Saturn S-Series

The Quad drivers are located inside the car's ECU/PCM also know as the "Computer" or "Brain". The only way to replace them is to replace the ECU/PCM. The ECU/PCM is located: FRONT SEATING AREA, PASSENGER SIDE, UNDER DASH, MOUNTED BEHIND GLOVE COMPARTMENT CAVITY. The ECU/PCM should be easy to obtained from any of your local autoparts stores. Be aware that most cars in junkyards are there for a reason, they don't run, and I would not suggest replacing the ECU/PCM with one from a junkyard. If you do not correct the reason the quad drivers failed in the first place you may damage your new ECU/PCM. Typically an electrical short in the wiring associated with the quad drivers is at fault. Check a shop manual to determine how to check the wiring associated with the quad drivers. If the Quad driver module sets a code, this usually means there is a fault in whatever is being controlled, not the quad driver itself. For example, some Saturns would set a Quad driver fault when the EGR valve stuck open. Replacing the Quad driver would not solve this in any way. If you are not completely sure what set the code, take your vehicle to a professional (or waste a lot of money replacing good parts). == == I got a code 26 on my 1992 Buick Century, one of four codes designated Quad Driver Module. I was unable to find anything saying which components that code is associated with, but I read they are each associated with as many as four (hence "quad" electronic components, generally solenoids such as the one metering the aforementioned EGR, plus the TCC (torque converter clutch--which is also tied in somehow with the brake light switch), EEC (evaporative emissions control purge solenoid, and maybe the radiator fan relay and I suppose by association the temperature sensor. Anyway, I just checked all of those things that I had (no EGR on this car) or could locate for anything obviously wrong, and found it: The two wires to the EEC purge solenoid were cut! Looked like someone had intentionally snipped them off with a pair of wire cutters. It's still a mystery to me how they got that way, but I reconnected them and -- no check engine light.

The front struts are held in by (3) nuts under the hood and (2) bolts that hold them to the wheel bearing knuckles. If you have access to a 1/2" pnuematic impact wrench the removal process will take about 5 minutes per strut. You will need a strut spring compression tool to compress the spring and remove the strut mount. I recommend replacing the strut mounts when you replace the struts as the are a wear item. Removing the nut that hold the strut to the strut mount will require a box wrench and a 6mm Allen wrench, put the box wrench on the nut and use the Allen wrench to turn the strut rod. This is also easily removed by the 1/2" pnuematic impact wrench.

Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. You will need to have a wheel alignment performed when you are done as the cast/camber of you tires will be off and will cause severe tire wear.

Good Luck

theres 2 fuse panels 1 under the hood and the 2nd on the passenger beside the radio

This is a difficult question without knowing what kind of vehicle it is. I would start by attempting to remove the steering wheel. This may also be impossible if the wheel is locked. Then I would attempt to take off the cover(s) from the steering column and see if its possible to remove any of the switches. It may be possible to unlock the steering wheel once you are behind it. There will be a small metal rod ( the steering lock ) that moves up and down while turning the key and inserts into the steering wheel. There may be a pin or a part that screws onto the locking cylinder ( your key switch ) that holds it in that may also be accessible once the steering column cover(s) have been removed. If none of these things work I would call a locksmith to see if he can pick the lock as long as you didn't break your key off in the cylinder. As a last resort you may try drilling the cylinder out. This may take a few attempts and you may damage something in the recess where the cylinder rests. Another method I've heard of is to use a dent puller and try to yank it out - expect collateral damage if you attempt this.

Chain

Yes! both the radiator and the hoses are swapable :) Just besure that if your vehicle has a automatic transmission the radiator has the automatic transmission cooling line fittings.

If your SURE that the cables and grounds are good,than the starter solenoid located piggyback ( I believe on this model)on the starter needs to be checked. Many times the starter/soleoid assembly is replaced as a unit. What happens is after years of service, the solenoid develops a burnt area that prohibits the connection. Even if you get it started, this will keep happening with increased frequentcy.

I had those symptoms and finally had the dealer look at it. the problem was with my cooling system and temp sensor. the car was running hotter than the temp sensor was indicating and the cooling system was not working properly.

Pick up a Haynes repair manual for the vehicle. They have wiring schematics in them.

To replace the clutch, the engine and transmission must be separated. Some prefer to remove the engine, some prefer to remove the transmission, some remove the entire assembly and separate the engine and transmission once they are out of the vehicle.

After the engine and transmission are separated, remove the pressure plate clutch and flywheel, have the flywheel resurfaced by a qualified machine shop. Replace the pilot bearing, clutch disk and pressure plate and use an alignment tool to make certain that the clutch disk is aligned between the flywheel and pressure plate. Then reassemble everything.

There is no cable but vehicle speed is picked up from the sensor located on the trans. by the right drive axle...two wires

A more accurate description of the problem along with if its an automatic or manual transmission is needed.

The ccp sensor is located on the back of the engine above the starter motor. Just follow the vacuum hose off the firewall to the ccp solenoid. ! 10 mm bolt holds it on. Has two hoses and electrical connector attached

How do you KNOW the system is fully charged. The 'low pressure switch' detects the level of the coolant charge. If the refrigerant charge is below a specific pressure, the switch turns off to protect the compressor.

If you don't have gauges you can't determine if the refrigerant is low. There can still be enough refrigerant to "hiss" when you release the valve at the test port, but not enough to engage the pressure switch.

get a new shifter tower from a wreaker

i will give you base information on the panel removal. First remove all attachments. the door handle, pull bars, window controls, switches,or crank, and possibility the door lock. The is tool specifically designed to remove the clip/pins that hold the panel. If it is possible borrow or buy one. They are not expensive. Place the edge under the edge of the panel at the bottom back corner. Only a little. Just enough to locate the pins that hold the panel. When located slip the 'V" of the tool so it places the pin in the middle and lift gently. Repeat this all away around the panel. There are not usually any on the top of the panel. It is not a good idea to use a screw driver for this. Been there done that, broke the pins. It is possible to break the pins even with the tool. The pins are ususally plastic and they get weak with age. If they do break replace them. parts store usually cheap. Ease the panel off the door, and put it somewhere, where it will not be damaged. Reinstallation is the reverse. Good things to do if you can, use a digital camera and take pictures at each step of the process. They can be useful when you put stuff back together. Place any parts you take off into plastic bags and mark what it is. Probably won't end up with any extra parts. hope it helps. duboff

no. the only purpose of the filter is to filter. it should be replaced about every 20k miles. I suppose if you havent replaced it, and its completely full, it is allowing debris to pass through and get stuck in the solenoids or valve body.

yes, and no. You will have to change over all the sensors, use all the sensors from the 1994 block and head since the computer is OBD1, and the sensors on the 1999 are OBD2 connectors. the 1994 uses an extra coolant temp sensor for fan opperaton, where the 1999 does not, you will have to reloacate the fan switch, or use brass adaptors to run 2 fittings into the single port on the head. and you will always have a problem with an EGR trouble code. the DOHC moves much more air, and the SOHC computer in the car cannot set the EGR position correctly, the motor will run fine, but the EGR will be disabled. and last, you will have to change most of the exhaust, the DOHC runs a larger pipe than the SOHC.

13.2 gallons

I believe this should say "wont".

There can be many reasons. The Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (2-wire) is one of the main components to address which was resin tipped until 2002 for all s-series. This sensor would crack from the coolant sending false data to the PCM. This sensor is vital to many systems of the car including air/fuel mixtures. This also will stop the car going into Closed loop which will automatically fail the car. The new sensor is $17.50 at the dealer and brass tipped.

Other things to check are the EGR valve which puts exhuast gases into the engine to be reburned again. Cleaning this will help it do its job.

The O2 sensor in the exhuast manifold is also part of the emission detection and if its not working properly can cause the car to fail. New ones can be bought at your local autostore and be spliced in.

Exact cause of failure will direct you to the part or parts that may be defective

ALSO:

The PCV can be a real annoyance. Make sure you use a OEM PCV from Saturn and not an aftermarket valve as others have notice that the aftermarket product doesn't function properly. (It's only a $5 part)