger compartment fuse panel :
Fuse # 21 is an orange colored 40 amp fuse for the power windows
What does diagnosis code P0301 mean for a 1996 Mercury Mystique?
Trouble code P0301 means: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
Why is check engine light on and can you do damage driving the car I own a 1999 mercury mystique?
The light is on because the ECU has detected a problem with the emission's system. Can it do damage to continue driving the car? Not likely if it appears to be running ok. But there is always that possibility. Have the computer scanned with an OBD2 scan tool. The code it retrieves will tell you what part is being effected. Not necessarily what part is bad, but which part is being effected.
How to turn off check engine light on a 1996 mercury mystique?
The 1996 Mystique has OBDII (On Board Diagnostics Level 2) and requires a command from a "code reader" or OBDII monitor. It can also be shut off by disconnecting the battery for a long enough period of time, apparently - but I have an Auto XRay unit, so I just use that. If the cause is not repaired, the CEL WILL come back on.
Where us the transmission on a mercury mystique located?
The transmission ( or transaxle on your front wheel drive Mercury Mystique )
is in the engine compartment bolted to the engine ( on the drivers side of
the engine )
Are there two parts to the radio antenna wire on a 99 Mercury Cougar?
No there is only one wire for the radio antenna unless you have an extension on it or after market part . But then again I'm not sure if i know what your trying to ask . But that's the best i can do for you with the info I'm getting !
How do you repair an alternator on 98 Mercury Mystique?
1. Put the front of the car on jackstands and dis-connect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove passenger side wheel and lower splash guards. Using low profile 3/8" socket wrench or breaker bar, remove the serpentine belt from the alternator pulley.
3. Dis-connect the passenger side tie rod from the knuckle.
4. remove the driver side wheel.
5. Get 3 or 4 feet of extensions for your 3/8 socket wrench and feed them through the driver side wheel well to the upper bolt of the alternator. Yo may need to secure the socket & extensions on the bolt from up top then get back down to the driver wheel well, but it's worth the few seconds. Remove the upper bolt.
6. From below the car, loosen the lower bolt, but do not remove.
7. There is a small bracket on the alternator between mounting bolts. Remove the 10mm bolt that secures the bracket to the block.
8. From above, pry the upper tab from the mounting bracket.
9. Below the car, hold the alternator while removing the lower bolt.
10. Dis-connect the electrical to the Alternator.
11. Maneuver the alternator out through the passenger side wheel well. Takes a little thinking, but it'll come out.
12. Transfer the small bracket to the new alternator.
13. Feed the alternator in through the passenger side and make electrical connections.
14. Secure the lower alternator tab and hand tighten the lower bolt.
15. Pivot the alternator up. The upper tab may not easily fit into place. Tighten the 10mm bolt in the center bracket to the block. This will press the upper tab into place.
16. Install the upper bolt and hand tighten. Fully tighten the lower bolt now.
17. Use extensions from the driver wheel well to tighten the upper bolt.
Remainder of this project is simple re-assembly. An experienced shade tree mechanic can do this alternator R&R in under an hour after his tools are set out.
Are the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique the same car?
Basically, yes. The Mystique was simply a re-badged Contour with a little bit more "luxury" trim. All major components (engines, transmissions, suspension, etc.) were the same.
How do you fix the flashers for the turn signals on a 1996 Mercury Mystique?
: I just changed three fuses in my '97 Mercury Sable... the turn signal fuse, the hazard flasher fuse, and another "autolamp" fuse. None of the three corrected the problem I was having. (turn signals and hazard flashers are not working at all.) I am now trying to replace the electronic flasher, but have not found where to install it. : In any case, the fuses for the turn signals and hazard flashers are not actually very expensive, so you might want to try that first. I bought a variety pack for less than $5. Also, if you look under the cover of the fuse box under your dash, there may be spares so you wouldn't even have to purchase new ones.
How do you remove a stuck on brake rotor on a 1998 Ford Contour?
your goin to need a BFH and a torch end of story. lol yea right ull prolly be there a while beating and heating
How do you program the garage door opener switch located on the visor on a 2008 Mercury Milan?
This information can be found in your owner's manual. If not call the toll free telephone # listed in your owner's manual for help.
Will the headlights from a 2000 cougar fit on a 2001 cougar?
yes. they should. its the 99 that seems to be the odd man out.
How do you replace broken temp gauge on a 96 Mercury Mystique?
You sure it is the gauge that is broke? I bet it is the sending unit.
