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Mufflers and Tailpipes
Mufflers and tailpipes are components of an exhaust system. The tailpipes guide the exhaust away from the engine and into the muffler. The muffler reduces the noise coming from the engine through the tailpipe.
1,581 Questions
How does tire pressure affect a car's fuel efficiency?
If your tires are under inflated the resulting "resistance" created will lower your gas mileage. However, if you maintain the correct pressure in your tires it reduces the resistance and improves your car's efficiency. It's also safer.
What causes gasoline in the crankcase?
possible faulty pcv valve.or bad rings if you detect smoke
if you have a Manuel gas pump on the side of your engine it would be the first thing i would change
How do you remove the threading from the pipe if it broke off?
There is an internal pipe wrench that goes inside the pipe and expands as you turn it and it turns out the broken piece. You should be able to get the tool at a hardware store.
Why are there 2 inline cats on a single exhaust pipe?
are you sure they are both cats. some exhaust systems have a resonator after the catylitic converter to help with sound deadening
What can cause white smoke from the exhaust?
- It often means that you are burning antifreeze. You asked if it needs antifreeze, have you noticed any leaking out of the reservoir tank while you are running it? Sometimes when the head gasket goes it will produce a passage for the antifreeze to pass from the capillaries into the combustion chamber. It is easy to check if you have an air compressor. Remove one of the rear sparkplugs and the radiator cap. Fill the radiator and then push some air into the sparkplug hole (get a good seal in case a valve is open). Repeat with all the cylinders and watch for air bubbles coming up into the radiator. If bubbles come up or fluid is pumped out, the head gasket is blown and must be replaced. It is more likely to happen at the back of the engine because it is farthest away from the fan and therefore gets less cooling. Also check your oil for discoloration. If it is a brownish color it could mean your oil and antifreeze are mixing and has the potential to damage your bearings.
- If the exhaust billows white smoke for a few seconds when first starting the engine after it has been sitting for a while, such as overnight, and then runs normally, it could mean that the rubber valve stem seals have perished - especially if the vehicle is a few years old and has done over 60/70,000 miles. Another clue is: does the exhaust smoke smell like fresh, rather than burnt oil.
- After going nuts trying to figure out sporadic tailpipe smoke on my Nissan Maxima, with no other negative engine symptoms, I eventually stumbled upon a malfunctioning PCV valve. The ball-check wasn't fully seating, allowing small amounts of oil to sneak past and into the combustion chamber. A cheap and easy fix.
- White smoke or semi white can be produced in several ways. One way is oil this is normally a whitish blue to blue smoke and has the apparent smell of oil being burned. Next could be antifreeze when it is being burned it has a sweet type of smell and tends to dissipate in the air rather quickly. Next is automatic transmission fluid which is normally found on automatic transmissions and its normally drawn into an engine thru a vacuum line via a defective transmission modulator valve or some other defective part. Transmission fluid is very apparent and billows out so bad that you can't see anything behind you. Last but not least another type of smoke that is not white but black is the presents of to much gas/fuel being burned in the engine. PS the one good thing about transmission fluid being burned is it is an excellent way to clean the carbon out of an engine.
- Black smoke is burning oil. Blue smoke is usually transmission fluid due to a leaking modulator valve in the older auto transmission. White smoke is due to water getting in to a cylinder from a bad gasket, cracked block or a cracked head. cracked heads. Mine started misfiring, with new plugs. Smoke came out the exhaust. Result, low compression in the cracked head. When car was cold it ran fine. After it got hot, the crack in the head would open up, hence, sputtering. I've had to replace 3 heads. Everytime I've had to have this done, I had to buy a whole new head gasket.
- After extensive research I came to the conclusion that TOO much oil is also a main culprit for white smoke out of the exaust.
- I changed the PVC valve, the breather and the air filter and it's good as new.
- There are a lot of incorrect answers here... but for the most part, you can hold true to these: Blue smoke is primarily from internal engine wear. If it's constant when the engine is on, then the rings etc are worn and need to be replaced. If it only is blue when the engine is cold or first started, the rings are worn but not gone completely. You get the oil seeping during the night and it burns off when the car is started in the morning. Black smoke is a fuel/air mixture suggestion problems with injection or carburation. Cause of black smoke is due to running rich in the fuel air mix. White smoke can and DOES come from coolant burn off in the oil due to a leaking or blown head gasket, cracked head etc. If you aren't sure or you don't know what you're talking about, don't advise. Wrong advice can be more damaging than the actual problem.
- White smoke is caused by engine coolant/Antifreeze being processed in the combustion chamber(s) of the engine.....ie burning, melting, frying, whatever....Period....I'll explain further.... This is automotive chemistry 101....Oil of any automotive type burns blue.....too much fuel issues burn black not enough fuel issues burn grey on a cold day you may see what appears to be white smoke from the exhaust that will disappear after the vehicles engine has warmed up to it's normal operating temp.. This is a normal reaction called condensation... condensation is the result of a small amount of water/dew being drawn into the exhaust usually collecting in the muffler and/or the catalytic converter and is caused by our friend mother nature..... like when you see your breath on a cold day...
- I am a highly experienced ASE certified automotive repair tech. I have over 16 years of diagnostics and repairs to my credit..I have made a very good living in the automotive business by being precise with my diagnostic procedures....I have worked for 3 of the largest rental vehicle companies in the country.... I have diagnosed and repaired an estimated 200 vehicles to date with the white smoke issue... every vehicle that i mentioned had engine coolant/antifreeze entering one of the combustion chambers in the engine... Most of these vehicles had a damaged head gasket(s).. the most common causes of this issue that i have detected over the years are due to improper maintenance of the engine cooling system, severe overheating of the engine, improper tightening of the cylinder head(s) during an engine overhaul,or some other type of repairs that required the head to be removed and also defects in manufacturing of the gasket or the engine... i have seen evidence of careless repair techs that have scratched or cut the surface of a replacement head gasket with either a tool or the cylinder head during the install process.. sometimes it will never cause an issue but it can... i am very careful when dealing with any gaskets but especially head gaskets due to the amount of work involved in replacing one on some vehicles.. bottom line, I'm not fond of doing the job twice so I'm careful the first time... I have seen improper cylinder head or engine block servicing techniques cause failure of the gasket(s) these types of failures are generally caused by improper cleaning of the gasket surface of the engine block and/or the gasket surface of the head.. i have also repaired or replaced cracked heads and in extreme scenarios i have replaced cracked blocks and severely overheated engines with a new or re-manufactured engine due to such severe damage to the internal engine components or block .. There are a mix of correct and incorrect answers to your concerns by the participants that have replied.. I can assure you that almost every well trained tech will answer your questions as i have.. I'm not saying I'm an automotive god, I am just proud of the priceless knowledge that i have acquired...FYI, I'm a graduate of Denver Automotive and Diesel College in Denver Colorado.... DADC is one of only two Automotive Technology colleges in the country with the intense hands-on and classroom teaching practices to properly train a truly, highly skilled automotive/diesel tech who can easily handle any diagnosis and proper repairs of yesteryears and today's automobile technology....
- White smoke CAN be caused from oil....I have fast-road engined 1987 Golf Mk II. If I boot it hard on tight corners, roundabouts, etc, it can cause oil surge in the engine and some oil can 'slop' into a cylinder. The James Bond style smokescreen it produces can be very exciting for drivers behind me!
- Lots of good answers; I just want to see if I can clarify from my experience. SMELL!! Good mechanics without great diagnostic tools learn to SMELL. "Burning" (yes, technically it's boiling, not burning) Antifreeze smells 100% different than burning OIL. Let your nose be your guide. The Antifreeze will have a sweet sort of smell--hey--kinda like antifreeze smells, and it will make your eyes tear up and your throat lungs will tell you to get out of that toxic fog right away. Also--the timing. Yes, when forming a good question, you need to give GOOD DETAILS. Does it ALWAYS burn white? Just at startup? Only when hot? Etc. DESCRIBE, DESCRIBE, DESCRIBE!!! A head gasket problem is ALWAYS there and it only gets worse under pressure/acceleration/load. It will go from a little cloud to it's own weather system when you stomp on the gas.
- OVERFILLING THE OIL will produce this white burned smoke too. Yes, it will SMELL different. IT will also usually go away after some driving. CHECK THE DIPSTICK, it's obvious, but do it--do it right. Flat surface; cold engine. Pull--Wipe it off--put it in--now you are getting the real level. Oil burning will be at startup from worn valve rings/seals and during driving from overfilling at first a lot, then only at heavy acceleration/g forces when demand is high. Again--smell, check all your fluid levels (OIL, WATER, TRANS) of course, whatever is low is what you are BURINING (or for the one gent that gets particular, boiling). ALWAYS Start w the simplest thing or the cheapest. Did you just change the oil and it started--overfilling, etc. Yes, it won't hurt to check the PCV valve and tubing. Really, check all you can check.
- My problem with white smoke was whenever I would be going down the road at high RPM and let off the trottle. Then it was like a smoke bomb went off. Bottom Line.......... My Vacuum Modulator went bad on my transmission whenever high vacuum was created it was sucking transmission fluid into my intake manifold and thus into my combustion chamber creating white smoke. Replaced the modulator for $12 and everything is right with the world
- i had the exact problem with my Mazda down to a T. All we had to do was buy a bottle of engine sealant... it takes a full day to run thru so follow directions exactly. Now the car has no problems... full power is bacl no more "smoke bombs" and no more dying at strange times.
- Steam or smoke is the question here. If its steam some considerations are what year is the vehicle newer catalytic converted cars emit steam and water from the exhaust and you should be cautious about the blown head gasket or cracked head syndrome, if you suspect a blown head gasket or cracked head go to a reputable shop that can confirm exhaust gasses in the coolant. You will notice a low coolant level and a peanut butter looking substance on the oil cap (possible traces of water and coolant in the oil but generally engine pressures will prevent this. Be prepared for the worst and hope for the best. If it is smoke a thick white smoke it could be transmission fluid being pulled up through a vacuum line to the intake manifold and being burned, this was quite common on older Ford and Chrysler vehicles that had a vacuum shift solenoid and an automatic transmission.
- Has your car severely overheated recently? Does the smoke smell like antifreeze? If it does, you probably have a blown head gasket. The "smoke" in this case is actually steam from water leaking into the cylinders. Also check for yellow or white goo on the oil cap and dipstick, indicating water leaks to the oil.
- Your symptoms are indicating a possible head gasket problem. You have water going into the combustion chamber and coming out the back tailpipe as steam. You may also have exhaust gas in the water which can also be checked by a mechanic. Be prepared for the expense of a head gasket or possible engine replacement.
- If it is not happening all of the time at operating temperature (head gasket as mentioned before) and it occurs just at startup. It may be that due to heavy moisture in the air, dew, a heavy rain, will build up moisture in your exhaust system. At initial startup until the vehicle is warmed up and run for a bit, you may see thick white smoke.
- I had an old engine that sucked oil through an intake valve when the engine went fast enough. If you burn enough oil it looks white. Especially in Michigan on a cold morning.
- I had this problem with my '96 Ram after an overheat. A cracked head gasket was allowing antifreeze to get into the combustion chamber and creating all kinds of white 'sweet smelling' smoke.
- White "smoke" in cold weather is just steam. When gasoline ignites it produces quite a bit of heat and expands to several times the original size, creating high pressure on the piston. That pressure causes the piston to move down, turning the crankshaft which makes the car go. When the fuel ignites it causes a sudden and violent chemical reaction between the the oxygen in the air and gasoline (which is a long chemical molecular chain of carbon and hydrogen) resulting in carbon dioxide and water vapor. As the water vapor cools in the exhaust pipe it starts to form small droplets that are visible in the form of steam vapor. That's the white smoke. Once the exhaust pipe warms up sufficiently, the exhaust leaving the pipe is still hot enough that the water vapor hasn't formed the droplets and dissipates quickly enough that you don't see the vapor. On the other hand, if it's light blue or blue-grey smoke and it doesn't stop when the exhaust pipe warms up, that's oil vapor and a sign of bad rings and/or valve stem seals.
- white smoke is usually caused by condensation in the combustion chambers. This will usually dissipate once the car has warmed up. If it persists there could be difficulties with: Problem: Solution: Moisture in fuel Apply one cap full of Methylated spirits to fuel tank (This is quiter safe by the way, it dissipates water) Head gasket leak Replace head gasket, approx $500 AUS (other symptoms such high temperature will also be prevailent.) Failing these two suggestions, there is a slight chance of moisture in the oil sump. this is rare if the head gasket is ok. Simply check your oil level, if the oil looks milky, there's the problem. Also if it is milky, replace the head gasket.
What cause slug and white smoke out of tailpipe?
White smoke from the exhaust is a symptom of coolant entering the combustion chamber. This is normally caused by a blown head gasket or a cracked head. Stop driving the car immediately as severe engine damage will occur if you continue to run this engine. I have no idea what you mean by the term "slug".
What causes the check engine light to come on in your 2000 civic Si?
Could be many things. The ECU will put out a certain signal for what is triggering the light. To read this signal you can buy a reader or most autoparts stores will do it for free. Problem with the Emissions system. The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSIONS of the vehicle.. Don't let it bother you as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say a small percentage of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have multiple computers aside from the powertain computer) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they are different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests or
How do you replace the muffler on a 1989 Camaro RS and how difficult is it to do?
to change the muffler is really easy as long as u don't have to much rust unger it. all u need to do is take off the clamp that comes from the exhaust pipe and then the one clamp on the other side on the tail pipe. which is easier if u take it right off from the car and put back on later then if the rust isn't to bad the pipe would slide right out of the muffle. leaving u to put on a new one
pistons are worped
What causes steam to come from the tailpipe?
Trouble with PEP BOYS?, I 'm so surprized. Sorry for the sarcasm, but you can find a happy medium between the Dollar happy dealer and the quota concious chain stores. They are called "Independent repair shops". Find one that will accept your warranty and let them handle the car. I sounds like you have several unrelated problems. Let's take them one at a time: Brake shoes: I don't know where your at with that-need more info. Running hot: You need to have the computer scanned for codes to see if there is a "rock to grab onto while your scaling up the mountain" If it yields no information, I would recommend a chemical test of the cooling system that would show if exhaust smoke is entering you cooling system. If the head or head gasket is bad, this test usually will confirm this. It would explain the steam from the tail pipe. However, The gasket or head may not only be an addition problem but may also be a symptom of another problem. A head gasket or cracked head is commonly caused by overheating, Overheating is caused by many things. Is there a coolant leak? Is the a sensor that is giving the computer bad info, Is there a cooling fan not working, Is there a obstruction is the cooling system? Is there weak coolant or too concentrated coolant? Need to find someone you can have confidence in. Talk to someone that is happy with their independent garage and let them have at it. You need someone that can communicate well. This is important to you understanding what is happening. Hearing a bump: I'm not exactly sure what you mean. I can fell a bump, but I can't hear a bump. I would be willing to bet that your right rear spring is broke. Don't be surprized when the warranty company only wants to pay for one. You should do both sides and replace the struts at the same time. You can get lifetime warrantied parts through a independent garage. Dealer is 12,000 miles/12 monthe warranty only. Lastly, the brake pedal clicking: Need to stick your head under the dash and press the pedal with your hand. Feeling around for the vibration when it clicks to determine the source. Let me know how you make out on all of these issues, Thanks, Paul
Depends on the dealer. My dealer wouldn't care, but other Harley Dealers might. But to answer your question yes it probably would void your warranty. Also remember if you do a stage one or even a big bore kit that also voids it too.
Actually if the stage one kit or big bore kit the warranty stay intact AS LONG AS a harley dealer service department installs it, any factory accessory keeps warranty intact
Where does the Halloween celebration come fromthe Celtic fire fetival?
the Great Fire Festival at Samhain in Celtic Ireland
Oil return lines from head may be partially plugged and oil runs down into cylinder over night - it is burned on start-up
What cause white smoke to come out the exhaust?
This is caused by water, antifreeze, or water coolant entering your block or you may have a blown out head gasket, or worse cracked block.
The answer is definitely to do with water in the exhaust pipe - If the white smoke appears primarily in the morning and you live in a high humidity climate, the answer may be as simple as - it is just condensation that has naturally collected on the inside of the exhaust system overnight and is being vaporised by the hot exhaust gasses (steam).
If not, then you will probably find that the coolant may be leaking into the exhaust system via the engine - check the coolant level to see if it has dropped and needs refilling! If it does, you will need to seek advise to correctly diagnose where the exact problem lies (The Cylinder-head gasket is the usual suspect).
Unless you have recently driven through a very deep puddle, these are about the only two answers available!
Will it hurt your 150cc scooter to run it without a muffler?
you may burn up the exhaust valve.i would not do it.
How a dealer can deliver the car in more efficient manner?
Preparation is key. A Motor Vehicle is the 2nd biggest purchase that we make after property, and as such is an important decision for the buyer, whether the vehicle is new or used.
This brings a whole load of emotions to the table for the buyer, including fear, doubt, excitement and financial commitments.
It is therefore paramount that an individual within the Dealership takes control , and full responsibility , for both the customer and the vehicle that they have purchased from start to finish.
Once a customer walks onto a forecourt, problems can be made just as easily as they can be solved from the moment contact is made with them.
Realisation that effectively the delivery process can begin even before a sale is agreed, is an important factor in delivering customer service and satisfaction as well as the car.
(1) THE SALES PROCESS
Qualification;
If somebody comes onto the forecourt looking for a black diesel 5 door estate, and you have none in stock, qualify why they feel that this is their requirement.
A hard sell on a green diesel mini instead may be achievable ,but are you kidding yourself as well as the customer?
They might only want a diesel because they perceive a saving in running costs, whereas in truth they are only covering 8000miles a year so a petrol model would actually save them money altogether, and you have a black petrol 5 door estate in stock to show them!
Spending time qualifying the customer at this stage , getting to know them and their requirements will eliminate potential attempts to cancel the sale later down the line on the route to delivery.
Vehicle condition;
False promises are all too often made, and needlessly so, in order to secure a sale in the first place.
Eg : (a)Agreeing to paint a small scratch on a 12 month old car is fine, if you intend to do it, do it well, and do it IN TIME for the agreed collection date.
Quite often, an element of transparency goes a lot further , and allows the process to run more smoothly by minimising 3rd party ( paint repair technician) requirements.
Ie:(b) there is a small scratch on the car yes, but it is 12 months old and $6000 cheaper than a new one don't forget, and we wouldn't recommend aftermarket paint for such a small cosmetical mark.
Both can result in a sale, the 2nd method eliminates potential problems on the path to handover / delivery by not being accountable for the reliability and work quality of a 3rd party contractor.
The same theory can be applied across the board to other condition and maintenance issues, but clarity is the
The sale;
Whoop! You've sold a car , taken a deposit and put a sold sticker on it!
Don't let them go yet though!!
Close as many doors as you can whilst the customer is still in front of you and the iron is still hot.
(a) agree a delivery date
The sooner the better, but if you have agreed to paint the scratch, 2pm tomorrow is no good if the paint technician can't come until 1.30pm. Is the car taxed? Do you need any proof of insurance from the customer before delivery? Do you need to call a finance company for details of outstanding finance on their current car? A.O.B. ? Make the calls now , or get the customer to make the calls now, chasing red tape later will create friction, problems and delivery delays.
(b) get a contact number for work and home, and give them your direct line also.
Ongoing communications are essential, if these break down, the receptionist forgets to pass you a message or you cannot contact your customer, friction will again be created before a smooth delivery has been completed.
(2) the delivery process
If you have handled the sales process correctly, this should now be a formality.
Keep a track on the vehicles progress throughout any workshop preparations , valeting requirements and taxation requirements WELL IN ADVANCE of the customer due to collect the vehicle.
If you do have to call to delay collection, (let's say it's that scratch AGAIN! and the paint technician is Unwell) end the call on a positive point eg I forgot to ask what your favourite radio stations are so I can programme them in ready for you.....
Finally, have the vehicle clean and ready in a prominant position for collection. Your customer will have been excited all day at the thought of collecting their new pride and joy, make it the first thing they see when they pull up to the forecourt, and if you have taken control of all the other points in advance.....wave off another HAPPY CUSTOMER!
white smoke usually means coolant is getting into the cylinders - check your oil to see if it overfull and or milky this bad news and can mean head gasket replacement or other major repair
What is the advantage of having an ipod?
noting really its just an mp3 player but you can say look at me i have an ipod like almost everyone else
Does it hurt an engine to run it with no exhaust muffler?
It does not hurt an engine to run it with no exhaust muffler
The temperature at which Aluminum melts is 1220° F. The exhaust manifold could easily reach 800° F. Further down the line where most mufflers are located, is between 100-300° F. Aluminum would definitely stand up to those temperatures, however the challenge is going to be attempting to weld Aluminum, to mild or stainless steel because they two metals don't mesh. There are different methods which make this union possible, but they are not something a hobbyist should attempt, seek professional advice on that one. I would suggest using an exhaust cut out instead.
Why would a car burn oil when it does not leak or blow blue smoke?
More details would be helpful. However if your car is using too much oil it has to be either going on the ground or thru the engine. Please try to clarify and give more details for instance how much oil is it using? Has the car sit for a long time? Is there any sign of oil on the engine itself? Is there any signs of oil underneath the car look well at the underside of the floor board? , EzForJesus
It could be that the piston rings have rubbed the side of the cylinder and caused wear ,you may have to have the engine rebuilt. You can't always see the smoke. It may only smoke when you are traveling at high speeds and disperses in the wind.
