Pontiac Firebird

chiltons of course!! If you want a FREE ONE goto www.autozone.com

A 1997 Pontiac Firebird WS6 has the LT1 350 V8 inside. With the WS6 package, it was rated at 305HP. Without the WS6 package, it was rated at 285HP.

16 city, 24 highway, depends largely on how u drive it. check out fuel economy.gov

I think it's considered a performance car.

It depends on the size of the motor!! 231ci to 403ci..............

Depending on how big of a mess you want---otherwise you need to drain the coolant--easiest way is to pull the lower radiator hose off and then reinstall.

You need to do is remove the 2 bolts where the egr tube goes over the upper radiator hose/t-stat housing--you may want to get 2 new gaskets for the egr tube--sometimes they are ok and sometimes they are not. Remove the 2 bolts that attach the upper t-stat housing to the intake. NOTE: pay attention--bolts are different length--remove old t-stat and gasket, clean surface with small puty knife/razor blade and replace with new. Side note!!!! I like using factory t-stats in case they have small vent holes etc but that is your choice.

Refilling and bleedinig system of air

Refill radiator with 50/50 mix of GM approved coolant and distilled water if possible--refill and loosen bleeded screw on top of t-stat housing---fill till coolant comes out bleeder.. start car and let run for a minute or 2 and then recheck coolant level. Be careful coolant might have pressure when you take off the rad. cap to recheck level. Check for leaks and then let car run to ensure there is not an air pocket if there is you will know the car will start to overheat----if it does start to over heat shut car off and let cool then redo engine fill procedure.

NOTE THIS IS FOR THE 3.8L V-6 ENGINE.

check the fuses in the fuse box first

Yes it will, It should already have a small block Chevy in it , if it's a V8.

A large number of problems seem to arise when shade-tree mechanics remove ALL of the plug wires, and then attempt to re-install them from scratch on a motor with the crankshaft and/or valve-train in an unknown position. This is often the case, for example, after a rebuild. First, you need to know for sure which cylinder is used to TIME the motor. Don't presume that you know. Most Pontiac engines use cylinder #1, for example. Also be sure that you know which cylinder is which. Typically cylinders are numbered from front to back, in the order in which the connecting rods are sequenced on the crankshaft. In the case of V6, or V8 engines, this typically puts all of the odd-numbered cylinders on one side of the block, and all even-numbered cylinders on the other. 1) Remove the spark plug from the cylinder used to time the motor. (Reminder: Pontiac = #1 2) Have a friend slowly rotate the engine by hand using a ratchet or a breaker bar and a socket on the front end of the crankshaft. Be sure to rotate the engine in its normal direction of operation. Now is a good time to observe the distributor rotor to see which direction it is rotating (clockwise or counter-clockwise) as the engine is being turned. Here comes the most important step -- the step where most errors occur. 3) Place your thumb over the now-empty spark plug hole as you observe the timing mark on the balancer. AS THE MARK APPROACHES TOP DEAD CENTER (TDC), you may or may not observe pressure building under your thumb. If you do observe pressure, the cylinder is on the compression stroke, and you should stop the engine with the timing mark at about 5 degrees BEFORE TDC. If you do not observe pressure under your thumb, it's because the cylinder is on the exhaust stroke, and the exhaust valve is open. Rotate the crankshaft one entire additional turn, until the timing mark again approaches TDC. You should feel pressure now. Many shade-tree mechanics simply forget that the crankshaft goes around TWICE for every combustion cycle in a given cylinder. They assume that the spark-plug should fire every time the timing mark is at TDC -- when in fact this is only true HALF of the time. 4) Now that you've verified that the timing cylinder is on its compression stroke, and you've set the crankshaft to 5 degrees BTDC, identify the distributor cap TERMINAL at which the distributor ROTOR is currently pointing. Rotate the distributor slightly (as if you were adjusting timing) if necessary to get the rotor pointing DIRECTLY at any given terminal. 5) Attach the timing cylinder's spark plug wire to the terminal identified in Step 4. (Reminder again: Pontiac = #1 Continue attaching plug wires in the direction around the distributor cap that you identified in Step #2 above. Follow the firing order that is found in your service manual, and which is sometimes cast or stamped into either the intake manifold or a valve cover. Most Pontiac V8s use 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 The first wire (after the engine was properly positioned in Step #3) goes from the #1 cylinder to the distributor cap terminal at which the rotor is currently pointing. The next cap terminal CLOCKWISE from there gets wired to the #8 cylinder. The next one to the #4 cylinder, etc. 6) The engine should now be close enough so as to be able to be started, and the timing adjusted using conventional methods. fireing orders as follows-2.5L Engine 1-3-4-2 / 2.8L Engine 1-2-3-4-5-6 3.1L Engine 1-2-3-4-5-6 Both the 2.8L& 3.1L engines front left facing the engine -lft side 1-3-5 Rhtsid 2-4-6 on the plugs.

just buy a remote start for it -- trust me -- it will save you grief in the long run. Your key is likely not being read because of the amount of use in the ignition, the remote start simulates the resistor in your key to the security system so it can remote start the car. I just use the remote start when the key wont work.

The order in the distributor will be 18436572 in a counter clockwise rotation. see link

It is located in between the upper and lower intake manifolds by your fuel rod

No, the leading edge is diferant on both cars, you could change the entire front end and have a 2000 T/A or even a ram-air.

1. Lift the hinged nut cover flap at the base of the wiper arm.Spray lubricant over the nut.
2. Lower the nut cover and let the lubricant sit for two to three minutes. This will allow the lubricant to penetrate and loosen the nut so you will not damage the threads when you remove it.
3. Lift the nut cover again and using a small wrench, unloosen and remove the nut. Make sure you do not lose the nut because you will need it to tighten the new arm in place.
4. Firmly grip the wiper arm near the base and pull straight off the threaded stud. Make sure you are not pulling at an angle because this will damage the threads on the stud arm. If the arm will not come off easily, try spraying with a little more lubricant.

you will need to use 90 wt oil. if it has a posi,add a posi additive.

The fuel pump is located inside the gas tank and is part of an assebly along with the fuel sending unit. The pump can only be replaced with the tank removed from the vehicle. This involves removing the rear half of the exhaust system, the cross bracing members and the protective shield under the tank. The rear differential must be disconnected from the shock absorbers and lowered to allow clearance for the fuel tank removal. This is a time consuming task and has presents several challenges for the do it your selfer, starting with draining the existing fuel from the tank (anti theft measures make siphoning all but impossible). Also, although it sounds simple, removal of the exhaust system isn't easy since a torch is usually required and you more than likely have a strong fuel presence in your work area due to the nature of the project. This is best left for a professional or experienced mechanic.

no. you cannot put a turbo 350 in a formula because its not computer controled like a 4l60

You don't know how to shift

Passanger side of engine, comes up between spark plug #2 and #4 (first and second spark plugs from the front on the passanger side.

There will be a hole in the valley pan under the intake manifold. This takes a rubber grommet that the PCV goes into. Then the hose runs to either the large port on the carb, or there should also be a port in the intake runner that it can hook to.

It could be the fuse, the bulb is burned out, or the wires are cut or corroded. It may also be that the connection is loose.

pull off the cover behind the engine and see if the prongs are rusted. there are symptoms involved with driving such as the engine hesitating, irregular running and surging. the best way is probably to check visually.

If you are referring to the 2nd gear button, that helps by starting the car out in rain or slippery conditions.

I believe it was 67 for the GTO.I believe it was 66. the 400 came out in 67

Icm ignition control module

bad valve or head gasket

bad injector