Plymouth Sundance

Maybe this will help. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?parttype=600&ptset=A&searchfor=Radiator+Fan+Control+Relay

THIS LINK DOES NOT WORK ANYMORE

He is a character in "Butch Casidy and the Sundance Kid:

4.5 quarts

== == You take it to the dealer and pay the piper. This repair requires you to take off the exhaust manifold and tear down into the engine. That means retorking to spec, gaskets, the whole mess. Read the posts and see how many do-it-yourselfers ended up with an exhaust smell (leak) after the repair with the heater on. Unfortunately it will set you back an honest $750. Uhk. Just another stupid design by GM! I will buy foreign next time!

Em ht stands for emergecy heat.

The firing order on a Plymouth Sundance is 1, 3, 4, 2. The number one cylinder is closest to the firewall.

you need a 10 amp (red) fuse for the radio. the fuse is located in the top right fuse corner of the fuse panel. it is marked radio underneath the fuse.

first thing that you do is make sure your engine is warm. turn it off and unhook the temperature sensor located on the block just below your #1 and #2 sparkplugs. then loosen the bolt holding your distributor down. Now hook your timing light sensor to your #1 sparkplug wire (there may be a number on your distributor cap if not it's the one to your far left)and the power clips to their positive and negative battery posts.Turn your car back on and point the timing light at the timing gauge(located on the bellhousing right at the top of the tranny)if you see your timing mark turn your distributer (slowly) to your disired setting (if you can't see your timing mark make sure it's not dirty or it's way out of time) when done turn car off and tighten the distributer down (careful not to turn it) and re-attach temp sensor

4.5 quarts

It's going to ruin a day. Especially if you are by yourself. Figure 4 - 5 hours of actual "on you back" swinging wrenches.

It would greatly help to know what engine you have and if it has air conditioning (working or not)

Go to autozone.com, select your make/model and they offer online service manuals. In there, you will find diagrams for serpentine belt routing.

The Fuel pump is inside the gas tank and only a qualified professional should attempt replacing it.

First the fuel tank needs to be emptied completely. Then the tank needs to be dropped. Then using a brass bar and a brass hammer, so as NOT to cause sparks there is a round plug with the fuel line coming into the tank, using the bar and hammer tap the plug open there you will find the fuel pump. The fuel filter is outside of the tank follow the line from the tanks and replace the filter also.

GOOD LUCK! This is VERY dangerous because there need to be good ventilation and the car should be lifted off the ground by at least a foot with chocks.

Go to www.installdr.com its where i got the diagram for my 92 sundance

It should be the round chrome thing in your fuse box, it just pulls out and the new one plugs in.

It is under the hood, near the battery.

The codes on a 1994 Sundance are 2 digit codes. Code 3 is not correct.

before trying to replace the ignition switch try spraying a small amount of lubricant into the keyhole and insert key and wiggle it in the switch to see if the keepers are stuck. if it works it could save a lot of time and money

Possible ground issue at the taillights.

as you face the engine look on the right side of the trans. housing, there should be a pc. of black foam rubber stuffed into a slot pull that out and you will see the timing scale.

On a '94 Sundance with a 2.5L non-turbo engine like mine, there is a plastic cover at the left (your left as you are looking at it) of the valve cover. The timing belt is under that. The belt goes down and around the crankshaft. In order to change or adjust the belt, you have to first undo the negative battery terminal, then jack up the front passenger side and remove the wheel and belt splash guard. Remove all of the accessory belts (power steering, a/c, and water pump/alternator belt). Take the a/c compressor off (don't disconnect the coolant lines, just move the compressor out of the way. Then you have to unbolt the alternator and remove the aluminum bracket that the compressor and alternator were bolted to. After that, undo the five bolts on the crankshaft pulley. This should allow you to remove the plastic timing belt covers, both lower and upper. This will expose the timing belt. In order to remove or adjust the belt, make sure you have all the timing marks lined up. You can use the bolt on the end of the crankshaft sprocket and a wrench to turn the engine over until all the timing marks (camshaft sprocket, secondary sprocket and flywheel marks) are in the correct position with the #1 piston at TDC. Loosen the tensioner and adjust the belt to the correct position. If you are going to replace it, remove the tensioner and slide the belt off the sprockets. This may take some jimmying. To get the belt off and a new one on, you need to undo the bolts that fasten the engine mount to the frame. After the bolts are removed, place a jack under the oil pan and lift up the engine until you have enough space to get the belt around the engine mount. Put the new belt on, making sure it is lined up properly. Even if it is one tooth off, it could do permanent damage to your engine or at the very least, won't allow the engine to start. Use the timing marks to get the valve and ignition timing correct. You can check to make sure the valves aren't interfering with the pistons by removing the spark plugs to allow the engine to rotate freely and using the bolt on the end of the crankshaft to turn the engine two full revolutions. If you feel resistance, then recheck how the belt is lined up. Once you have the correct timing, put your car back together and make sure it runs properly. Consult a repair manual and make sure you know what you're doing before you begin. Here is a good resource I've found for automotive repair : http://arrc.epnet.com/autoasp/index.asp?sid=12354172&uid=s6255977.remote.autorefctr

the back of the tank is even with the rear wheels, the main portion is between rear wheels and back doors.

If there isn't much gas left in the tank (like, a quarter of a tank) then you can jack the front of the car up in the air before you undo the bolts. With the gas tipped back, you might be able to change the pump out without spilling anything. Keep a bucket handy though!

Old age and vibration, I'd guess. All of mine were out too. The PONTIAC on the trunk lid wouldn't light up. I replaced the bulbs and now it does. For what it's worth, it's Way Cool when the PONTIAC does light up!