Pontiac Le Mans

According to my best knowledge the '67 Tempest LeMans was available with:

400/360 HP Ram Air V8 Engine

428/360 HP 4bbl V8 Engine

428h.o./376hp 4bbl V8 Engine

230/265HP Inline 6 Engine

Tempest 326/250 HP V8 Engine (<- the default engine)

Tempest 326/285 HP 4bbl (<-differs from the above only in the higher compression #141 heads. [again best of my knowledge])

on the harmonic balancer.

By more specific on this question.

FIRST THING: UNHOOK YOUR BATTERY Remove the negative cable from it's post.The starter moror is usually attached by 2 or 3 bolts. The bolts thread into the block. Mark all the wires going to the starter. There should be one long lead coming from the battery, and then some wires going to your starter solenoid which usually comes from the firewall down to the terminals on the starter. Take a photo or make a drawing of how and where each wire is hooked up. Unhook the wires and then begin to turn the bolts left ( left is loosen - right is tighten) and begine by breaking eaqch bolt loose. Then slowly begin to back the bolts out. Make sure when the bolts come out that you know which bolt came from what hole. The bolts maybe of different lengths. As the last bolt is taken out be prepared to catch the starter, it is heavy. To replace the starter just put the new one back against the block. There may be some shims that accompany your new starter. They are used so that the gears at the back on the starter mesh correctly with the gears on the flywheel. You may need to use one, some or none. Shimming the starter gives the gears to flywheel their correct "play". When the solenoid kicks the starter motor gears over against the flywheel, if you have too much the gears may not catch on the gears of the flywheel. Too little play and the gear will go in too deep into the flywheel.

I can tell you that it is on the back side of the fuse panel which is by your left knee when you sit in the car. Unfortunately, I don't know exactly which relay, as there are at least 6 under there, and my manuals don't give the exact location. I would love to know if you figure it out.

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.....counter clockwise.

The marks are on the timing belt cover,and on the pulley for the crank.

Gets decent gas mileage, 18-24mpg. Plus the stock motor has some amazing power and a top speed 140mphish.

According to the Haynes manual, it's 1-3-4-2

IF IT IS THE SAME AS A 1989 HERE IT GOES. FIRST JACK UP THE FRONT OF THE CAR & TAKE OFF THE LF WHEEL.THERE SHOULD BE A CAP IN THE SIDE OF THE TRANSMISSION THAT LOOKS LIKE IT HAS A BIG NUT IN THE MIDDLE. THIS CAP TAKES A 36 MM SOCKET TO GET IT OFF.NEXT THERE IS A SNAP RING BEHIND THE CAP THAT COMES OUT. THEN A 10MM TORX HEADED BOLT THAT GOES INTO THE INPUT SHAFT OF THE TRANS. THEN THERE IS A SPECIAL TOOL MADE BY KENT MOORE THAT SCREWS INTO THE INPUT SHAFT THAT SHOULD BE USED WITH A SLIDE HAMMER TO PULL OUT THE SHAFT FAR ENOUGH TO GET THE CLUTCH OUT. THE SHAFT WILL NOT COME ALL THE WAY OUT OF THE TRANS.THEN TAKE OFF THE INSPECTION COVER OFF THE BOTTOM OF THE TRANS SO YOU CAN SEE THE CLUTCH.A SET OF 3 SPECIAL CLIPS FROM KENT MOORE ARE NEEDED TO HOLD THE CLUTCH DISC IN THE DEPRESSED POSITION BEFORE YOU UNBOLT THE CLUTCH DISC. USE THE CLUTCH PEDAL TO HELP PUT THE CLIPS ON. TO GET CLIPS OFF & INSTALL ON NEW PRESSURE PLATE YOU NEED ACCESS TO A HYDRAULIC PRESS.THE CLUCH CABLE WILL PROBABLY NEED ADJUSTED BUT I FORGET THE SPEC FOR THE SLACK IN THE PEDAL. THIS REPAIR CAN BE DOWN WITH THE PROPER PARTS WITHOUT REMOVING THE TRANSMISSION. I BOUGHT THESE TOOLS THRU SNAP ON YEARS AGO == Answer MAYBE TRY EBAY TO BUY A FACTORY SHOP MANUAL CHEAP. I GOT ONE FOR TEN DOLLARS THAT WAY. THERE SHOULD BE AN ARROW ON CLUTCH DISC & DOT ON FLYWHEEL TO LINE UP WHEN INSTALLING PRESSURE PLATE. THE LONG PART OF THE DISC HUB GOES TOWARDS THE TRANS

Somewhere in the area of 250HP Gross @ 4400 RPM, 350 FtPDS @ 2400

The problem with the 77 block is that the only motor mount holes are for the later style cars. There are two ways to put that block in the car. First, most of the aftermarket Pontiac parts suppliers sell an adapter kit. It's like $75 if I remember correctly. If you have access to a welder you can fab your own. The engine in the 67 sits farther forward. You'd want to mount a nice thick strip of steel on the lower two bolt holes of the 77 block. Then drill and tap new holes. The easiest way to get the measurements would be to find a 69-76 5 hole block and take your measurements from it.

On my 1988, it is one of the many relays on the back side of the fuse panel, which is near your left knee when sitting in the driver's seat. It is not one of the relays on the obvious front side of the fuse box. It is one of the middle 2 relays on the back side that you can only see once you stuff your head under there.

Keep in mind that if your fuel pump is not running, it could be because the fuel pump switch is breaking the connection. The fuel pump switch is on the side of the block below the generator and is designed to keep the car from starting when there is no oil pressure. It could be that the car is out of oil or the switch is bad.

It is located on the harmonic balancer.

Yes....they are the same. My info says 55-62, 63-67 and 68-79

You can transplant most any motor into your Pontiac, which had a gm block originally by the way.

250 cubic inch, 6 cylinder, 175-215-230 horsepower engines 350 cubic inch, 8 cylinder, 265-330 horsepower enginees

The relay is located on the back side of the fuse box. You have to crawl under the driver's side steering wheel in order to see the relays. The relay in the BLUE socket is it.

Go to the parts store and buy a pack of 4...that usually come with the special key to install/remove them. Take off one lug nut from each wheel. Replace with the wheel lock.

fold your rear seat forward. there will be a flap in the carpet, flip it up. there should be a round plastic cap under the flap of carpet. remove the cap. you will then see the top of the gas tank. there is a fuel pump mounting plate. first remove the fuel line and unplug the pump. then unbolt the plate and lift it up and out of the tank. be careful because the fuel pump strainer may have gas in it and it will get all over when you pull the plate out. swap out the fuel pump and reinstal in the reverse order.

look on the passenger side under the car by the rocker panel. you should see metal canister the diameter of a silver dollar with a nut on each end & a metal line screwed into it. if real rusted spray some rust penetrant on it to help loosen up the nut. be careful cause you can break those steel lines. been the done that if you do break them the parts stores sell 12 to 15 inch long repair piece.

The price would greatly depend on where you get the watch from. If you were to go to a deartment store such as Sears, you would pay much more that if you bought it online at Amazon or Ebay.

It is on the accumulator on the front passenger corner of the engine compartment; but, if you have to ask this question you probably are not knowledgable enough to charge the AC system. The cheap refill kit from a parts store often just wastes your money and maybe keeps you sort of cool for a week to a month. You always have to add oil and freon, but be careful if you add too much oil it can damage the compressor just like not having enough oil. Most of the time you need to find the leak, often it is the compressor and replace/fix it. Change the orfice tube, which has an inline filter built in, vacumm pump the system down, and recharge. That is why it cost so much to service the AC.

On my '90 lemans, you have to remove two large headed black flathead screws on the panel below the steering column. That whole panel is hindged at the bottom and will flip down exposing the fuse box. Hope that helps.

on mine is screwed into the radiator about half way down on the right hand side when in front of the car has two wires coming out of it. If you're having overheating problems it could be the thermostat. Mine went out about 3 months ago and i replaced that relay first aswell made no difference, hope that helps