Mitsubishi Galant

if it is a sohc you have two connectors,the small two wire one is power in, the 6 pin connectore controls the power transister.colors of wires would not really be important unless harness cut or something.looked on schematic too does not shoe colors of wires. sorry.

I have a 2010 mitsubishi galant i have to push the gas to start the car what's wrong

Open your trunk and find the wires that go to the bulb over the license plate. Twist the base to remove the light.

It's not too difficult: First you will need remove the back seats entirely. Start w/ the lower part of seat.(the part of set you sit on) If you feel around under the front edge of seat you find 2 plastic pull tabs. There is one on each side of the seat. Pull the tabs forward one at a time and it will release the bottom back seat. Now to remove the upper back seat. You see 4 bolts 2 on each side and 2 in the middle. Remove these bolts (& put in safe place). Now to get the back upper seat out, you need to lift from the bottom of the seat up. Do this on each side and in the middle. There are 'hooks' behind the seat that hold it in place. Once you've freed the upper part of the back seat, you'll need to feed the seat belts around the seat as you remove it and it should just pull right on out. If you do not have the factory spoiler, then you'll you also need to remove the third tail light. To do this you'll find 2 bolts holding the third tail in place in the upper mid section of the truck. You kind of need to almoost get part way in the trunk facing up to see what I'm taking about. (not a comfortable position!) You'll then need to just twist out the bulb and it's wiring harness. It's kind of 'keyed' similar to replacing a turn signal bulb. You're almost there. Last thing to do is to remove the rear deck lid. You'll need to remove the 3 bolts and bolt covers in the middle front of the rear deck lid. The bolt covers snap open, and you'll see the bolts. Once that's done carefully pull the deck lid out. Once out, you'll see the speakers. They are standard 6X9 speaker housing and bolt pattern, so most any aftermarket speakers will fit in nicely. Some modification will have to done to the existing factory speaker wires. You'll have to cut off the Mitz. wire harness 'clip' and then manually connect + & - leads from the stock wires to the wires on your new speakers. I really wish I could show some pictures because it's alot easier than it sounds! Hope this gets you going. I put some Sony Explode series 4 way 6x9's in the rear and 4way 5 1/4" door speakers (had to make some modifications on the door speakers) A Sony Head unit, Pioneer 760W trunk mounted amp, and 2 JBL 10" diaganolly apposed custom sub. cabinet w/ plexi-glass window in front. It not only sounds great, but looks really nice too. Good luck!! darksidesteve

YES

There are three major components in the EGR circuit. First: the EGR valve itself, Second: the Back Pressure Transducer, Third: The EGR Solenoid Valve.

First one should check to see if the ports going from the EGR valve to the exhaust and then to the throttle body/manifold are clear of carbon. Often these ports will fill with carbon and therefore restrict the flow rate from the EGR valve. Once these have been cleaned, you then need to clear the DTC codes and run the drive cycle to reset the computer. If the Check Engine light comes back on and the DTC code re-appears, then you should check the EGR valve itself, this can be done with a simple hand held vacuum pump by connecting the pump to the vacuum port on the valve and with the engine at idle, apply vacuum to the valve. Usually, the engine will "falter" or "sputter" at idle when the valve opens. If this doesn't happen and you don't observe the valve opening, then it is bad and should be replaced. This test is also pretty good in checking those ports mentioned earlier, if the enging does perform as mentioned at idle when the valve is activated with the vacuum pump, the ports are probably ok. The second part to look at tis the back pressure transducer, this is usually a small round device to which the vacuum line from the EGR valve is attached, or often there is a "T" or "Y" fitting with one side going to this tranducer and the other to the EGR valve. You should check this valve to see if it is allowing vacuum thru it, if in doubt replace it. The third item is the EGR solenoid and it will have a vaccum line from it to the EGR valve (or to the "T" or "Y" connecter mentioned before) and a vacuum line to a vacuum port usually found on the throttle body. To test this device, first see if it is getting 12 V to one side of the coil and then make sure the coil is being grounded by the computer when the engine is revved up to around 3000 rpm. If you aren't sure, remove the solenoid, apply a 12 volt DC source to the coil and ground the other coil terminal. You should feel or hear a "click" when you apply the 12 volts, then you should be able to have low pressure air or vacuum flow through the solenoid. If you don't feel or hear the "click" or you can't get any flow through the solenoid, replace it. About 90% of the time one of these will fix the problem of the P0400 code or EGR Flow Malfunction.

Hope this is of some help, Randy A.

The throttle position sensor can be tested by moving the throttle as observing the engine's response. If it is smooth and consistent, the sensor is functioning properly.

The thing you should never do is put 100% water. You can buy the 100 percent antifreeze(the green color kind) and just mix it yourself. You shouldn't put 100% antifreeze either, depending on where you live and the usual temperature you drive through. For a more colder area, you would put more antifreeze than water and hot places about 50/50 antifreeze/water.

6.5 front

6x9 rear

with a punch and a hammer

Most reputable stores (wal-mart, k-mart, etc) have product "finders" aachd to their shelves to research their products. Any auto parts store will find it in ther computer catalog system.

Don't understand why people use this site for matters as this!

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it probably stopped working because its probably old. You probably have to buy a new one

It could very easily be the switch. Window motors work by reversing the polarity to go up and down. If the motor worked going down, it should work coming up. Motors tend to be all or nothing. With the door panel off, you can unplug the motor and power it with jumper wires to see if it works both ways. If it does, it is most likely the master switch not the one in that door.

50/50 my friend u should have 50% water and 50% coolant the reason for this is cuz water boils at a lower temp then anti-frezze mixing 50/50 will save your life wen it comes to a car if u fill with just water u have to look at the facts what dose water do to metal? it rust's anti-frezze has a anti rust mix in it to keep it from rusting.

so after filling it with 50/50 start your car and run it for 5 minutes with your radiator cap off keep adding till it stops going down

What?!

Until full!

Start the vhicle, run for 10 inutes to enable the thermostat to open and the coolant to flow. Add the proper mix of coolant to fill the radiator to the bottom of the neck. The system will be sufficienty full.

The Front ECU is a green box (In lancers anyway) in the fuse box. The Front ECU contains relays that control headlights, taillights, turn signals maybe more, i dont no everything it does. There are 5 or 6 relays inside, along with a circuit board. Hope that helps

You can remove your 1993 Mitsubishi alternator belt by loosening the tensioner pulley. Slide the tensioner pulley to the right. The alternator belt will become loose and can be removed. Reverse the process to put the new alternator belt on.

10W-30 is the preferred oil, but if you live in a cold climate region, you may want to put in 5W-30. The 5W-30 will be easier on your engine when it's very cold (like below freezing) I would also recommend using synthetic oil vs. standard oil. It WILL definitely prolong the life of your engine, you won't be prone to engine sludge, you won't have to change your oil every 3000 miles (more like every 6000-7500 miles) and it's not near as hard on you engine during cold starts. The synthetic motor oils always leave a small coating around your engine components unlike standard motor oil that just drains into the oil pan when your engine is shut off. Synthetics are more expensive and I would go with Mobile 1 or Castrol pure synthetic. You can always buy your own motor oil & filter and take it into the garage of your choice to have the labor done. That will save you some money. Instead of 25-30$ for an oil change (if the shop supplies the oil and filter) most places will charge 60-75$ for the synthetic, that's why buying your own oil and filter will save you money and most places should be fine with that. (that's what I do!!!) You can also change from regular motor oil to synthetic at ANY time, even if you already have over 100K miles on your car. But you cannot switch back and forth once you go synthetic and you should use the same brand as well.

Most likely it is coming in throgh the trunk seal. On a dry day wash your car and then open the trunk and see if the trunk seal is wet and there is a trail of water entering the trunk

The check engine light on new cars covers so many different components, there is no way to know until you hook up an OBD I capable scan tool.

24 valve 2.0 litre

Alternator is below the power steering pump, halfway down the front of the engine, on the driver's side. It is a metal "cage" deal which is mounted to the engine block. To replace, you have to slacken the serpentine belt via the tensioner on the alternator, then remove the mounting bolts. This should be done from below the car, with the car on a jack or stands. Installation is reverse of removal. The driver's front fender liner will get in the way of the long bolt. I simply snipped some of the plastic away around where the bolt exits, as it isn't necessary.

Checked mine. It is on the driver's side under dash to the right of the steering wheel, in the corner where the dash meets the center console. You just about have to stand on your head to see it, and use a good flashlight.

i don't know, take to a garage or get a new car. why are you posting this question on here. surley it would be easier yo take it to a garage

wow, what a helpful answer, NOT.

There are a few things you can check even if you are not a mechanic circulation and pressure is the key to keeping a cooling system working properly. new thermostat, good, check your radiator cap, make sure the seal is not torn swollen or missing, look under the car and see if you have a leak. a leak can cause overheating quickly. start the car and when the temp shows just above half way the radiator fan should kick in. if the fan does not come on check all your fuses. anything much more than that you will probably need a shop. just thinking tho, i had a Toyota that had a clogged radiator, how i found out was when it got up to the hot mark i put my hand in the center of the radiator and it was much cooler at the bottom than at the top. but keep in mind that is VERY dangerous on that car because of the automatic fan, so if you decide to check that hold the fan with something and be careful.. with some luck you will find it without taking it to a shop.

A timing chain is designed to last the lifetime of the engine.

Any Diamond ATF and Hyundai ATF as well - for 3rd party ATF - you can use Amsoil, Redline and most common Synthetic ATF - Mobil 1 = Visit their website for details.

It is important to know the firing order of a car being driven. The 2000 Mitsubishi Galant engine firing order is 1-3-4-2.